The last two posts put a smile on my face. I'm getting ready to de-mod my car by taking off the SC kit, and changing back to my larger Crane cam. I loved driving the car when it was NA @ 483/432 RW and now (644/538) it's just too much. It's like having warp drive when I go WOT and the tach hits about 4k, and I really have no use for it. I've spent thousands on mods, and twisted my original diff. into scrap aluminum (3 rib) so now it's got a built diff. and both trans/diff braces. Decide how you're gonna use your car, and mod appropriately.

Unlike me...

 

 

Here ya go. Some MODS are strictly to ADD POWER.. Some MODS are there to add reliability.

POWER:
Ported higher compression Patriot Performance heads 202 intake valves, Ti retainers
42 lb/hr injectors
Home Ported Fast 90 intake,
Ported 90mm TB
Stainless Works Ceramic Coated 2/3/4 headers.
Full 3" Stainless works exhaust
VARARAM Cold Air Intake
243, 610 lift 114+4 cam
180 deg thermostat.
PCM tuned

RELIABILITY:

LS2 Timing chain with LS1/6 timing chain dampener
Caddy Racing Lifters
Hardened push rods
Gold dual springs
New Lifter buckets
ARP Head Studs
ARP Dampener bolt
Power Bond/Dayco 25% dampener

EMISSIONS. CT DOES NOT require tail pipe emissions. They just connect the system to the OBD2 port and if you do not have any emissions related DTCs, you PASS. The car still needs to be in the bay and on the rollers so the state required monitor CAMERA can record the guy actually emissions testing your car. Some cars that don't pass can elect to have the car run on the emissions dyno.

DRIVETRAIN MODS:

T60/60 TRANSZILLA MN12 Conversion
Differential C6 ZO6 hardened output shafts, C6 ZO6 clutches, Hardened spider gear cross shaft
ECS Trans brace
Torque tube disassembled and check for viable couplers and bearings
PFADT Differential mount
C6 ZO6 shocks
3/8" aluminum tunnel plate
Spec Dual Disk Clutch with all new: Pilot bearing slave, throw out brg and remote bleeder Properly measured for correct shim install (not needed in my install)
Pressure plate properly off set balanced to eliminate any possibility of any drivetrain vibrations issues.

TIRES/Rims CCW 505a 19X11.5 wide rims, TIRES= Toyo Proxis T1R, rear 315/25/19, front 275/30/19

Tick Master Cylinder

I'm sure I left something out.

Bill

 

Yes, a wheelbarrow (filled with $)

 

LMAO! I did a lot, YES the parts were expensive but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I SAVED for a long time to do the job ONCE and DO IT RIGHT!

Yes it was a LOT of expensive parts BUT, I did ALL of the work my self (except the T60/60 Conversion) and saved on the labor cost. I shopped around for the best deal on parts that I could find at the time. I know it was all done correctly.
I didn't even include the plugs, wires, coolant, brakes, other fluids, gaskets, new oil pump, seals ect in the cost.....

My wife and I both work, have good steady jobs, kids are grown and on their own "sort of" and we save cash for the thing we want (don't necessarily have to have). So,, this was a long term goal project and I achieved that goal of 450 RWHP or better. .
It feels good to achieve a goal. If I need more power at this point, I would add some Nitrous. Maybe one day.

We also have a 11 Grand Sport Vert. Its my Wife's. Completely stock.
IF,, I ever get a chance to mod it, it will be Supercharged with reliability engine/drivetrain mods. Nothing extreme!

Bill

 

You can make a C5 Z06 run with a stock C6 Z06, but you would be luckily if the $$ amount of the C5 Z06 plus mods would be less than just buying the C6 Z06. But running with a C7 Z06 - not hardly.
You can make the C6 Z06 run with the stock C7 Z06 (non Z07) but again you would be lucky to be money ahead.

 

Totally get it... I just feel like the OP thinks this can be accomplished with engine work only for the most part

 

If it was me you're refering to, my NA cam was a Crane 228-232 @ 112+5 and .600/.600 lift. Pretty mild, and very streetable. I believe my best purchase was my hand finished Trickflow heads. I also had a Meziere electric water pump, a PB %25 pulley and a home ported FAST90/LS2TB and #36 Racetronics injectors. All work by myself on jackstands in my garage, with the exception of tuning by Tom Wong at Wong's Performance in Vancouver, WA.

 

 

I ended up with the best of both worlds. My 1998 C5 has an aggressive cam which shakes me (love the sound and the feel). My 2000 C5 has a supercharger (Procharger P1) and it is smooth and more civilized.

 

I agree, Bill. I find my 2000 Procharged beast to be much more drivable, reliable, and civilized. That said, sometimes the sound and feel of my cammed 1998 beast just rocks my world!

 

Call Mamo hes in SoCal
You dont need special lifters, oil pumps, etc. If anyone can squeze the most out of an LS1 and pass smog its him. His LS1 ran awfully strong, took a good ear to tell it wasnt stock.
I dont think you have to deal with the sniffer just the visual/plug in.
What area are you in?

 

 

For between $8-$10k (less if you can reuse parts) you can buy an engine from one of the well known engine shops already built with the best things that'll bring you to the moon as far as HP goes without the guess work and wasted parts and money. I priced out one from a builder that guaranteed 610hp on pump gas. Now don't ask me for the particulars because I'm not able to rattle off everything that went into the build be I do know that it's cheaper in the long run to do it this way. Plus it's guaranteed! Now they all have engines from stock to out and out monsters depending on how much you want to spend and your needs. Yes you can build an engine yourself if you have the experience. I've been building engines for decades but that was then. Today there are hundreds to choose from and most as less than you could build it for. So make sure to do your homework, machine shop cost, parts, wrong parts and your time and labor. Don't forget you'll have to beef up your trans and rear end too not to mention the coulple of sets of tires you'll burn up playing with and breaking in your new mill! It's your money spend it wisely.

 

Being in CA limits your options - I'm not in CA myself but I get the impression that most of the standard things the rest of us would do (long-tube headers and cams, especially) won't fly in CA. The emissions folks probably won't be able to spot a mild cam (with little or no overlap to keep the idle smooth) or a ported heads (the magic is on the inside) and an LS6 manifold will look pretty stock. My 02 Z06 just has LT headers and made 370whp, so I'm guessing stock exhaust manifolds + LS6 intake manifold + stealthy cam + ported LS6 heads could get a base C5 into the same range, perhaps a little more.

Or you could skip that stuff and go straight to a CARB-approved supercharger, and have more power than most (all?) naturally aspirated C5 Z06s.

 

What kind of tires do you have on your car? My C5 could spin the tires in 2nd with the all-season tires that the previous owner had on it, but with the mild summer tires that are on it now (Hankook Evo2) it will barely even spin in first. That's at 370whp, but I'm hoping for 450ish next year (heads, cam, intake manifold) and wondering what to expect.

Are torque tube couplers going to be a problem at 450whp for someone who doesn't drag race?

 

 

Let's get back to answering your original question. You currently have:
Upgraded air intake and exhaust (headers?), cam and stock everything else?
You will need to upgrade your:
Headers, heads, intake, TB, and a mail-in tune will get you about 75-85RWHP. If you want to get up to the magic 100 mark, port what you can, larger injectors, and dyno tune.