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I think I'll pull the seat back out tomorrow, tighten the clevises until they bind again, and see if the rock is still present. If that fixes the rocking, I might just leave it there since I never adjust the height anyway.
Replaced both of the clevises in the driver's seat today. When you go to do this, use a slightly larger drill bit than provided. I ended up snapping off the supplied screw in the threaded rod because the hole was too tight. After losing a chunk of my life extracting the screw, things went fairly well after that.
Unfortunately, those one of the clevises was clearly on its way out, this hasn't fixed the issue. There's still an abnormal amount of play if I lean back into my seat. The one side of track I noted at the beginning of the thread also still has play in it, but I'm not positive it's the culprit since the amount of play there feels considerably less than what I'm getting when I actually sit in the seat.
I kind of wonder if I didn't tighten the clevises enough and they're allowing this play, but they were binding up when I tested the seat functions with them tighter. I'm nearly ready to cut my losses and start looking at aftermarket seats.
Just curious, have you already replaced the OE rubber "bushings" in the track mechanism, with the Teflon pieces?
Just curious, have you already replaced the OE rubber "bushings" in the track mechanism, with the Teflon pieces?
Yes, that's the first thing I did, and they were absolutely destroyed. That fixed the front to back sliding rock I was getting on hard stops.
This rocking sensation is more of a lean. Like you lean slightly back in your dining room chair. Basically the seat base and back lean slightly as one unit while the bottom part of the track is stationary. It doesn't take much force, I feel it every time I get in or out, and most of the time when I depress the clutch.
Yes, that's the first thing I did, and they were absolutely destroyed. That fixed the front to back sliding rock I was getting on hard stops.
This rocking sensation is more of a lean. Like you lean slightly back in your dining room chair. Basically the seat base and back lean slightly as one unit while the bottom part of the track is stationary. It doesn't take much force, I feel it every time I get in or out, and most of the time when I depress the clutch.
Same here!
And yes, I think it's most prevalent in stick shift cars. We push against the seat, while depressing the clutch, probably 4-5 times, for every time we might push against the brake pedal.
I don't like to do things "half assed", so I ordered the clevis set for both seats, despite the fact that probably 75% of the time, I'm in the car by myself. When I went back, and looked at the other video posted, showing the other repair kit that C&S sells, now I'm contemplating another $260-270. That brings the tally up to around $400 for seat "fixes".....
Pulled the seat and tightened the clevises up today. I tightened them to the point where I couldn't feel any play in them moving them around by hand, definitely tighter than instructed. The motor still operates, but it's definitely having a little more trouble actuating them. Unfortunately, no change.
Perhaps some of the rivets in the actuator arms are worn out? Nothing felt loose when I tried to shake it around with the seat out though.
I'm still suspicious of those 2 points where the seat track meets the silver cross tubes that rotate around. It looks like it's only secured with 2 locking pins that go into a keyway on the rod. I haven't been brave enough to pull them to see what I can see yet, but I can't imagine what could be allowing it to wobble unless that keyway has somehow become hogged out, and at that point, there's pretty much nothing I can do.
After mulling it over, for a couple of days, I did order the second "repair kit" that C&S offers. Should be here in a couple of days, and the weather forecast looks better for next week, so I'm hoping the garage warms up, and I can attack the seats. I hated to spend that much money, but I want the seats to operate properly, and don't want to have to A)take the seats out a second time, to install the second kit, and B)hopefully, make the seats "bulletproof".....
Pulled the seat and tightened the clevises up today. I tightened them to the point where I couldn't feel any play in them moving them around by hand, definitely tighter than instructed. The motor still operates, but it's definitely having a little more trouble actuating them. Unfortunately, no change.
Perhaps some of the rivets in the actuator arms are worn out? Nothing felt loose when I tried to shake it around with the seat out though.
I'm still suspicious of those 2 points where the seat track meets the silver cross tubes that rotate around. It looks like it's only secured with 2 locking pins that go into a keyway on the rod. I haven't been brave enough to pull them to see what I can see yet, but I can't imagine what could be allowing it to wobble unless that keyway has somehow become hogged out, and at that point, there's pretty much nothing I can do.
I feel in the same case. i did not change the clevises as they look ok, but the rock motion in increasing day after day. Did you find anything on the rod link? Did you solve the issue?
thanks in advance,
TCFS
I haven't messed with it since, but yes, still an issue. I've been meaning to pull the seat and bolt it down to a couple saw horses or something so I can get under it, move it around, and see what's giving.
I had the rubber bushings replaced with nylon washers today in a Base C6. There still is a slight rocking however. Apparently the channel has been disfigured from lack of grease and the cheap rubber stops. My seat rock during the first year with less than 4,000 miles driven. So I do have 44,000 now and some 11 yrs later. Guess I should of addressed this earlier. I just kept the seat on the floor to inhibit the rocking.
Those crossbars rotate I think. This is what works the seat height adjustment. I imagine there's some worn out bearing or metal bushing inside those circled areas in the picture I attached above. Maybe DetroitPlac could take a look at his power track since it's out of his car currently?
I had a shop put the nylon washers in the seat adjuster screws in the seat tracks for my power driver seat, and still had the rocking. I took the seat out and put it on my workbench and took 30 seconds to find the problem.
It was not clevises, adjuster screws, ears, or any of this other crap. The 2 rotating rods that are pinned onto the seat track assembly slightly hogged out the seat track frame, allowing the seat track to rock slightly. The 2 tension pins that hold the track on remind me of those used in gunsmithing...I used my Lyman gunsmithing punch to push the pins out (they just push straight through). The seat track slides right off. Then, I put a thin stainless steel washer on each rotating rod to fill the gap. (I had the washers).
Then, I put the seat track back on the rods, and re-inserted the tension pins, using my punch and small brass hammer. Tap very carefully and it's easy.
Make sure the square-ended flexible rod circled in yellow is reinstalled correctly before pinning the track back in place. Problem solved. Tight as a drum.
Complexity: 3 out of 10. Cost: Zero. Time: 45 minutes, including taking the seat out.
I had a shop put the nylon washers in the seat adjuster screws in the seat tracks for my power driver seat, and still had the rocking. I took the seat out and put it on my workbench and took 30 seconds to find the problem.
It was not clevises, adjuster screws, ears, or any of this other crap. The 2 rotating rods that are pinned onto the seat track assembly slightly hogged out the seat track frame, allowing the seat track to rock slightly. The 2 tension pins that hold the track on remind me of those used in gunsmithing...I used my Lyman gunsmithing punch to push the pins out (they just push straight through). The seat track slides right off. Then, I put a thin stainless steel washer on each rotating rod to fill the gap. (I had the washers).
Then, I put the seat track back on the rods, and re-inserted the tension pins, using my punch and small brass hammer. Tap very carefully and it's easy.
Make sure the square-ended flexible rod circled in yellow is reinstalled correctly before pinning the track back in place. Problem solved. Tight as a drum.
Complexity: 3 out of 10. Cost: Zero. Time: 45 minutes, including taking the seat out.
I did this over the weekend. I could have used I slightly thicker washer, but it took A TON of slop out of the assembly. Amazing how much better the seat feels now that it's solid.
Did your fix work long term? Hard to believe sideways slop in those rods would allow rocking front to back.
i had mine seat out today, and the flanges are in perfect shape, the clevises look fine, but my seat rocks when I press the clutch. Already replaced the 4 bushings.
Do you recall what size washers you used? Is one per rod sufficient, or should I try two?
03-17-2018, 05:26 PM
