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I have a 2000 manual vette and I noticed my car having a stumble when cruising at a certain RPM. It does this in any gear and it will continue to do it until I push the accelerator, then it accelerates normally but with a little hesitation. It does it with or without cruise, in town or on highway. I noticed it once and now it is more common. It feels like an unbalanced torque tube, obviously not but that is what I would compare the feeling too. The shifter moves up and down, sometimes pretty violently. I only have a code for an O2 sensor. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Sounds like to me you have an engine that is not running perfectly.
Maybe time for some tlc
Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, Clean TB, Clean MAF, Clean or replace air filter
That's prob where you need to begin, esp if you don't know exactly when replaced last (or ever)
It sounds like a misfire to me, but if you’re getting significant engine/drivetrain movement from a misifire, I’d be sure to check the condition of your engine and transmission mounts. As mentioned above, I’d also go through the list of typical wear items (plugs, wires, air filter, MAF, etc) and make sure everything is in tip top shape.
I have a 2000 manual vette and I noticed my car having a stumble when cruising at a certain RPM. It does this in any gear and it will continue to do it until I push the accelerator, then it accelerates normally but with a little hesitation. It does it with or without cruise, in town or on highway. I noticed it once and now it is more common. It feels like an unbalanced torque tube, obviously not but that is what I would compare the feeling too. The shifter moves up and down, sometimes pretty violently. I only have a code for an O2 sensor. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Bad 02 sensor could be causing a lean condition at steady throttle. Certainly that should be the first (and easy) thing to fix I would think.
P1134
I thought a tune up would definitely be a good place to start. I’ll try that and the O2 sensor.
OK, well I doubt you have a scan tool but looking at fuel trims and O2 sensors would help immensely in an accurate diagnosis without spending a lot of unnecessary money...yes, it could be a bad O2 sensor (a lazy sensor in your case) but then again it can also be "open" or "short to ground" in the O2 sensor circuit, a clogged injector or injectors on bank 1...and just because you have an O2 sensor DTC doesn't ALWAYS mean it's an O2 issue...to rule out ignition (wires) you can mix some water and baking soda (to make it conductive) in a spray bottle and spray that on the ignition system, rev the engine and look for a "lightning show"....do it in a dark garage...good luck and let us know what you find !!
OK, well I doubt you have a scan tool but looking at fuel trims and O2 sensors would help immensely in an accurate diagnosis without spending a lot of unnecessary money...yes, it could be a bad O2 sensor (a lazy sensor in your case) but then again it can also be "open" or "short to ground" in the O2 sensor circuit, a clogged injector or injectors on bank 1...and just because you have an O2 sensor DTC doesn't ALWAYS mean it's an O2 issue...to rule out ignition (wires) you can mix some water and baking soda (to make it conductive) in a spray bottle and spray that on the ignition system, rev the engine and look for a "lightning show"....do it in a dark garage...good luck and let us know what you find !!
I just replaced plugs and I’ll check wires and O2s. Thanks bud
P1134 is for a fouled 02 FRONT sensor on the driver's side------The front 02's are very imprtant as they command all of your P/T fueling based on the data the front 02's show-----The rear 02's are only there to report the condition of your cats and have NO affect on how your engine runs
A bad front 02 sensor will flatline at .450 millivolts---As a safety once they flatline they will run pig rich rather than lean as a engine saftey They are just like sprak plugs once they foul they are junk !!!
PS IF you have LT headers and maybe even some shorty hdrs this is why they foul-
Especially with LT headers the front 02 locations are moved as much as 3 ft further back-----This makes them not heat up correctly and read in correctly-- That's why LT's are illegal in most states---Tuning helps but there is no 100% fix
If you have stock exhaust chances are you need new front 02's---Someone with a scannercan tell you if your 02s are dead or not They are cheap--just changes them--Make sure to clear the code after you change them !
P1134 is for a fouled 02 FRONT sensor on the driver's side------The front 02's are very imprtant as they command all of your P/T fueling based on the data the front 02's show-----The rear 02's are only there to report the condition of your cats and have NO affect on how your engine runs
A bad front 02 sensor will flatline at .450 millivolts---As a safety once they flatline they will run pig rich rather than lean as a engine saftey They are just like sprak plugs once they foul they are junk !!!
PS IF you have LT headers and maybe even some shorty hdrs this is why they foul-
Especially with LT headers the front 02 locations are moved as much as 3 ft further back-----This makes them not heat up correctly and read in correctly-- That's why LT's are illegal in most states---Tuning helps but there is no 100% fix
If you have stock exhaust chances are you need new front 02's---Someone with a scannercan tell you if your 02s are dead or not They are cheap--just changes them--Make sure to clear the code after you change them !
I have LT and I believe I have the rear O2’s tuned out. I got the O2 sensors to replace tomorrow but the plugs seemed to of done the trick.
If you have a code for o2 sensor, then it's pretty much guaranteed that you're running way out of tune. It's possible that swapping plugs temporarily cleared it up by getting rid of a fouled one (due to running out of tune). But definitely get those new sensors in there ASAP. They're very easy to replace.
Also the side with the failing 02 sensor will create an imbalance of fueling between the left and right banks As the side with the good 02 is self correcting the AFR ratio to stoich during part throttle but the side with the bad 02 is confused and making ridiculous adjustments !!!! Saying that it clears up when you floor the throttle confirms this --As when you go into power enrichment and floor the throttle the front 02's are turned OFF and NOT used for fueling at all --- so there is no imbalance between L/R as during P/T---
Also the side with the failing 02 sensor will create an imbalance of fueling between the left and right banks As the side with the good 02 is self correcting the AFR ratio to stoich during part throttle but the side with the bad 02 is confused and making ridiculous adjustments !!!! Saying that it clears up when you floor the throttle confirms this --As when you go into power enrichment and floor the throttle the front 02's are turned OFF and NOT used for fueling at all --- so there is no imbalance between L/R as during P/T---
True, and similarly why a vacuum leak doesn't affect WOT ... the ECM ignores all the sensor data.
A vacuum leak WILL affect WOT fueling !! As it is Un METERED AIR that the MAF is not reading and then there is no fuel compensation to correct it during PE ----It will as well make your fuel trims work very hard and go crazy to try and correct the AFRs at PT
A vacuum leak WILL affect WOT fueling !! As it is Un METERED AIR that the MAF is not reading and then there is no fuel compensation to correct it during PE ----It will as well make your fuel trims work very hard and go crazy to try and correct the AFRs at PT
Uhh, no, all air is un-metered at WOT as the MAF signal essentially gets ignored. Try it for yourself if you don't believe me. Leave the air bridge loose enough that you can barely idle then go for a drive. Once you floor it, everything is perfect again.
Uhh, no, all air is un-metered at WOT as the MAF signal essentially gets ignored. Try it for yourself if you don't believe me. Leave the air bridge loose enough that you can barely idle then go for a drive. Once you floor it, everything is perfect again.
not that I've ... ever done that
Un metered air affects all your engines driving More at idle and at P/T and less at WOT However any un metered air will tend to run your engine lean at even WOT although it may not be much it is enough to create a mismatch from your "commanded AFR" in PE vs your acual AFR reading with a wideband--
YES you can trick your ECM by commanding a richer AFR to get an actual AFR at WOT but that is NOT ideal for perfect tuning Ideally you want the commanded AFR to match your actual AFR with the wideband------The MAF reading is used only during "rapid changes in airflow" as a back-up referance--so if the un metered air is not being recorded you will get erroneous MAF back-up corrections at WOT or PE--- Unmetered ir is always bad theECM does not seperate from P/T and WOT fueing dues to a vacuum leak---
Uhh, no, all air is un-metered at WOT as the MAF signal essentially gets ignored. Try it for yourself if you don't believe me. Leave the air bridge loose enough that you can barely idle then go for a drive. Once you floor it, everything is perfect again.
not that I've ... ever done that
All air IS metered at idle and WOT "unless" you have a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor !!...the MAF signal does not get ignored at WOT !!...and the only reason the car runs better at higher RPM's with a vacuum leak is because you have LESS vacuum at higher RPM's and that vacuum leak has less of an overall effect with all that incoming air...that is why your car ran better at higher RPM.....this is a great way of diagnosing a vacuum leak...high fuel trim numbers at idle that decrease at higher RPM's....it could also be fuel delivery but that has to be further diagnosed !!