I am new to the forum. I tried to find some info on the subject but came up empty. anyway. I just bought a C5 manual with 147K on odometer or as far as I know. I plan on getting a look at the timing chain in the near future because the seller couldn't tell me if it was ever replaced. That said. If I have to. Can I replace the chain with the engine still in the car? Is it easier to just pull the engine? I don't have an engine stand right now or access to a lift. How far should I take it if I have to pull engine? Oil pump? Clutch?

 

Yes it can be done with the engine in the car. The steering rack needs to come off or at a minimum be moved as you can not get the harmonic balancer off with it in the way. Get a new after market balancer and ARP bolt while you are at it. Stock balancers are prone to coming apart and the factory bolt is Torque To Yield (TTY) and not reusable. BTW...the engine comes out from the bottom but some have been able to get it out from the top.

 

If your engine STILL has the OEM ORIGIONAL dampener I would say you are VERY LUCKY as "v6turbo87" stated, they tend to fall apart in short order.

See if your dampener is wobbling when the engine is running.

Another frequently failed front cover part is the dampener oil seal. Mine got hard and cut into the dampener sealing surface causing a very nasty oil leak.

You will need a new timing chain if it is still the OEM LS-1 original chain.. What year is the car?

Replace the chain with an LS2 or better aftermarket chain. You should also invest in a timing chain dampener. If your block is not factory drilled for one, there is a kit that allows you to easily incorporate one.

OIL PUMP. YES.. I would say install a good melling replacement pump.

The dampener is an INTERFEARANCE FIT and very tightly pressed on to the crank. Getting the dampener OFF is a real treat! It does NOT have a KEY WAY!!
You have to have a dampener /removal / install tool to get it OFF & BACK on the crank without doing damage to the crank. You also need a front cover install tool to PROPERLY CENTER the cover on to the block to prevent front cover oil seal failure.


Steering Rack removal is another FUN treat. You have to MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE that the front wheels are straight ahead and the steering wheel is prevented from rotating BEFORE you disconnect the rack from the steering shaft!!!!!! If you rotate the steering wheel after it is disconnected from the rack, you will misalign the Steering Wheel Position Sensor and the EBTCM will NOT be happy!

Long gone are the ole CHEVY Small Block gen 1-2 days...


LET THE FUN BEGIN!

Bill

 

It's a 99'. Oh boy, that's a lot to take on. Not that I can't handle it. Sounds like I will have a winter project. The problem is I don't know if the chain, dampener or anything has been replaced at this point. I don't think I have access to a lift to pull the motor from the bottom. So my options are short. And I can't throw another few grand at it right now for a shop to do it. Am I right to say that there isn't a way to inspect he chain without pulling the dampener? Which means taking off the belts, accessories, rack, alternator?, power steering pump?, water pump...etc, etc?

 

no way to inspect without pulling the balancer, plenty of diy threads for the job, not that difficult with the proper tools, you will need a couple specialty tools to make it easier.

 

Everything Bill said is correct.

I would however use a C5R timing chain instead of an LS2 chain, as the C5R is a much better piece. I have seen LS2 chains stretch and break more often than I like. I would also upgrade to an ATI balancer as opposed to an OEM dampener.
No need to pull the motor, as others have stated, just move the steering rack out of the way.

Its hard to say if you should proactively replace the timing chain. If it was me, there is no way I would go through all of that work without putting a cam in the car while I am there The downside to that is then you are looking at new valve springs and pushrods. It would also be a good idea to change out the lifters, with that many miles. At that point you are pulling the cylinder heads.

You see how this can escalate into a bigger build very quickly.

If you are worried about the chain that much, you can just do the chain, melling oil pump, ATI balancer/bolt with a new front cover and main seal gasket and be done with it. It is fairly time consuming but not difficult work.

 

Thanks for all the help BTW.

I am mostly worried about the chain since that one thing seems to be the one that will frag the motor the worst. Can I pull the cam while the engine is still in the car. Seems to long for that. If so that's a possibility to do rest. Iteration on engine in car. Replacing top end shouldn't be a huge problem since I have most of the tools already. But since the engine is pulled from the bottom and needs a lift. The bottom pieces of the engine I can't do right now. Ive pulled an engine or two in my time "from the top". At that point are we talking about machining the heads?

Thanks again.

side note...... is it normal for the windows to clunk when bottoming out?
still getting used to corvette issue items. Other "sports car is an 86' 300zx. little more refined but the vette is a BEAST. Love It!

 

you can do everything you mentioned without pulling the engine, the radiator has to come out, the a/c condenser can stay but its easier if you remove that also.
my windows clunk at times
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
This diy will give you a good idea of whats involved, however the procedure mentioned for reinstalling the balancer will get you stripped crank threads, you need the proper install tool for that.

 

ls1howto is a great reference!

IF you ever decide to pull the engine, it is easy to do out the top, as well.

I have pulled mine from the top more times than Id like to admit.
The basic idea is to remove/disconnect the exhaust, drop the drivetrain (diff/torque tube) down and back (just like doing a clutch install)...which is easier than it sounds, and the engine is held in by two motor mount bolts which are accessible from under the car.

Of course there are more details than that but that's the basic idea. I can have my motor out in about 2-3 hours...depends on how much I feel like taking off before I pull it. I always pull the intake manifold, throttle body, front accessories, starter and exhaust manifolds off before I pull the motor. I also like to unbolt the AC compressor and just leave it in the car so I don't have to recharge the AC.

 

WELL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

There IS a way to view the chain if you really need to but, its limited access.

Remove the intake manifold and the valve valley cover. At the front of the engine block under the cover you can see the cam gear and some of the chain.

If you beg/borrow or purchase a simpe boar scope you can see more.

The LS1 OEM chain is NO LONGER available and is repled by the LS2 chain.

Here is what the difference looks like :

LS2 Chain installed/ Old LS1/6 chain in hand:





You can see the opening in the front of the block in this pic:





Valley Covers:





Ive used this method to inspect the cam gear when one of my buddys thought his gear cam loose because he forgot to add LOCKTITE to the cam gear bolts.
YEP, it was loose!

Bill