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Harmonic Balancer Replacement

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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 10:26 PM
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Default Harmonic Balancer Replacement

Hey there. I'm pretty new to the forum as I recently bought a 2000 C5 and I love it. I've noticed my harmonic balancer is shaking some and I want to replace it. I got a price today of $700. Most of this is labor, 4-5 hours at $115 per hour. Does this seem like a fair price? thanks in advance!
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 11:15 PM
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Not that bad if they are including parts. I got a quote before I did it myself for $450.00 just in labor (I buy all the parts).
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 12:48 AM
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That is a fair price. Esp if it includes ALL the parts required
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 07:03 AM
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I paid $400 for labor and bought the balancer. I also bought idlers, tensioners and belts and the guy installed them for me at no extra charge.
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 01:53 PM
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Hey thanks guys, yes that's with parts. I just called my nearest chevy dealer and they came in about 750 with parts. Will probably go with them as the other place they guy said he had never done one and it may go over the 5 hrs.
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 02:36 PM
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Don't normally recommend a dealer, but i would never take it to someone that's never done a vette. You need a few specific tools and if not done properly can cost you big
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DaBoogie42
Hey thanks guys, yes that's with parts. I just called my nearest chevy dealer and they came in about 750 with parts.
Don't over think this one. This is a great deal.
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 11:53 PM
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Got mine done for $699.89 which included powerbond balancer,arp bolt, power steering fluid and labor on my 2000. Took them 3.7 hours.
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 10:04 AM
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Awful lot of horror stories that come from trusting a dealer to repair a car virtually none of the technicians have any experience or training for. I've had a water pump replaced by a dealer when far from home, but really don't know that I would do it again.
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 04:02 PM
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I would ask the stealership if you can provide your own balancer and have them install it correctly. Seen way to many posts on here and ls1tech of guys installing a brand NEW OEM balancer only for it to start wobbling a few thousand miles later. Not worth it, look at a powerbond balancer. Also never go underdrive unless you’re going for full racecar, way to many charge issues with an underdrive on these cars.

If not check the warranty the stealership provides with the newly installed OEM balancer.
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 10:17 PM
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You guys are the best. I was a little leery from the first guy because he stated he had never done. However, I called a few places Saturday and found a shop that has done it before, to the point the guy told me these can be tricky! I appreciated that and he was $600 parts and labor. So fingers crossed!!!!
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 10:19 PM
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And it is an ACDelco OEM, but they offer 12month/12k mile warranty. That seems pretty fair.
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 10:00 AM
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The advice that you have gotten about doing an upgrade to an aftermarket balancer is good advice.
The increased cost is small. The increase in beefiness is not.
And, yes, you want a mechanic who has done this job on a C5 before.

dan k.
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 01:22 AM
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Thanks. I will look at getting the power bond and see if they will put on.
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DaBoogie42
And it is an ACDelco OEM, but they offer 12month/12k mile warranty. That seems pretty fair.
I'd be leery of an OEM balancer.....
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 12:12 PM
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You will be sorry when your NEW OEM DAMPENER is out of warranty and starts wobbling AGAIN!! Go POWERBOND/DAYCO and see if the guy is willing to install an aftermarket ARP BOLT.

If not, make sure that he follows the service manual EXACTLY with all of the steps of installing a NEW OEM Bolt, properly torqueing it and then ANGLE TORQUE it to the proper additional number of degrees for the proper TTY Bolt Stretch!! Other wise, that new damper regardless of what you install will come loose!

Also make sure that they include a new front cover/dampener seal! Otherwise, you will soon spring a new messy oil leak from that old worn out front cover seal.

Something else to watch out for!! They will have to disconnect the steering shaft from the rack! Its CRITICAL that they:

1- Prevent the steering wheel from rotating once the steering shaft is disconnected! If you don't you will get a Steering Wheel Position Sensor error or possibly break the CLOCK SPRING inside the column and then you will get an SIR air bag DTC.
2. Make sure that the front wheels are pointing STRAIGHT AHEAD before the shaft is disconnected.
3. Make sure that the steering shaft to rack shaft coupler is properly installed and properly tightened!

Recommendation: Once the dampener job is done, I would get the car realigned. If you have new or almost new tires, that may prevent any abnormal or early wear patterns.

. Depending on the age of your belts and tensioners, you may want to consider replacing them now as it already been removed for interference like GRANDPA1 did..

Let us know what you decide and how it turns out!

Bill
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 02:27 PM
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Has anyone had a problem with the Summit Racing Bracket Racer SFI Harmonic Damper (SUM-C2501) in normal/street use? I am looking to replace my stock damper with one hoping to do the replacement only once. Would like to know if you had any fitment issues and if it has met your performance and durability expectations. I am also open to suggestions for alternative harmonic dampers.

George
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 06:08 PM
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George

Don't have any knowledge about the Summit damper but why don't you use the proven POWERBOND/DAYCO damper. Excellent piece and it wont break the bank!

Bill
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 07:10 PM
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Have not yet purchased the damper. Took a look at Dayco but liked the Summit better. SFI rated and tested to 12,500 rpm. Only $189. Double the Dayco but half the ATI. How many miles do you have on your Dayco? I can change my mind.

Last edited by MilsteadGC; Dec 15, 2018 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 07:29 PM
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LOL! 20,000 mile. Some at 6850 RPM. The ONLY issue I have with it is the metal hub parts can rust on the model that I have. I think they paint the metal hub parts now. 12,000 RPM sounds good but, as long as it easily covers your RPM Max, no need to go over board. The Powerbond has a good rating too.
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