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It’s an improvement I like it but to be honest I feel somethings missing. That might be my desperate need to be blown away each and every time I take a step further in each endeavor I take part in. Unrealistic I know.
It’s an improvement I like it but to be honest I feel somethings missing. That might be my desperate need to be blown away each and every time I take a step further in each endeavor I take part in. Unrealistic I know.
Doesn't look like it's much lower than stock? If at all.
Doesn't look like it's much lower than stock? If at all.
So you share my disappointment.. I gotta start doing all my own work, which would require a whole other investment in tools etc etc, and a house is more important. Defenetly needs to go back for a tweak. Me saying I’m disappointed is putting it lightly.
Off topic, the silver is getting to me. Never was a big fan of silver. Black or red as far as sports car go but silver just doesn’t do it for me.
What's the difference between Eibach's bolts and the OE bolts?
Good question. The car is noticeably lower in person. The gaps in the wheel wells, front and back are substantially less and the back of the car closing the trunk it sits much lower. I was simply expecting more for some reason. Seems like a lot of work and money for nothing, unless once it’s tweaked and dropped to the fullest extent. The stance doesn’t even seem right.... it could have been much better.
If someone knows of a guy who works on corvettes exclusively in South Jersey, let me know. It’s time to enlist the right mechanic to do things right the first time. No worst feeling than upgrading your ride without the benefit and only the expense. Shitty
Last edited by C5 for life; May 24, 2018 at 06:31 PM.
I think to get where you want to be, you're right in that you need a set of tools and a low profile floor jack. Get the car up, remove the front wheels and turn the bolts all the way up into the spring, which will in turn,
lowers the car. In the rear do the same and raise the car, remove the rear wheels and adjust the nuts, which should be on top, if they are not. Basically the longer you make the bolt, the lower the car. For safety, always leave at least a couple of threads showing. Once you readjust things you need to drive the car 5 or so miles to settle the suspension. With things adjusted properly you will be able to almost get two fingers in between the top of the tire and top lip of the wheel well. You also need to have the rear a bit higher to leave a small amount of rake in the chassis. It looks to me as though your guy set them close to the stock settings. The Eibach bolts do work to lower the C5 as i have used them multiple times. To go any lower, you would need to go to coilovers. Hope this helps.
I think to get where you want to be, you're right in that you need a set of tools and a low profile floor jack. Get the car up, remove the front wheels and turn the bolts all the way up into the spring, which will in turn,
lowers the car. In the rear do the same and raise the car, remove the rear wheels and adjust the nuts, which should be on top, if they are not. Basically the longer you make the bolt, the lower the car. For safety, always leave at least a couple of threads showing. Once you readjust things you need to drive the car 5 or so miles to settle the suspension. With things adjusted properly you will be able to almost get two fingers in between the top of the tire and top lip of the wheel well. You also need to have the rear a bit higher to leave a small amount of rake in the chassis. It looks to me as though your guy set them close to the stock settings. The Eibach bolts do work to lower the C5 as i have used them multiple times. To go any lower, you would need to go to coilovers. Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
What's the difference between Eibach's bolts and the OE bolts?
The difference is the Eibach front bolts do not have the tall rubber snubbers and instead, have only a delrin cap which allow an additional inch and a half of drop. The Eibach rear bolts are longer than the stock bolt and have shorter bushings on them as well which allows you to go lower than the stock bolts. Looking at them side by side you can clearly see the difference. Google both set ups and you can see what I'm talking about.
Last edited by MAD Matt; May 24, 2018 at 08:33 PM.
I think to get where you want to be, you're right in that you need a set of tools and a low profile floor jack. Get the car up, remove the front wheels and turn the bolts all the way up into the spring, which will in turn,
lowers the car. In the rear do the same and raise the car, remove the rear wheels and adjust the nuts, which should be on top, if they are not. Basically the longer you make the bolt, the lower the car. For safety, always leave at least a couple of threads showing. Once you readjust things you need to drive the car 5 or so miles to settle the suspension. With things adjusted properly you will be able to almost get two fingers in between the top of the tire and top lip of the wheel well. You also need to have the rear a bit higher to leave a small amount of rake in the chassis. It looks to me as though your guy set them close to the stock settings. The Eibach bolts do work to lower the C5 as i have used them multiple times. To go any lower, you would need to go to coilovers. Hope this helps.
I agree with Mad Matt's suggestion. Your car should be setting
pretty low with the bolts you are using. You can always go with
coil overs or racing springs if you want to drag the bumpers.
Good luck.
I think to get where you want to be, you're right in that you need a set of tools and a low profile floor jack. Get the car up, remove the front wheels and turn the bolts all the way up into the spring, which will in turn,
lowers the car. In the rear do the same and raise the car, remove the rear wheels and adjust the nuts, which should be on top, if they are not. Basically the longer you make the bolt, the lower the car. For safety, always leave at least a couple of threads showing. Once you readjust things you need to drive the car 5 or so miles to settle the suspension. With things adjusted properly you will be able to almost get two fingers in between the top of the tire and top lip of the wheel well. You also need to have the rear a bit higher to leave a small amount of rake in the chassis. It looks to me as though your guy set them close to the stock settings. The Eibach bolts do work to lower the C5 as i have used them multiple times. To go any lower, you would need to go to coilovers. Hope this helps.
First order of business tomorrow is getting a floor jack to remedy this issue myself. And when I see how much thread is left, which I’m sure is plenty, I’m gonna go ask the dude who installed it if he needs glasses. That was the final straw using the average mechanic to put hands on my car. My own fault so I’ll own it.
Just gotta get through this header/X-pipe install without losing my ****.
Make sure that you get your stock bolts back from the guy that did the work. That way you can make sure he did the swap and you have the stock stuff in case you ever sell the car, you can return it back to stock. Also, the factory front bolts come with the spring and are not available separatley.
Last edited by MAD Matt; May 25, 2018 at 10:51 AM.
The difference is the Eibach front bolts do not have the tall rubber snubbers and instead, have only a delrin cap which allow an additional inch and a half of drop. The Eibach rear bolts are longer than the stock bolt and have shorter bushings on them as well which allows you to go lower than the stock bolts. Looking at them side by side you can clearly see the difference. Google both set ups and you can see what I'm talking about.
OK, there used to be an outfit called 'Hardbar', that sold the Delrin tipped spring bolts. I don't now if they're still around.
With regard to the "tall rubber snubbers" you refer to, look at my car. It's lowered on the stock bolts, "tall rubber snubbers" and all. And I still have some additional ability to lower the car more, if I wanted to. The rear bolts achieve a ride height difference with their length the bushings don't figure into it. On my car, in the rear, I have the OE bolts, adjusted accordingly, with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, "just because"...…
Correct me if I’m wrong ( no I don’t have them, I forgot to get them after the install ) Aren’t the stock front lowering bolts pretty much the same thing just less the spacer of bushing ?
Last edited by C5 for life; May 25, 2018 at 07:34 PM.
Yes, those look like they are turned up all the way. This should have lowered it by, at minimum, at least an inch and a half. How much have you driven it since then as it may take a bit more time to settle. Look at Eibachs site, they show 0"-2" of ride height adjustability and i have always seen that and more. You are also correct in that the difference is in the thickness from the stock rubber compared to the polyurethane. Did you take any measurements before you started ? Your car has to be at least that inch and a half lower, provided your stock bolts had already been turned to their lowest setting. That would mean that the previous owner had lowered it all the way on stock bolts and that is where you started. Does you car have the correct / factory size tires on it. The front tires should measure somewhere in about 25.5" in diameter.
Last edited by MAD Matt; May 25, 2018 at 07:55 PM.
Yes, those look like they are turned up all the way. This should have lowered it by, at minimum, at least an inch and a half. How much have you driven it since then as it may take a bit more time to settle. Look at Eibachs site, they show 0"-2" of ride height adjustability and i have always seen that and more. You are also correct in that the difference is in the thickness from the stock rubber compared to the polyurethane. Did you take any measurements before you started ? Your car has to be at least that inch and a half lower, provided your stock bolts had already been turned to their lowest setting. That would mean that the previous owner had lowered it all the way on stock bolts and that is where you started. Does you car have the correct / factory size tires on it. The front tires should measure somewhere in about 25.5" in diameter.
Fronts measure 25 1/4 inch. Your logic on the previous owner lowering it to its lowest copacity and me associating the change, from the change I was expecting has some merit. And... sucks
Live and learn I guess
Last edited by C5 for life; May 25, 2018 at 08:07 PM.
With 295/35/18 in the back and 245/45/17 in the front, being that lowering bolts I’m assuming are an industry standard when lowering these cars. Why does my cars height and take look nothing like many of the dropped cars I’ve seen?
I wonder if your shocks are stock...or have they been replaced?
I recently did the new C6 Z06 shock/Cultrag install (from stock shocks) and lowered the front as far as possible on the stock bolts. Unfortunately, I didn't take measurements of the car prior to this and can only go by pics and memory.
To my dismay, the car doesn't seem lowered at all and while speaking with my mechanic he made an interesting observation.
The old shocks were nearly 20 years old and over time will loose their pressure. When he removed them they had minimal to no pressure. With new fully pressurized shocks the car's stance/height will be affected.
Even though my car isn't as low as I wish, I'm super happy with the ride and handling with the C6 Z06 shocks!
My car has been changed to the C6 wheel/tire combo (18/19) vs stock (17/18).
Last edited by MI-CORVETTE; May 25, 2018 at 11:24 PM.
Reason: added info
I wonder if your shocks are stock...or have they been replaced?
I recently did the new C6 Z06 shock/Cultrag install (from stock shocks) and lowered the front as far as possible on the stock bolts. Unfortunately, I didn't take measurements of the car prior to this and can only go by pics and memory.
To my dismay, the car doesn't seem lowered at all and while speaking with my mechanic he made an interesting observation.
The old shocks were nearly 20 years old and over time will loose their pressure. When he removed them they had minimal to no pressure. With new fully pressurized shocks the car's stance/height will be affected.
Even though my car isn't as low as I wish, I'm super happy with the ride and handling with the C6 Z06 shocks!
My car has been changed to the C6 wheel/tire combo (18/19) vs stock (17/18).
First things first, your car looks great buddy. Nice work. I also worked with Gene at Cultrag. Yes, they were replaced. He suggested a combo set up that was nothing short of amazing as far as drivability improvement. C6Z51 Sway bars with Z06 shocks. Unfortunately the Eibach lowering bolts fiasco counter acted against the comfort from that upgrade because the Z06 shocks don’t work well with the lowering bolts. I had the opportunity to get the Bilsteins B8 sport’s that were designed for the lowering bolt’s but once again my budget did not permit it and now I’m paying for it. I won’t pass them up again.
I guess i can live with the current height of the car but the B8’s are now added to the list of essentials. Since the B8’s are shorter in length for the sake of them not bottoming out do you think the body would sit lower as well ? What shocks are you running ?
Last edited by C5 for life; May 26, 2018 at 12:59 AM.
Lowered with Eiebach’s lowering bolts.
