My 99 Coupe Won't Crank
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2003
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From: Enfield, CT
My 99 Coupe Won't Crank
My 99 Automatic Coupe refuses to crank. The only codes I see are B2282, B2283, B2284, B2285, and U1064. These are all history codes. I know that the battery is good. I don;t know where to start troubleshooting the problem. Any help is really appreciated.
Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you turn the lights on do they function and shine bright??
Does it not crank at all??
The very FIRST thing that you should do is make sure the battery terminals are clean and properly torqued on to the battery Torque them to 11 ft/lbs.
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2003
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From: Enfield, CT
Bill - Thanks for the quick reply. My e-mail is bob_cres@verizon.net
The lights work normally and they shine bright. In fact, it seams that everything else is working normally.
Battery is good and fully charged The terminals are clean and tight.. I have tried multiple keys.
Bob
The lights work normally and they shine bright. In fact, it seams that everything else is working normally.
Battery is good and fully charged The terminals are clean and tight.. I have tried multiple keys.
Bob
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 802
From: Espanola New Mexico
The first thing to do is to rule out the starter/solenoid, if knowledgeable about digital multimeter connect positive meter lead to switch terminal on solenoid, usually a purple wire and the negative lead to negative battery terminal select dc volts. Have someone try to start the car while you observe the meter, you should have 12 volts, if 12 volts is present then all the upstream interlocks are OK, then it could be your starter/solenoid or you could have loose battery cables or loose battery cable connection on the starter solenoid. If 12 volts is not present on the purple wire, it could be TDR, neutral safety switch, the vats key reader, and or dirty electrical contacts in the ignition switch. Hope this helps, good luck.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Schematic sent:
Look on that schematic. Check to see that Fuse/s 14, 50 & 52
Fuses 14 & 50 will be hot when the key is in the ON/Run position. Fuse 52 is hot all the time
There are 2 test points on top of each fuse. Measure both test points to ground. to see if you have the proper voltage on BOTH test points.
The theft deterrent relay is in the passengers foot well on the fire wall above the BCM It has four wires. If you GROUND the yellow/black wire to ground, you will be able to BY PASS all of the cars security functions. If it starts after you ground that wire, you have a BCM Security issue.
Bill
Look on that schematic. Check to see that Fuse/s 14, 50 & 52
Fuses 14 & 50 will be hot when the key is in the ON/Run position. Fuse 52 is hot all the time
There are 2 test points on top of each fuse. Measure both test points to ground. to see if you have the proper voltage on BOTH test points.
The theft deterrent relay is in the passengers foot well on the fire wall above the BCM It has four wires. If you GROUND the yellow/black wire to ground, you will be able to BY PASS all of the cars security functions. If it starts after you ground that wire, you have a BCM Security issue.
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 32
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From: Enfield, CT
Bill - Just had a chance to run through your instructions. Been under the weather lately. Anyway, I get battery voltage on both sides of 50 and 52 but nothing on either side of 14 (ignition in the run position). I pulled the fuse and it checks out OK. I assume that I should have seen voltage on one side even if the fuse were bad. Right?
I grounded the yellow/black wire on the theft deterrent relay and the car still would not crank. Just hear the clicking from the relays. Any suggestions as to the next step?
Thanks,
Bob
I grounded the yellow/black wire on the theft deterrent relay and the car still would not crank. Just hear the clicking from the relays. Any suggestions as to the next step?
Thanks,
Bob
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you do NOT have voltage on fuse 14 when the ignition switch is placed in the START position, the ignition switch is bad OR the IGN2 Fuse is not providing power to the ignition switch. Without power going all the way through the circuits to the TDR, jumpering the yellow black wire will NOT provide any action.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2003
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From: Enfield, CT
Sorry, but just to be clear, when you say "START" position, is this the same as the On/Run position mentioned earlier?
Last edited by bcresc; Oct 19, 2018 at 02:26 PM. Reason: Sentence truncated
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 802
From: Espanola New Mexico
Have you heard of wack a starter, have someone try to start the car while you smack the starter with something like a wooden broom handle with a hammer. This is not very technical, but is advise given here on the forum, as starter/solenoids do fail especially if the car has long tube headers. I only give this advise because you state that you can hear relays clicking when you try to start your car and that is a good sign that most things are working correctly. Hope this helps
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 802
From: Espanola New Mexico
Your right about that, imagine working on even newer cars. Did you have a chance to attach a dvm to the switch terminal purple wire on the starter solenoid and verify power when you turn the key to the crank position. I know that most people dread the thought of having to replace starters or solenoids on their cars but they do fail. Keep the faith, I know you will find the cause of your no crank problem.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Attach the NEG lead to chassis ground. Have someone turn the ignition switch to crank and do all the stuff that you NORMALLY do to crank the engine. (shifter in park, foot on brake, ect...) You should see battery voltage on that wire if the starter safety circuit is working.
If you see battery voltage on that solenoid wire, you may need to try the starter THUMP TEST!
BC
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 802
From: Espanola New Mexico
Glad to hear that you found the problem with your car and thanks for the update, to many forum members don't take the time to post after they have found the cause of there particular problems.
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