Adding 100rwhp to c5
#21
Race Director
The last two posts put a smile on my face. I'm getting ready to de-mod my car by taking off the SC kit, and changing back to my larger Crane cam. I loved driving the car when it was NA @ 483/432 RW and now (644/538) it's just too much. It's like having warp drive when I go WOT and the tach hits about 4k, and I really have no use for it. I've spent thousands on mods, and twisted my original diff. into scrap aluminum (3 rib) so now it's got a built diff. and both trans/diff braces. Decide how you're gonna use your car, and mod appropriately.
Unlike me...
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Last edited by zeevette; 08-15-2018 at 11:23 AM.
#22
What size was your NA cam? And I agree there comes a point when it becomes too much and you drive your car less and less. I’m super happy with my heads cam setup. However right now I can barely drive it unless I unplug the IAC valve. I think hptuners corrupted my IAC drivers in my pcm. I’m hoping one of the vette tech guys can give me some help. I bet 600 to the wheels is a rocket blast though. I too fear my 10 bolt with 4:10s is about to explode every single time I get on it. But to the OP I really do think IF you’re a bit into the hot rod scene you will like the cam I suggested but if you like a cool smooth drive Thats close to stock go forced induction. Be sure to get a spot on tune whichever way you go as a bad tune will RUIN the experience and can also ruin your ride.
#23
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Here ya go. Some MODS are strictly to ADD POWER.. Some MODS are there to add reliability.
POWER:
Ported higher compression Patriot Performance heads 202 intake valves, Ti retainers
42 lb/hr injectors
Home Ported Fast 90 intake,
Ported 90mm TB
Stainless Works Ceramic Coated 2/3/4 headers.
Full 3" Stainless works exhaust
VARARAM Cold Air Intake
243, 610 lift 114+4 cam
180 deg thermostat.
PCM tuned
RELIABILITY:
LS2 Timing chain with LS1/6 timing chain dampener
Caddy Racing Lifters
Hardened push rods
Gold dual springs
New Lifter buckets
ARP Head Studs
ARP Dampener bolt
Power Bond/Dayco 25% dampener
EMISSIONS. CT DOES NOT require tail pipe emissions. They just connect the system to the OBD2 port and if you do not have any emissions related DTCs, you PASS. The car still needs to be in the bay and on the rollers so the state required monitor CAMERA can record the guy actually emissions testing your car. Some cars that don't pass can elect to have the car run on the emissions dyno.
DRIVETRAIN MODS:
T60/60 TRANSZILLA MN12 Conversion
Differential C6 ZO6 hardened output shafts, C6 ZO6 clutches, Hardened spider gear cross shaft
ECS Trans brace
Torque tube disassembled and check for viable couplers and bearings
PFADT Differential mount
C6 ZO6 shocks
3/8" aluminum tunnel plate
Spec Dual Disk Clutch with all new: Pilot bearing slave, throw out brg and remote bleeder Properly measured for correct shim install (not needed in my install)
Pressure plate properly off set balanced to eliminate any possibility of any drivetrain vibrations issues.
TIRES/Rims CCW 505a 19X11.5 wide rims, TIRES= Toyo Proxis T1R, rear 315/25/19, front 275/30/19
Tick Master Cylinder
I'm sure I left something out.
Bill
POWER:
Ported higher compression Patriot Performance heads 202 intake valves, Ti retainers
42 lb/hr injectors
Home Ported Fast 90 intake,
Ported 90mm TB
Stainless Works Ceramic Coated 2/3/4 headers.
Full 3" Stainless works exhaust
VARARAM Cold Air Intake
243, 610 lift 114+4 cam
180 deg thermostat.
PCM tuned
RELIABILITY:
LS2 Timing chain with LS1/6 timing chain dampener
Caddy Racing Lifters
Hardened push rods
Gold dual springs
New Lifter buckets
ARP Head Studs
ARP Dampener bolt
Power Bond/Dayco 25% dampener
EMISSIONS. CT DOES NOT require tail pipe emissions. They just connect the system to the OBD2 port and if you do not have any emissions related DTCs, you PASS. The car still needs to be in the bay and on the rollers so the state required monitor CAMERA can record the guy actually emissions testing your car. Some cars that don't pass can elect to have the car run on the emissions dyno.
DRIVETRAIN MODS:
T60/60 TRANSZILLA MN12 Conversion
Differential C6 ZO6 hardened output shafts, C6 ZO6 clutches, Hardened spider gear cross shaft
ECS Trans brace
Torque tube disassembled and check for viable couplers and bearings
PFADT Differential mount
C6 ZO6 shocks
3/8" aluminum tunnel plate
Spec Dual Disk Clutch with all new: Pilot bearing slave, throw out brg and remote bleeder Properly measured for correct shim install (not needed in my install)
Pressure plate properly off set balanced to eliminate any possibility of any drivetrain vibrations issues.
TIRES/Rims CCW 505a 19X11.5 wide rims, TIRES= Toyo Proxis T1R, rear 315/25/19, front 275/30/19
Tick Master Cylinder
I'm sure I left something out.
Bill
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CorvetteBrent (08-17-2018)
#24
Le Mans Master
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#25
Tech Contributor
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Location: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
LMAO! I did a lot, YES the parts were expensive but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I SAVED for a long time to do the job ONCE and DO IT RIGHT!
Yes it was a LOT of expensive parts BUT, I did ALL of the work my self (except the T60/60 Conversion) and saved on the labor cost. I shopped around for the best deal on parts that I could find at the time. I know it was all done correctly.
I didn't even include the plugs, wires, coolant, brakes, other fluids, gaskets, new oil pump, seals ect in the cost.....
My wife and I both work, have good steady jobs, kids are grown and on their own "sort of" and we save cash for the thing we want (don't necessarily have to have). So,, this was a long term goal project and I achieved that goal of 450 RWHP or better. .
It feels good to achieve a goal. If I need more power at this point, I would add some Nitrous. Maybe one day.
We also have a 11 Grand Sport Vert. Its my Wife's. Completely stock.
IF,, I ever get a chance to mod it, it will be Supercharged with reliability engine/drivetrain mods. Nothing extreme!
Bill
Yes it was a LOT of expensive parts BUT, I did ALL of the work my self (except the T60/60 Conversion) and saved on the labor cost. I shopped around for the best deal on parts that I could find at the time. I know it was all done correctly.
I didn't even include the plugs, wires, coolant, brakes, other fluids, gaskets, new oil pump, seals ect in the cost.....
My wife and I both work, have good steady jobs, kids are grown and on their own "sort of" and we save cash for the thing we want (don't necessarily have to have). So,, this was a long term goal project and I achieved that goal of 450 RWHP or better. .
It feels good to achieve a goal. If I need more power at this point, I would add some Nitrous. Maybe one day.
We also have a 11 Grand Sport Vert. Its my Wife's. Completely stock.
IF,, I ever get a chance to mod it, it will be Supercharged with reliability engine/drivetrain mods. Nothing extreme!
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 08-15-2018 at 01:09 PM.
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#26
Drifting
You can make a C5 Z06 run with a stock C6 Z06, but you would be luckily if the $$ amount of the C5 Z06 plus mods would be less than just buying the C6 Z06. But running with a C7 Z06 - not hardly.
You can make the C6 Z06 run with the stock C7 Z06 (non Z07) but again you would be lucky to be money ahead.
You can make the C6 Z06 run with the stock C7 Z06 (non Z07) but again you would be lucky to be money ahead.
#27
Le Mans Master
LMAO! I did a lot, YES the parts were expensive but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I SAVED for a long time to do the job ONCE and DO IT RIGHT!
Yes it was a LOT of expensive parts BUT, I did ALL of the work my self (except the T60/60 Conversion) and saved on the labor cost. I shopped around for the best deal on parts that I could find at the time. I know it was all done correctly.
I didn't even include the plugs, wires, coolant, brakes, other fluids, gaskets, new oil pump, seals ect in the cost.....
My wife and I both work, have good steady jobs, kids are grown and on their own "sort of" and we save cash for the thing we want (don't necessarily have to have). So,, this was a long term goal project and I achieved that goal of 450 RWHP or better. .
It feels good to achieve a goal. If I need more power at this point, I would add some Nitrous. Maybe one day.
We also have a 11 Grand Sport Vert. Its my Wife's. Completely stock.
IF,, I ever get a chance to mod it, it will be Supercharged with reliability engine/drivetrain mods. Nothing extreme!
Bill
Yes it was a LOT of expensive parts BUT, I did ALL of the work my self (except the T60/60 Conversion) and saved on the labor cost. I shopped around for the best deal on parts that I could find at the time. I know it was all done correctly.
I didn't even include the plugs, wires, coolant, brakes, other fluids, gaskets, new oil pump, seals ect in the cost.....
My wife and I both work, have good steady jobs, kids are grown and on their own "sort of" and we save cash for the thing we want (don't necessarily have to have). So,, this was a long term goal project and I achieved that goal of 450 RWHP or better. .
It feels good to achieve a goal. If I need more power at this point, I would add some Nitrous. Maybe one day.
We also have a 11 Grand Sport Vert. Its my Wife's. Completely stock.
IF,, I ever get a chance to mod it, it will be Supercharged with reliability engine/drivetrain mods. Nothing extreme!
Bill
#28
Race Director
What size was your NA cam? And I agree there comes a point when it becomes too much and you drive your car less and less. I’m super happy with my heads cam setup. However right now I can barely drive it unless I unplug the IAC valve. I think hptuners corrupted my IAC drivers in my pcm. I’m hoping one of the vette tech guys can give me some help. I bet 600 to the wheels is a rocket blast though. I too fear my 10 bolt with 4:10s is about to explode every single time I get on it. But to the OP I really do think IF you’re a bit into the hot rod scene you will like the cam I suggested but if you like a cool smooth drive Thats close to stock go forced induction. Be sure to get a spot on tune whichever way you go as a bad tune will RUIN the experience and can also ruin your ride.
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (08-17-2018)
#29
That’s a nice grInd for a street car. My grind is a bit large but out of all the big off the shelf cams it makes a lot of lowish to mid range power and don’t have to spin to the moon on these weak rod bolts.
235/243 .630/.610 111 lsa. It’s whu I went with the aftermarket heads for the extra ptv and I had a bad lifter and I’d be darned to pills the stock 853 heads to bolt those turds back on lol and yea I do all my work myself too. That way you know it’s done right. My buddies got picture of me sitting down inside the engine bay when I couldn’t get that dang oil pickup tube bolt in lmao
235/243 .630/.610 111 lsa. It’s whu I went with the aftermarket heads for the extra ptv and I had a bad lifter and I’d be darned to pills the stock 853 heads to bolt those turds back on lol and yea I do all my work myself too. That way you know it’s done right. My buddies got picture of me sitting down inside the engine bay when I couldn’t get that dang oil pickup tube bolt in lmao
Last edited by Lt1slowerbird; 08-15-2018 at 05:41 PM.
#30
Burning Brakes
I have to agree. I’m 450-480 and i love the sound of a cam car and how it shakes you. But it is terrible driveability wise in tight traffic. But i don’t mind the cam surge. The wife hates it lol
If I were to go back and do it again I’d look into forced induction as well. I tried to reply but it didn’t go through
plus with your smog stipulation it may be easier to pass smog tests? We don’t have that where I am. Hell you roll in and they check your lights and slap your sticker on
If I were to go back and do it again I’d look into forced induction as well. I tried to reply but it didn’t go through
plus with your smog stipulation it may be easier to pass smog tests? We don’t have that where I am. Hell you roll in and they check your lights and slap your sticker on
#31
Burning Brakes
Speedy
Even IF and WHEN you get that magic 450 RWHP goal,,,,,,,, YOU HAVE A WHOLE LOT MORE MONEY that you need to invest to make it reliable!!
TRACTION! NON EXISTANT! = On the stock size tires and normal driving rubber it will be difficult to put this power to the ground reliably!!
WHEEL HOP/DRIVE TRAIN SHAKE! = If you don't address "engine mounts" "differential mount" "shocks" & "tires" your will have a very difficult time launching, gaining traction and most likely experience wheel hop! Wheel hop can equate to broken differential and or transmission. IF,, you put sticky tires on the rear, and launch hard and gain any sort of decent traction, you will most likely pop the differential output shafts.
Your torque tube rubber couplers will most likely NOT survive the transformation. You most likely have the 10mm couplers and the rubber couplers are most likely dry rotted and ready to POP! 97-2000 C5s have the 10mm couplers.
Clutch: IS NOT GOING TO BE HAPPY with anything over 420 RWHP! You will most likely get the PEDDLE STUCH TO THE FLOOR issues.
Just some things that I've seen that give people problems when they make engine mods.
I have an 02 ZO6 that I've modded and have reached that goal. TRUST ME,,, IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I had it to do ALL OVER AGAIN, I would have gone the Forced Induction Route!!!!!!! Not that I don't like my Heads, Cam, Fast 90/90, Header engine; but the FI engine is MUCH MORE drivable and reliable.
BC
Even IF and WHEN you get that magic 450 RWHP goal,,,,,,,, YOU HAVE A WHOLE LOT MORE MONEY that you need to invest to make it reliable!!
TRACTION! NON EXISTANT! = On the stock size tires and normal driving rubber it will be difficult to put this power to the ground reliably!!
WHEEL HOP/DRIVE TRAIN SHAKE! = If you don't address "engine mounts" "differential mount" "shocks" & "tires" your will have a very difficult time launching, gaining traction and most likely experience wheel hop! Wheel hop can equate to broken differential and or transmission. IF,, you put sticky tires on the rear, and launch hard and gain any sort of decent traction, you will most likely pop the differential output shafts.
Your torque tube rubber couplers will most likely NOT survive the transformation. You most likely have the 10mm couplers and the rubber couplers are most likely dry rotted and ready to POP! 97-2000 C5s have the 10mm couplers.
Clutch: IS NOT GOING TO BE HAPPY with anything over 420 RWHP! You will most likely get the PEDDLE STUCH TO THE FLOOR issues.
Just some things that I've seen that give people problems when they make engine mods.
I have an 02 ZO6 that I've modded and have reached that goal. TRUST ME,,, IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I had it to do ALL OVER AGAIN, I would have gone the Forced Induction Route!!!!!!! Not that I don't like my Heads, Cam, Fast 90/90, Header engine; but the FI engine is MUCH MORE drivable and reliable.
BC
#32
Team Owner
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Location: altered state
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St. Jude Donor '05
Call Mamo hes in SoCal
You dont need special lifters, oil pumps, etc. If anyone can squeze the most out of an LS1 and pass smog its him. His LS1 ran awfully strong, took a good ear to tell it wasnt stock.
I dont think you have to deal with the sniffer just the visual/plug in.
What area are you in?
You dont need special lifters, oil pumps, etc. If anyone can squeze the most out of an LS1 and pass smog its him. His LS1 ran awfully strong, took a good ear to tell it wasnt stock.
I dont think you have to deal with the sniffer just the visual/plug in.
What area are you in?
#34
For between $8-$10k (less if you can reuse parts) you can buy an engine from one of the well known engine shops already built with the best things that'll bring you to the moon as far as HP goes without the guess work and wasted parts and money. I priced out one from a builder that guaranteed 610hp on pump gas. Now don't ask me for the particulars because I'm not able to rattle off everything that went into the build be I do know that it's cheaper in the long run to do it this way. Plus it's guaranteed! Now they all have engines from stock to out and out monsters depending on how much you want to spend and your needs. Yes you can build an engine yourself if you have the experience. I've been building engines for decades but that was then. Today there are hundreds to choose from and most as less than you could build it for. So make sure to do your homework, machine shop cost, parts, wrong parts and your time and labor. Don't forget you'll have to beef up your trans and rear end too not to mention the coulple of sets of tires you'll burn up playing with and breaking in your new mill! It's your money spend it wisely.
Last edited by My1stONE; 08-19-2018 at 12:19 AM. Reason: Missed word
#35
Being in CA limits your options - I'm not in CA myself but I get the impression that most of the standard things the rest of us would do (long-tube headers and cams, especially) won't fly in CA. The emissions folks probably won't be able to spot a mild cam (with little or no overlap to keep the idle smooth) or a ported heads (the magic is on the inside) and an LS6 manifold will look pretty stock. My 02 Z06 just has LT headers and made 370whp, so I'm guessing stock exhaust manifolds + LS6 intake manifold + stealthy cam + ported LS6 heads could get a base C5 into the same range, perhaps a little more.
Or you could skip that stuff and go straight to a CARB-approved supercharger, and have more power than most (all?) naturally aspirated C5 Z06s.
Or you could skip that stuff and go straight to a CARB-approved supercharger, and have more power than most (all?) naturally aspirated C5 Z06s.
#36
Even IF and WHEN you get that magic 450 RWHP goal,,,,,,,, YOU HAVE A WHOLE LOT MORE MONEY that you need to invest to make it reliable!!
TRACTION! NON EXISTANT! = On the stock size tires and normal driving rubber it will be difficult to put this power to the ground reliably!!
Your torque tube rubber couplers will most likely NOT survive the transformation. You most likely have the 10mm couplers and the rubber couplers are most likely dry rotted and ready to POP! 97-2000 C5s have the 10mm couplers.
TRACTION! NON EXISTANT! = On the stock size tires and normal driving rubber it will be difficult to put this power to the ground reliably!!
Your torque tube rubber couplers will most likely NOT survive the transformation. You most likely have the 10mm couplers and the rubber couplers are most likely dry rotted and ready to POP! 97-2000 C5s have the 10mm couplers.
Are torque tube couplers going to be a problem at 450whp for someone who doesn't drag race?
#38
Upgraded air intake and exhaust (headers?), cam and stock everything else?
You will need to upgrade your:
Headers, heads, intake, TB, and a mail-in tune will get you about 75-85RWHP. If you want to get up to the magic 100 mark, port what you can, larger injectors, and dyno tune.
#39
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Got shorty headers also. Maybe a just adding a ported tb along with the ls6 manifold and mail tune or tune might be satisfying enough.
Last edited by Speedy007; 08-20-2018 at 12:22 AM.
#40
Call Mamo hes in SoCal
You dont need special lifters, oil pumps, etc. If anyone can squeze the most out of an LS1 and pass smog its him. His LS1 ran awfully strong, took a good ear to tell it wasnt stock.
I dont think you have to deal with the sniffer just the visual/plug in.
What area are you in?
You dont need special lifters, oil pumps, etc. If anyone can squeze the most out of an LS1 and pass smog its him. His LS1 ran awfully strong, took a good ear to tell it wasnt stock.
I dont think you have to deal with the sniffer just the visual/plug in.
What area are you in?
also I seen people suggest roller rockers and things. Please be careful with these as most roller rockers add a lot of nose weight. Which is where it counts in valvetrain stability at high rpm. Texas speed has some super nice ones that are almost as light as oem with upgraded trunnions. I personally have the tsp trunion upgraded stock style and I’m on .630 lift and have good pad contact. However my valve angle is slightly different due to aftermarket heads
Last edited by Lt1slowerbird; 08-20-2018 at 05:46 PM.