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Its possible you have some KR and got knocked into the lower octane timing table, its possible you did have more timing at the track when it was cooler, its possible something else is wrong, misfire etc. Unforunately with these cars you need some kind of scan tool to see whats going on - otherwise its just a guess. You really need to find someone to borrow atap or just buy it if you plan on doing more mods. If it was really hot on the dyno and the IAT was really up there I could believe 19 degrees of timing.
Wouldnt it be nice to see this on a 1/8 mile pass instad of guessing.
Yup sure would be nice...for around $200 it seems like a pretty cool little tool...only I don't know how to read that stuf...hence don't know what to look for. Does it come with some kind of manual that you use that tells you what to look for or do you have to wing it and figure it out for yourself?
Carlos I will definetly check it out, I know there is more power in your car.
I have seen low timing and knock retard caused by things such as under drive pulleys, header leaks, or bad O2 sensors. I'm sure the guys will get everything straightened out of it, and then I will tune it again.
:yesnod:
Thanks Jeremy...as far as taking it to another shop...I don't think I would need to take it to another shop to have the tuning checked...I have 100% confidence in Jeremy and LGM and know that they always come through for their customers...Jeremy hey I heard there's a TSB out for the '98 gears messing up...maybe mine are bad too and I can get some 3.73's or 3.90's thown in there when I take it on by... :D :yesnod: :D :yesnod: :D
No offense but did you turn off traction control? I've forgotten to do that once in a while. :)
Dannggg...uhhh...yea I turned it off...almost forgot the first run...but caught myself. There were a couple of guys out there with me that said I was launching bad axx but about halfway down the track it looked like it was slowing down...but had her floored...who knows...
Yup sure would be nice...for around $200 it seems like a pretty cool little tool...only I don't know how to read that stuf...hence don't know what to look for. Does it come with some kind of manual that you use that tells you what to look for or do you have to wing it and figure it out for yourself?
There is somewhat of a manual but it just tells you how to use the software and what some things do. As far as how to use the info that would vary as to what you are trying to accomplish. There is a lot of info on internet forums on what everything means (most of it relating to what you want anyhow) but a basic understanding of whats going on with the fuel/spark/PCM is needed.
its a pain to figure out everything at first, but its also pretty cool when you can look at a blast and see exactly whats going on :)
If I was pushing 330rwhp with 19 degrees of timing what would I be getting with 28-29 degrees of timing?
Thats kind of hard to say, especially with your cam. I would guess you are losing 10-15rwhp but thats just a guess. I never ran one of these cars on a dyno with 19 degrees of timing...
Pardon me for chiming in but you seem to be leaving about up to 1.5 tenths AT THE LINE. Focus on HOOKING UP AND LAUNCHING. I am only dynoing about 370 RWHP because I downsized my cam set up for a blower (.562 lift) my 60' times AVERAGE 1.745 sec. but that is a factor of a 3.73 rearend, 3,000 RPM stall convertor, stage IV FLP trans., fully adjustable Vinci-High Performance fully adjustable shocks, disconnected front sway bar, 5" skinny's on the front, and Mickey Thompson ET/Streets 11 " on the back. Running 12 - 15 lbs. of air, and launching at 1200 or LESS RPM. I can run 10 to 13 times in a row and see the 60' times fall between 1.720 and 1.765 which is pretty consistant. I am thinking of going to a 4,000 to 4,500 RPM stall to get the 60' times down to about 1.650 to 1.695.
Try to lauch with little or no tire spin. You have to spend all the time needed to be able to launch that way!