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I know torque spec is 22ft lbs. How important is it for this to be spot on? The reason I ask is because I was going to check some pushrods and the only torque wrench I have is one of the Pittsburg brand ones from Harbor Freight. Im not knocking these I have heard they are fairly accurate but I'm sure it is prob 1-2ft lbs off I would guess. Thanks guys
I know torque spec is 22ft lbs. How important is it for this to be spot on? The reason I ask is because I was going to check some pushrods and the only torque wrench I have is one of the Pittsburg brand ones from Harbor Freight. Im not knocking these I have heard they are fairly accurate but I'm sure it is prob 1-2ft lbs off I would guess. Thanks guys
I've done this several times with my cheap HF 3/8" torque wrench, never a problem. Just make sure the valves are closed; that's the most important part. If you are using the 1/2" HF torque wrench that goes up to 150 ft*lb, I'd be a little more hesitant, because I don't trust that one to be as accurate in the 22 ft*lb range.
I've done this several times with my cheap HF 3/8" torque wrench, never a problem. Just make sure the valves are closed; that's the most important part. If you are using the 1/2" HF torque wrench that goes up to 150 ft*lb, I'd be a little more hesitant, because I don't trust that one to be as accurate in the 22 ft*lb range.
Dumb question, how do you know that the valves are closed? I just pulled two pushrods on each side to check, the two I pulled were ones that had the least amount of tension on the springs.... I assume that means the valves are closed, right? Just took the rocker off, pulled the pushrod, then tightened back down....
Last edited by bwill03z; Mar 23, 2018 at 05:30 PM.
Reason: Na
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I just go down the line and tighten them, unless you have really stiff or dual springs I wouldn't worry about the orientation... just tighten the bolts slowly and when you feel them bottom out get out the torque wrench
Not a expert but dont you have to torque on the base circle of the cam also?
On the older SBCs, you had to set the lifter preload, so yes, you had to have the camshaft, for the cylinder you were working on, at it's base. The LS engines do not have, at least as OE, adjustable valve trains, so all you're doing is tightening the trunnion's retaining bolt to a specific torque value.
Here's the GM procedure. Tightening is done on the base circle. Torque is one of the most inaccurate ways to measure bolt preload, some refer to bolt preload as stretch. Making measurements with the lifter off the base circle just makes the method even more inaccurate. This is one of the reasons ARP spent so much money and effort developing the lube for their fasteners, it provides more consistent preload when using torque as the basis.
Rocker arm bolt torque accuracy
