When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well my dang CEL came on again after about a half hour of driving the car today.. I will get more info about this matter once my replacement cluster gets here.. Or maybe ill run to pep boys later and have them get my codes.. I am putting in grill screens right now and must get back to that.. Will post more once I get codes...
The DiC is now working, Just got my replacement cluster and all is good... All buttons seem to function well...Just did a quick test... I have to pull it out and get all my bulbs in the same spot as my old one... I am not sure how to use this yet but will know shortly..
CEL went off again, Gonna clear all codes and see if CEL comes back on
Keep us posted on moving the bulbs. I still havent done it on mines and wasnt sure what it actually solves by just moving it from one spot to another..othet than having the light not on when it is in the wrong spot
All bulbs moved to the original position as my old cluster.. there was only one out of place...All others were in same spot.. Very E-z to do... The mileage on new used cluster is 138000 my real mileage on car is 123000... I looked at moving that chip with mileage from one circuit board to another, I don't think I am going to attempt it... That's not for me... Just cleared all codes no CEL on at the time... So we will see what comes back if any... Ill post back shortly..
Thanks again Guys,
Ant...
Last edited by ant-knee470; 02-20-2018 at 06:59 PM.
Was it just the passenger airbag light moved from the speedometer gauge side to the tachometer side?
Not sure what it was for, I just had to swap the one bulb from my old cluster to the new cluster.. Now that I think about all I probably had to do was switch the power supply from the new used one to my old one and it probably would have fixed my old one since it seemed to be a power issue.... I just might try that as a test..
Ant...
Last edited by ant-knee470; 02-21-2018 at 05:10 PM.
I am going to clean the ground packs under the hood mounted on the frame.. From what I have been seeing a lot of problems are caused from corrosion in the ground packs.. I might just hack the connecters off and solder all together then put a better ground then that pack.. looking at the diagrams for the o2 sensors the grounds are in those ground packs. The knock sensor grounds are probably in there as well..
[QUOTE=8VETTE7;1596645864]Actually the knock sensors do not have a unique ground wire. They are grounded by contact to the engine block and the engine block then uses G105 and G107 to ground to the frame.
Here are a couple links about grounds on the C5 that should help:
However, since your fuel pump obviously runs and the fuel pump relay is grounded by G105 and the ICM for all 8 cylinders is grounded by G107, I suggest that the knock sensor problem is NOT grounds.[/QUOTE
Should I swap out the knock sensors?? I think I have to pull the manifold for the rear one, am I right??.. Or can I get to it without removing manifold? either way is fine with me but if I don't have to pull it I'd rather not..
Since your O2 sensors are not functioning for what ever reason, I would get them operational again, then clear ALL the codes, then drive the car and when you return from the drive pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you need to use the reset button to clear any messages in the DIC and then pull codes a normal. Any codes that have returned are the ones that need attention.
This way if the lack of operational O2 sensors was the cause of the knock sensor issue you will not have spent any money on unneeded parts. If the knock sensor codes return, then you need to replace them.
Ok, I just replaced the front o2 sensors with cheap after market sensors, That could be the problem..
I am going to check them for power and clean up the grounds then take it from there, I am hoping it is the 02 sensors throwing off the knock sensors.. I don't really want to pull the manifold but I will if needed... No biggie...
Actually the knock sensors do not have a unique ground wire. They are grounded by contact to the engine block and the engine block then uses G105 and G107 to ground to the frame.
Here are a couple links about grounds on the C5 that should help:
However, since your fuel pump obviously runs and the fuel pump relay is grounded by G105 and the ICM for all 8 cylinders is grounded by G107, I suggest that the knock sensor problem is NOT grounds.
KNOCK SENSORS need TWO things to work properly!!!! They have to have FULL 12 VDC Battery voltage available to the heater circuit & a proper heater circuit ground.
As you can see by the schematic the heaters are supplied by the IGNITION SWITCH BUS (HOT in RUN) buss. and grounded thru the Splice Pack (SP-122) That splice pack has presented its self as a bad problem in some C5s when the battery has leaked sometime in the past.
Its located on the fire wall tapped to the main wiring harness behind the battery. Pop off the top of the splice pack and see how the connections look. Measure the splice pack ground wire to chassis ground.
There are TWO test points on TOP of all fuses. Measure the OXYSEN fuse test points to chassis ground and see if there is FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE available.
When the ignition switch is on, the O2 Sensors (BODY) will get very warm/hot) Check and see if they are getting the proper heater current. If they are not warm/hot, they will NOT work properly.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 02-22-2018 at 12:45 PM.
The first 2 PCM codes say there is no activity from the knock sensors. I would tend to think this is not the heater, but it might be.
I've read a couple of cases lately where aftermarket O2 sensors did not have the negative side of the O2 sensor element connected to the case of the sensor. This causes the O2 sensor signal to not be read correctly by the PCM and appear to have no activity.
In the diagram you posted, the tan/white wire is shown tied to the case of the sensor and grounded. The grounding is the exhaust system.
Easy to check. Just ohmmeter the tan/white wire to the exhaust and see if there is a connection. If there isn't, you either have to ground the tan/white wire or replace the sensors again.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 02-22-2018 at 02:52 PM.
I opened up both ground packs on the frame located at the front of the car.. Both of the packs looked great, No corrosion and super clean.. I cleaned them anyway and put them back together.. I checked the fuse(s) all are good... Fuse # 15 has power with key on position..
Checked power at the plugs for the o2 sensors and I have power there.. Just checked one side, Didn't have time to do the other side but I will tomorrow.. If the other side shows power I am thinking cause I tried to save a buck with these after market o2 sensors ( Which I know better).. I am thinking I need to replace the o2 sensors that I just did, Clear the codes and drive the car and see what codes comes back... Does this sound good?
Thanks again people,
Ant....
Last edited by ant-knee470; 02-22-2018 at 07:24 PM.
The first 2 PCM codes say there is no activity from the knock sensors. I would tend to think this is not the heater, but it might be.
I've read a couple of cases lately where aftermarket O2 sensors did not have the negative side of the O2 sensor element connected to the case of the sensor. This causes the O2 sensor signal to not be read correctly by the PCM and appear to have no activity.
In the diagram you posted, the tan/white wire is shown tied to the case of the sensor and grounded. The grounding is the exhaust system.
Easy to check. Just ohmmeter the tan/white wire to the exhaust and see if there is a connection. If there isn't, you either have to ground the tan/white wire or replace the sensors again.
I am thinking it is these cheap o2 sensors, I am mad at myself for that.. They got me again.. I'm sending them back.. LOL.. I never have luck with after market crap.. I know better...
Just ordered 2 Denso o2 Sensors,$90.00 for the pair ( My cheap ones were $26.00 for the pair, LOL ) the densos will be here this afternoon... I will swap them out then clear the codes and run/drive the car and see if the codes come back. we go from there..
I hope not...HEHE
Thanks guys,
Ant...
Last edited by ant-knee470; 02-23-2018 at 12:18 PM.
OK,,,,,,,,, I have answered this post with several replys and every time I do, I have to ask myself,
WHER DOES "ANT-KNEE" come from??????????
Bill
Hello Bill,
I appreciate all the help.. Can't thank ya enough...
Ant-Knee Comes from Anthony.
Well, Good news, I think...
Swapped out el cheepo o2 sensors with my new denso o2 sensors and CEL is off.. Went for a quick ride and it did not come back on... I am going out tonight so that will be the test.. But I think that did it.. The little ride I went on would have normally triggered it..
Thanks to all,
Ant...
Last edited by ant-knee470; 02-23-2018 at 05:24 PM.
Continuity check the bad ones. If the continuity between the sensor negative wire and the case doesn't exist then post up a warning for that brand so others know they don't work and why.
Continuity check the bad ones. If the continuity between the sensor negative wire and the case doesn't exist then post up a warning for that brand so others know they don't work and why.
Ok, Will do...CEL came back on I just got my new codes but the o2 sensor code is gone.. I would say the El - cheepo o2 sensors were not good for my car or probably any other vette..
02-17-2018, 11:43 AM
Just got my replacement cluster and all is good... All buttons seem to function well...Just did a quick test... I have to pull it out and get all my bulbs in the same spot as my old one... I am not sure how to use this yet but will know shortly..
I have answered this post with several replys and every time I do, I have to ask myself, 
