Electrical help
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 44
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Electrical help
im at my ropes end with this problem. it first started with my dash cluster with the fuel guage and the temp gauge in the same day, tuurn on the car gauges swoop then the fuel gooes all the way to e and the temp gauge pegs red line. the next day no power windows. the next day no power locks. now no ignition, did the vats pypass st its not the ignition and i can start the car jumping the pink and purple wire in the vats module on the passangers side and it runs fine. the cluster says check gauges and reduced engine power and the codes all say no comm. the car just started doing it nothing was done to the car i live in cal so no water has gotton to the car. anyone ever have this happen
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
LOL! You really need to read and post your DTC. If we have that DTC info, we can get you off the ropes! 
You are having one or more of the below listed issues.. If you post the DTCs we can send you down the proper repair path:
Bad Ignition Switch
Corrupted Serial Data Buss
Use the internal DIC DTC code reading routine and post your DTCs., If there are a TON of old ones, don't be afraid of clearing ALL of them and posting what comes back.
Its best to post TECH stuff in the tech section.
Bill
You are having one or more of the below listed issues.. If you post the DTCs we can send you down the proper repair path:
Bad Ignition Switch
Corrupted Serial Data Buss
Use the internal DIC DTC code reading routine and post your DTCs., If there are a TON of old ones, don't be afraid of clearing ALL of them and posting what comes back.
Its best to post TECH stuff in the tech section.
Bill
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2011
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okay jumped the purple and pink wire under passagers dash and started the car let it run shut if off and then got codes from the DIC and same thing 10-pcm, 28-tcs ,40 bcm ,58- sdm,60-ipc,80-radio,99-hvac,AO-ldcm,AI-rdcmand bo-rfa all say no comm. nothing was changed or wored on and its not the ignition ive tryed a new one and yes
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
To the LEFT of the BCM are two thin connectors. Find the connector with FOUR WIRES. Pop the top shorting plug off the top of that connector and see if you have different symptoms. You will still have NO COMMS with te LDCM, RDCM and seat control module SCM. BUt, that would be expected as you removed the serial data buss for those modules. That would tell you that the LDCM, RDCM and or SCM are causig you issues..
Bill
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Something is causing you serial data buss issues. Could be the BCM its self. The BCM is the central control for ALL of the other modules. The router so to speak. If it is corrupted or something is corrupting it, none of the modules will communicate. Try this:
Disconnect the battery, Remove the BCM. Remove the Board from the metal box. Carefully insect the board.. Look for any corrosion or damaged components. If you find corrosion, remove it with alcohol and a tooth brush.
NOTE!! Be careful the board is ESD SENSITIVE.
Report back your findings..
Disconnect the battery, Remove the BCM. Remove the Board from the metal box. Carefully insect the board.. Look for any corrosion or damaged components. If you find corrosion, remove it with alcohol and a tooth brush.
NOTE!! Be careful the board is ESD SENSITIVE.
Report back your findings..
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Something is causing you serial data buss issues. Could be the BCM its self. The BCM is the central control for ALL of the other modules. The router so to speak. If it is corrupted or something is corrupting it, none of the modules will communicate. Try this:
Disconnect the battery, Remove the BCM. Remove the Board from the metal box. Carefully insect the board.. Look for any corrosion or damaged components. If you find corrosion, remove it with alcohol and a tooth brush.
NOTE!! Be careful the board is ESD SENSITIVE.
Report back your findings..
Disconnect the battery, Remove the BCM. Remove the Board from the metal box. Carefully insect the board.. Look for any corrosion or damaged components. If you find corrosion, remove it with alcohol and a tooth brush.
NOTE!! Be careful the board is ESD SENSITIVE.
Report back your findings..
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Blindly testing a connector with a TEST LIGHT, you most likely touched the serial data buss wire by mistake. REMEMBER, All those modules are connected together by ONE WIRE through the BCM. If you put a voltage, signal or resistance on that serial data wire you freak out the BCM and BROTHER, it can cause some crazy things to happen.
Using a test light on the C5 has very limited usefulness. It has its place in testing but NOT for checking to see if you have proper battery voltage on a specific circuit. A test light draws some significant current where as a proper Multimeter does not.
Bill
Using a test light on the C5 has very limited usefulness. It has its place in testing but NOT for checking to see if you have proper battery voltage on a specific circuit. A test light draws some significant current where as a proper Multimeter does not.
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Blindly testing a connector with a TEST LIGHT, you most likely touched the serial data buss wire by mistake. REMEMBER, All those modules are connected together by ONE WIRE through the BCM. If you put a voltage, signal or resistance on that serial data wire you freak out the BCM and BROTHER, it can cause some crazy things to happen.
Using a test light on the C5 has very limited usefulness. It has its place in testing but NOT for checking to see if you have proper battery voltage on a specific circuit. A test light draws some significant current where as a proper Multimeter does not.
Bill
Using a test light on the C5 has very limited usefulness. It has its place in testing but NOT for checking to see if you have proper battery voltage on a specific circuit. A test light draws some significant current where as a proper Multimeter does not.
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
In my very first reply, I spoke of a bad ignition switch. SOMEWHERE, you have a poor/bad connection. Putting a higher current drawing device on the power circuit for those modules could have caused the poor connection to conduct enough current to temporarily allow the circuit to work properly. Be it a defective ignition switch or a bad connector male to female pin connection. Right now its working properly. Someday in the future it may fail again. It may not fail exactly the same way but it will fail. Now you have a little more knowledge and talent to resolve it.
Keep an eye out for weird symptoms, when they occur and what they are. Let us know if we cn help.
Bill
Keep an eye out for weird symptoms, when they occur and what they are. Let us know if we cn help.
Bill