When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Does anyone have the procedure for bleeding a C5 clutch? I know buy a manual.
It seems fine when I first take the Z06 out. Then after it warms up and I zip
it through a few gears my clutch pedal seems to lose a little less than half
of its travel and it feels spongy. It doesn't feel like it is slipping
though. Does this sound like I need to bleed it out? I really don't want to
subject my car to the "dealer" for this, any help is appreciated. Thank You
Please post your results if you do this.. Seems that most of the people who attempt this get bad results... Maybe only the failures post their stories?
I will do that, I also received the following from another list. Number 1 is the same as posted here. And 2 seems like a quick fix, used by dealers. I have a rattling exhust spring that needs fixed. I will probably do #1 sometime this week. I will post results. Cya
________________________________________ _____________
Bleed it or have dealer do it under warrenty.2 methods for the procedure.
1. drop right exhaust and drive line cover--either have someone pump petal or
use a hand held vacuum gun.Tape up hands-use gloves have first aid kit nearby,
2--take off clutch cylinder cover,remove fluid and refill with fresh Ford
brake fluid-depress clutch petal at least 30 times and watch for any
bubbles(air raises to the top).This is method most dealer use before
replacing clutch assembly under warrenty.There is not a TSB out yet on clutch
replacement just a tech service bulletin.
I did it by the book and the dang pedal still stuck to the floor.
I'll find out soon if the new CenterForce helps the situation.
You have to pull the pedal up sometimes when you bleed it. After you pull it up, give it a couple of pumps then bleed it again. Repeat for a few times(depending if you want to flush all of the fluid), then you should be fine.
I have done this three times now with no problems. The bleed bolt at the top of the housing is a pita! Especially if you have big arms/hands. Be ready to get covered in brake fluid!
Since you have done this three time, do you think it possible to route a hose to the bottom so that bleeding could become less of a chore?
Good question. I really think GM could have made it alot easier for us. Here are some pics below. The only way I see is to thread a 4AN braided line, using a fitting of course, where the bleed bolt is screwed in(see below). Then attach a bleed setup on the end of the line. You really should not have to bleed them that often. The only thing that really makes it a chore is if you have to remove headers.
After you complete the bleed, you can always remove the fluid in the reservoir and refill it every month or so. More often if you drive the car harder. (drag race) Get a syringe from a auto parts store that is used to mix gas and oil for lawn equipment. It works much better than the turkey baster.
C5-vert great pics. I have done the bleed as per the link above and now I change the fluid out of the reservoir.
I did it by the book and the dang pedal still stuck to the floor.
I'll find out soon if the new CenterForce helps the situation.
You have to pull the pedal up sometimes when you bleed it. After you pull it up, give it a couple of pumps then bleed it again. Repeat for a few times(depending if you want to flush all of the fluid), then you should be fine.
I have done this three times now with no problems. The bleed bolt at the top of the housing is a pita! Especially if you have big arms/hands. Be ready to get covered in brake fluid!
I didn't mean while bleeding it (although it did stick to the floor and I did what you described) I meant sticking to the floor while in between T2 & T3 at Road America you hit a quick shift @ about 115 mph before downshifting and breaking.
I didn't mean while bleeding it (although it did stick to the floor and I did what you described) I meant sticking to the floor while in between T2 & T3 at Road America you hit a quick shift @ about 115 mph before downshifting and breaking.
Sorry!
I may make up a test line out of braided stainless in a couple of weeks. Would anyone be willing to test it out? This would allow bleeding of the clutch w/o removing anything.
Has anyone considered pulling the carpet back and drilling a hole in the tunnel? It would be tricky locating the right spot to drill. Seems like it would be possible though.
You've probably heard all this before, but since nobody has mentioned it in this thread, I figured it was worth a couple of minutes. For one, the nasty looking clutch fluid is normal according to GM and does not need to be replaced. There are several threads on the C5 Perf forum with more on this. As for the pedal sticking to the floor, I have a Star Spec 3 clutch and have had the exact same problem. I talked to my tuner and he tells me that every clutch out there, including the Z06 have had this problem. He mentioned that they were about to send back about $15k worth of failures of a well known dual disc clutch (same problem). Apparently, you are much more likely to experience it if you have added HP and if you do alot of hard shifting at high rpms i.e. drag racing and/or running road courses. According to my tuner, there is no clear reason for the failure. Sometimes a replacement does the trick, other times there are subsequent problems. I'm planning on getting mine replaced and hopefully that will do it. I will post results. Stay tuned!
Kind of funny, I was having the problems but after the Spec Star III carbon clutch w/ findanza aluminum flywheel it has been perfect at the track. Not one hint of stickyness...
Hey Y-Body I have several more pics where that came from :D