Engine not running since changing water pump
#21
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Yes, if the TPS was good I was going to suggest spraying some brake kleen or starting fluid into a vacuum line to see if the engine might run for a little bit longer to see if we have a fuel delivery issue. Yes, the fuel pump should have a 2 second prime when the key is turned on and you should see a little fuel squirting out of the Schrader valve...do that and see if you can hear the pump run for a few seconds....what you can do quickly without getting to involved is swap out the fuel pump relay with the horn relay...see if it runs and if not we can do a few things....will verify if maybe you have a bad pump relay !!...also check fuel pump fuse...#13 I believe or #15...it feeds the load side of the relay. If good we will have to see if we have a good feed to that fuse.
The fuel pump fuse checks out OK.
I swapped the horn and fuel pump relays around. The horn still works and the engine still cuts out. Still not a drop of fuel from the Schrader valve. Not a drop. I can hear a faint very high frequency tone when I switch the ignition on but can't say I can hear a fuel pump working at all.
#22
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Getting somewhere I think.
When I turn on the ignition there is a high pitched tone that lasts a few seconds. By quickly running around the car it seems to be coming from the TPS. If I pull the plug on the TPS the noise stops.
Is this noise normal or am I getting closer.....?
When I turn on the ignition there is a high pitched tone that lasts a few seconds. By quickly running around the car it seems to be coming from the TPS. If I pull the plug on the TPS the noise stops.
Is this noise normal or am I getting closer.....?
#23
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I've never heard my TPS make any noise but we also may have a fuel delivery issue too...MMMM ???....you can see if you have 12 volts on pin 87 with key on with pump relay removed...this is the load feed...the other pin should be ground...I think the ground point is G105 I believe...jumper pins 30 and 87 at the relay (you are jumping the load side) and the pump should run continuously...if it runs then we might have the "control" side of the relay missing power from the PCM (it is power side switched) or a bad control ground....just make ABSOLUTELY SURE you are jumping the right pins...go to the back on the left wheel well and see if you hear the pump running.....I wouldn't suggest popping the Schrader open with the pump running to check to see if any fuel is coming out...get a pressure gauge...they are not to expensive. It's a little difficult getting to the pins if your DVOM or test light have thick tips !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; 10-10-2018 at 01:40 PM.
#24
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that's why I asked if the car was modded, my car is speed density tuned and doesn't use the maf and if the battery is disconnected, new tune file is flashed, or anything like that it must fail the maf in order to go into speed density and the car will turn on and shut off just like you are describing until that code is failed which sometimes takes 10 or so starting attempts... this probably isn't the case here but that's my reason for asking
#25
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that's why I asked if the car was modded, my car is speed density tuned and doesn't use the maf and if the battery is disconnected, new tune file is flashed, or anything like that it must fail the maf in order to go into speed density and the car will turn on and shut off just like you are describing until that code is failed which sometimes takes 10 or so starting attempts... this probably isn't the case here but that's my reason for asking
#26
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I've never heard my TPS make any noise but we also may have a fuel delivery issue too...MMMM ???....you can see if you have 12 volts on pin 87 with key on with pump relay removed...this is the load feed...the other pin should be ground...I think the ground point is G105 I believe...jumper pins 30 and 87 at the relay (you are jumping the load side) and the pump should run continuously...if it runs then we might have the "control" side of the relay missing power from the PCM (it is power side switched) or a bad control ground....just make ABSOLUTELY SURE you are jumping the right pins...go to the back on the left wheel well and see if you hear the pump running.....I wouldn't suggest popping the Schrader open with the pump running to check to see if any fuel is coming out...get a pressure gauge...they are not to expensive. It's a little difficult getting to the pins if your DVOM or test light have thick tips !!
#27
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Fires and quickly dies sounds to me like air can't get into the intake manifold.. it fires as it's pumping the air out of the intake manifold, but then can't get any more air. I once put an engine on a dyno and forgot to remove a 'cap-plug' from the charge-air-cooler before hooking up the hoses. That led to the same thing you're experiencing... fire, very short run before any air that leaked in was pumped out and the engine would die.
Given that the throttle was disconnected during your water pump replacement, it sure seems to me like something is messed up there (throttle not opening).
I can't really explain why you are not getting faults for this, but perhaps the circuits have continuity (passing), and then the thing won't stay running long enough for the more complex monitors to set a fault (actual position not matching desired position might take a little while of engine running to set)???
Does anyone know if the 'clear flood' mode (holding pedal to the floor while cranking) actually opens the throttle all the way during cranking? If so, he can try that and have someone look at the throttle blade to see if it is actually opening.
I think even during normal cranking one would see the throttle move open a little if things are working correctly, and I would expect the control logic to open the throttle as the engine is stalling in an attempt to recover.
Another thought: try disconnecting the vacuum line at the brake booster... if the engine runs that way (possibly too fast), I think that would point to a intake throttle that isn't opening.
Given that the throttle was disconnected during your water pump replacement, it sure seems to me like something is messed up there (throttle not opening).
I can't really explain why you are not getting faults for this, but perhaps the circuits have continuity (passing), and then the thing won't stay running long enough for the more complex monitors to set a fault (actual position not matching desired position might take a little while of engine running to set)???
Does anyone know if the 'clear flood' mode (holding pedal to the floor while cranking) actually opens the throttle all the way during cranking? If so, he can try that and have someone look at the throttle blade to see if it is actually opening.
I think even during normal cranking one would see the throttle move open a little if things are working correctly, and I would expect the control logic to open the throttle as the engine is stalling in an attempt to recover.
Another thought: try disconnecting the vacuum line at the brake booster... if the engine runs that way (possibly too fast), I think that would point to a intake throttle that isn't opening.
Last edited by Walt G; 10-10-2018 at 02:02 PM. Reason: thought of something else
#28
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St. Jude Donor '08
Actually MEASURE the voltage on the fuel pump fuse.. On top of each fuse are TWO TEST POINTS. Measure each one to chassis ground with the key ON. Should see full battery voltage on each test point.
Bill
Bill
#29
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Hi !!...YES, a "clear flood crank" will open the throttle plate during cranking !!...OP is going to see if he has fuel delivery since he did not see evidence of fuel pressure at the rail during cranking...hard to believe he might have 2 separate issues now only 1 since changing a water pump but either a TPS sensor nor a bad TAC motor signal would keep the car from starting !!...good question though.
Last edited by C5 Diag; 10-10-2018 at 09:10 PM.
#30
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
That noise is most likely the syncrous motor that moves the throttle blade. IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The throttle by wire system has ANY issue, it would for sure set a DTC!
Couple of test:
Remove the air bridge.. See If the throttle blade is erect when key on. Thenunplug the motor connector when you hear the noise. Then see If you see a DTC for that motor..
BC
Couple of test:
Remove the air bridge.. See If the throttle blade is erect when key on. Thenunplug the motor connector when you hear the noise. Then see If you see a DTC for that motor..
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 10-10-2018 at 09:26 PM.
#31
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Yes, probably a P1120 or 1220 or both will set if any issues in the TPS circuits...just strange that he had a “crank no start” after a water pump change...engine should at least start with any of those 2 DTC’s set...probably nothing above idle but at least idle !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; 10-10-2018 at 09:42 PM.
#33
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Hi guys.
Thanks for all this. Other things are getting in the way of me getting any time in the garage so I might not get much done until the weekend now.
However I have checked the wiring to the TPS and it has continuity. I took the throttle body off and inspected it carefully. Seems completely fine. It might be a good idea to check the motor is actually operating but the engine should still start and idle as the default throttle blade position is open enough.
I need another pair of hands really. So the weekend will be the best to try and really bottom this out.
Thanks for everything so far. I will report back when I have done all the suggested checks.
Roppa
Thanks for all this. Other things are getting in the way of me getting any time in the garage so I might not get much done until the weekend now.
However I have checked the wiring to the TPS and it has continuity. I took the throttle body off and inspected it carefully. Seems completely fine. It might be a good idea to check the motor is actually operating but the engine should still start and idle as the default throttle blade position is open enough.
I need another pair of hands really. So the weekend will be the best to try and really bottom this out.
Thanks for everything so far. I will report back when I have done all the suggested checks.
Roppa
#34
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I'm back.
I have 12v each side of the pump fuse.
If I short out the relay pins 30 and 87 the car fires and runs, It also revs normally showing the TB must be working even though I could not get it to open by holding the throttle down with ignition on.
I can hear the pump running with the relay shorted and have plenty of pressure at the Schrader valve. But still have that low oil level warning.
I cleared all the DTC's and tried starting the car without the relay shorted out. Cuts out after initial firing as before. No codes have come up. Only that continuous Low Oil warning. Even though I had plenty of oil pressure showing on the gauge and there is plenty of oil in the block.
I have already swapped relays so the fault must be with the circuit that energises that relay I assume?
I have 12v each side of the pump fuse.
If I short out the relay pins 30 and 87 the car fires and runs, It also revs normally showing the TB must be working even though I could not get it to open by holding the throttle down with ignition on.
I can hear the pump running with the relay shorted and have plenty of pressure at the Schrader valve. But still have that low oil level warning.
I cleared all the DTC's and tried starting the car without the relay shorted out. Cuts out after initial firing as before. No codes have come up. Only that continuous Low Oil warning. Even though I had plenty of oil pressure showing on the gauge and there is plenty of oil in the block.
I have already swapped relays so the fault must be with the circuit that energises that relay I assume?
Last edited by roppa440; 10-13-2018 at 10:41 AM.
#36
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I’m kinda in the middle of changing my ignition coils right now...LOL !!....swap out the horn relay (36) with the fuel pump relay...let me know what happens...do you have a 12 volt test light ??...we might not have the “control” side of the circuit working...if you use a voltmeter instead of the test light when checking the feed side you might be confused when you see 12 volts at the feed side at all times except for just 2 seconds...it’s because the control side is power side switched and there is a bias voltage on that circuit when the relay is removed !!...let me know...might also have a bad ground (G105) !!
#37
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Engine oil level switch is on that ground also (105) !!….you probably have a bad ground !!!....I forgot you swapped relays...never mind !!!....check pin 85 with a 12 volt test light connected to battery POSITIVE....light will light if ground is good...I did a quick resistance check and I get .03 ohms between 85 and engine block !!
#38
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Engine oil level switch is on that ground also (105) !!….you probably have a bad ground !!!....I forgot you swapped relays...never mind !!!....check pin 85 with a 12 volt test light connected to battery POSITIVE....light will light if ground is good...I did a quick resistance check and I get .03 ohms between 85 and engine block !!