From my personal research on the topic, it's possible, but requires heads/headwork, a very large cam, LT's/Full exhaust, and a good tune. Based on the money spent, boost or nitrous would be more cost effective. Again, this is based on my own research, and I'm sure someone with more expertise will chime in shortly.

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

Trying to understand the question: I'm going through these mods myself right now. Heads alone won't gain you 100hp.

A 100% stock a C5 should have around 315ish rwhp. To get to 400 rwhp you will need (at least) a cam, 243 or 799 heads, LS6 intake manifold, LT headers, full exhaust, intake, and tune.

 

 

You might need two heads. J/K Anyway, assuming you already have LT headers, 100RW is possible over stock. For one thing, you start with about 290-310 RW, not 350. That's the factory estimate at the crank, and with accessories (not all) attached. A set of LTs, a cam around 228-232, CAI and a tune should do the trick and still be very streetable. A/T or manual makes a difference in gearing, and how much cam you can be comfortable with. If you've a '01-newer you already have the LS6 intake setup.

 

 

This is the combo (it maybe not the most up to date options) that the PO put together that made 410 rwhp in my '99 FRC;

Callaway '01-04 Honker intake
LS6 MAF and ported throttle body
stock LS6 intake
stock '06 243 heads (non Z06)
LS6 short block but with forged -2cc pistons, forged rods and Melling HP oil pump
stock gaskets including '02-04 GM MLS heads gasket - Cometic 0.040" MSL would have boosted compression back closer to 10.75:1
Comp 226/230 0.598"/0.608" 113+2 LSA camshaft, 26926 dual springs, Ti retainers, Trunion upgrade and 7.300" push rods
LS7 lifters in LS2 trays and LS2 timing chain
160 degree thermostat
LG Pro 1-3/4" and 3" catted X-pipe both ceramic coated, '01-04 Ti Z06 exhaust
FAST 36 lbs/hr injectors and a conservative tune

To get the added power to the ground he swapped in an '01-04 Z06 torque tube with a stock GM LS3/LS7 flywheel/clutch. A fabricated all aluminum radiator and an oil cooler would also be handy. Another thing to consider is the stronger '01-04 3-rib differential if you have the '97-00 single rib unit in the car now.

If I wanted more then I would have to step up to say a LS2 throttle body, a FAST intake and say TEA 215cc CNC ported heads with the Cometic MLS head gaskets and maybe a bit more camshaft but then again maybe not - that would help boost the power numbers closer to say 445-450 rwhp. Short of more cubic inches that is about the streetable limit.

 

Would I be around that 450 ish mark with my supporting mods. Vararam intake, hiflow exhaust, shortty headers. Different rearend gears I have no idea how to calculate what spec they are I just know the differential is not original. Possibly the cam is a z06 or higher spec. If changing the heads to a 243 or port my 853’s with a tune will get me roughly where I would like to be then it’s all good. Thoughts on where the hp mark is on this ? Minus the 90mm ls6 intake I plan to throw on. Overall goal blow the c7 and c9 away. Or at least keep up with ease. Sorry for the miscombobulated order.

 

C9 (assuming you meant C8), big unknown target. You better do some serious work to keep up with those Joneses. Rear end, FI, tranny work (... tires, fenders.. and then maybe not possible at all), someone tell me I'm wrong.

 

if you want to blow away a c7 in acceleration/straight line and being in California, an a&a blower kit makes the most sense to me but it won't be cheap by any means

 

 

270-300 tops. With a CAI and catback I was at 301 rwhp on a Mustang dyno and that was spoken of highly by the shop.
A 100 HP increase with heads/cam/headers/intake is entirely possible.

 

IMO if you want to keep up with a C7 while passing California smog visual inspection and not go forced induction, an LS3 swap with bolt ons would be the best way to accomplish that. Even then, you will only just keep up with the base C7 models. The Z06 and ZR1 C7s will still blow you away, primarily because they are supercharged monsters.

 

 

Speedy

Even IF and WHEN you get that magic 450 RWHP goal,,,,,,,, YOU HAVE A WHOLE LOT MORE MONEY that you need to invest to make it reliable!!

TRACTION! NON EXISTANT! = On the stock size tires and normal driving rubber it will be difficult to put this power to the ground reliably!!

WHEEL HOP/DRIVE TRAIN SHAKE! = If you don't address "engine mounts" "differential mount" "shocks" & "tires" your will have a very difficult time launching, gaining traction and most likely experience wheel hop! Wheel hop can equate to broken differential and or transmission. IF,, you put sticky tires on the rear, and launch hard and gain any sort of decent traction, you will most likely pop the differential output shafts.

Your torque tube rubber couplers will most likely NOT survive the transformation. You most likely have the 10mm couplers and the rubber couplers are most likely dry rotted and ready to POP! 97-2000 C5s have the 10mm couplers.

Clutch: IS NOT GOING TO BE HAPPY with anything over 420 RWHP! You will most likely get the PEDDLE STUCH TO THE FLOOR issues.

Just some things that I've seen that give people problems when they make engine mods.

I have an 02 ZO6 that I've modded and have reached that goal. TRUST ME,,, IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I had it to do ALL OVER AGAIN, I would have gone the Forced Induction Route!!!!!!! Not that I don't like my Heads, Cam, Fast 90/90, Header engine; but the FI engine is MUCH MORE drivable and reliable.

BC

 

 

 

100% DIT DOT AGREE! My wife ALSO hates to drive my car.. She hates my SPEC Clutch and the TIC master cylinder! LOL!

Same here with smog. I had to drive mine onto the emission station rollers (totally against the state rules) because the smog gut could NOT drive the car and kept stalling it.

 

got A build thread? I’d like to check her out. Lol and once you do that for the guy he’s gotta pass you then. Haha. At 450+ how you pass smogs? I imagine a big cam wouldn’t pass a sniffer test