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I think you need to give a little more information on your setup as the answers depend on the type of block you're using.
An LQ9 is a Gen III iron 6.0 and retains the old style bosses in the valley that hold the knock sensors. The LS3 is a true Gen IV with nothing in the valley, so you'd need to drill and tap the side of that block to accept Gen III knock sensors. By your description it seems like you're using an LQ9 bottom end with LS3 heads, in which case you don't need to mess with reluctor wheels or knock sensors. However, if using an LS3 intake manifold (and LS3 injectors) you'll need to adapt the fuel injector wiring harness of the C5 to the newer style injector (EV1 to EV6, forgot which one is which).
I just installed a Gen IV L92 (6.2) converted to LS3 specs, into my C5.
The setup is coming out of an C6, and was built to run in a C6. It has a dragonslayer crank with a 58T wheel and corresponding cam gear, so i know i need the LPE crank box. The previous owner ran an LS3 intake and valley cover on it which is why planned on using LS3 stuff. He also had the knocks in the side of the black so i was just going to keep doign that. If I can throw my LS6 stuff on and sen/camd it that would my my life so much easier lol. The engine will be here Friday so i can look it over even more. Im just trying to be ahead of the ball a little on this.
Just an FYI.. If it were ME, I would install ARP Head studs vise using the Torque to Yield Head Bolts. The Head Studs are SOOOOOO MUCH better installation wise and reliability wise. Less chance of damaging the block head bolt threads.
NOTE. The block head bolt holes are blind holes. They MUST be perfectly clean and dry before installing anything into the block.
Just an FYI.. If it were ME, I would install ARP Head studs vise using the Torque to Yield Head Bolts. The Head Studs are SOOOOOO MUCH better installation wise and reliability wise. Less chance of damaging the block head bolt threads.
NOTE. The block head bolt holes are blind holes. They MUST be perfectly clean and dry before installing anything into the block.
BC
I agree studs are way better than bolts, but for now the motor is assembled so ill leave them be. I plan on running around with my V3 for a while and then going the TT route and at that point ill pull the motor back out, freshen everything up and put studs in places that need them.