steering rack replacement





Doing HPDE and having the F-45 suspension are completely opposite in terms of logic.
I use to have a 98 Coupe MN-6 with the BASE FE-1 suspension & the F-45 Real Time Dampening RPO. It absolutely SUCKED at handling. I didn't realize how bad it sucked until I drove a C5 Corvette with an actual dedicated factory performance suspension. ZO6 & Z51.
I realize that you are trying to compensate for poor daily drive road conditions where you live. TRUST ME, They CANT be any worse than NY City and New England after a bad winter. I have an 02 Z and the nasty roads that we have don't bother my car too much.
I have helped numerous people improve their C5 handling and have resolved my own 2002 ZO6 handling issues with a excellent outcome.
If I had your car and wanted to improve that " SQUIRRELY" feeling, here is what I would do:
Up grade the shocks to the current C6 ZO6 shocks (Best Bang For the BUCK and significantly improves handling over what you have now. IF,, you wanted a little less firm ride, get the C6 Z-51 shocks! Still a lot better handling but more forgiving ride. I would find someone with a GM TECH2 and have them DE-PROGRAM that F-45 out of your life! Its really easy. Then you can just pop in any performance shock and not have ANY ISSUES! The C6 Shocks drop right in with out ANY issues.
Install a new OEM differential mount. Yours are most likely very soft and no longer firmly position the rear suspension. If you really want a more planted car, install a PFADT Design differential mount.
Engine mounts. If the rear diff mount needs replaced, the engine mounts are more than likely no longer properly functioning The differential mount and the engine mounts keep the drive train stable. Do you ever experience wheel hop?
For an even more planted ride "you will notice a lot more drive train and road noise" up-grade the old worn out suspension A Arm rubber bushing with poly bushings.
Rack improvements: There are several companies that have a Poly and or Delran rack mount bushing kit. The passengers side of the steering rack mounts in an OEM rubber bushing. Have someone rapidly move the steering wheel LEFT AND RGHT while you observe that side of the rack. If the bushing is worn, that side will squirm and move a good bit. Replace that with an improved poly bushing or the Delran bushing. You will have a more positive steering input and feel.
Check ALL four wheel bearing assembly HUBs for excessive bearing wear. If you jack up that wheel and PUSH & PULL the wheel at the 000 & 180 deg position, you will be able to determine if you have ANY excessive hub assy bearing SLOP. There really should be little to no lost motion. The more you have the worse the hub bearings are.
Let me know what you think..
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 16, 2018 at 10:35 AM.
I'd add to inspect your rear toe rods. It's basically a hard mounted tie rod with no steering gear connection. Both mine were blown at 80K miles, the car would pull HARD right under WOT acceleration. The boots were cracked and roasted and probably lost their grease a long time ago. Made the rear of the car much more stable both under load and at speed.





