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Hi. First let me say that I am not a mechanic and I am very limited in my abilities. I did just change the blinker lights today as well as the headlight motor for my C5. I am trying to look on YouTube and also in this forum for some help with the codes. I have codes C1287, C1288, C2105, and C1214. They are current and history. I know 1287 and 1288 have to do with the EBCM. I know that the 2105 has to do with the tire pressure monitor system and 1214 has to do with low voltage. I replace the battery last week and that has helped to turn the abs light off after I’ve driven it but it comes back on when I hit a bump which leads me to believe it’s a ground. Could these codes be related in that if one goes off it sets the others off too? I’m pretty sure the tire pressure sensor is a separate issue but wondered about the others.
I had a friend tell me once that diagnosing is 95% of the issue. Hoping you all can help me.
One other question. How hard is an antenna swap out? Mine won't go down.
Very likely the C1214 is the cause of the C2187 and C2188. THe C1214 is likely NOT related to a grounding issue but rather to an issue with the main power relay inside the EBCM. Here is a link to a DIY repair for the C1214:
If you are not up to doing the internal solder work on the EBCm you can send the EBCM off to ABSFIXER or any of several other places that will do that work for you.
C2105 is telling you that the right front TPMS sensor is having problems. Most likely the battery inside the TPMS has died. Time to replace at least that one and if you don't know when the others were replaced, do all 4. Batteries in TPMS usually have a life span of 6 to 10 years.
8VETTE7, About to open my EBCM. The threads I have read through has a part number for the relay that is no longer available from anywhere I can find.
Is there any updates on this part number that you know of?
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by Kevin Minton
One other question. How hard is an antenna swap out? Mine won't go down.
I bought a universal replacement one from AutoZone. It was anything but Universal and I ended up taking it back. Be sure to buy the GM replacement or it will be an even bigger pain to replace then the correct one will. You do tend to take a lot of stuff out, and some of those nuts back there are going to be rusted and strip off the studs they are on or break them off worse yet. My suggestion would be to spray all those bolts real well and wire brush the threads a couple of times before attempting to get the nuts off or you will break them and there's no fixing them. That may seem vague but you'll see what I mean when you get in there. Do not assume those nuts are going to unscrew, they won't.