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So my vert is a 2000 with 179000 Miles roughly. I got the car in August as a birthday present. Yes a birthday present. My wife has known my passion for one since we meet 18 years ago with that being said let’s talk about the problem. I got the car home drove it for a couple days and the shift cable broke. Got that fixed wasn’t terrible. So then I get code 1243 pump failure. Checked my google machine it brought me here back then. I found lots of suggestions on fixing it here from using a wire to jump it to lifting the rear and Letting the tires roll in gear. That somewhat worked till it blew the fuse and causing code 1217. Couldn’t reset it after that. So that brings me to yesterday. I took the car out it the rain stopped I knew the roads were slick so I ate out on a little test I went to an empty lot I brought up codes as I tried to have the abs/tc codes clear I mashed the brakes doing about 25-30 mph to try and engage the abs and I couldn’t believe it it actually was working I could feel my abs working it took like 10-15 times of doing this but since the light has gone off I now have tc and abs even tried the competing driving mode and it’s working. Anyone have any other suggestions if this doesn’t last. I know my EBCM isn’t one that can be soldered.
I have also a 2000 C5 and have been looking into this fact , Our EBCTM has two relays , one for the solonoids and one relay for the abs pump .
Code 1217 is pump motor relay Contact circuit open. I bought a cheap EBCTM from a 1999 cadillac Seville which is very similiar to my 2000 EBCTM according t0 the schematics and I tried to remove and resolder one of the two relays .
I was able to do it on this EBCTM but I have not tried if works on a car . My EBTCM is working perfect in my car , but If I get 1217 (pump relay) or 1214 (solonoid relay) in the future I will change these relays by my self .
The only problem I experienced is that the relay circuit card has two sided soldering and can be tricky to get resoldered , but with a correct way of soldering it should be possible .
I destroyd a part of the printboard to one of the pins and had to make a new wire to compensate for it.
I made a thread in my Norwegian Corvette Club forum with a lot of photos . If you use google translate , you should understand most of my words
Hope this info helps http://www.corvetteclub.no/forum/10/7738?p=50785#p50767
I have also a 2000 C5 and have been looking into this fact , Our EBCTM has two relays , one for the solonoids and one relay for the abs pump .
Code 1217 is pump motor relay Contact circuit open. I bought a cheap EBCTM from a 1999 cadillac Seville which is very similiar to my 2000 EBCTM according t0 the schematics and I tried to remove and resolder one of the two relays .
I was able to do it on this EBCTM but I have not tried if works on a car . My EBTCM is working perfect in my car , but If I get 1217 (pump relay) or 1214 (solonoid relay) in the future I will change these relays by my self .
The only problem I experienced is that the relay circuit card has two sided soldering and can be tricky to get resoldered , but with a correct way of soldering it should be possible .
I destroyd a part of the printboard to one of the pins and had to make a new wire to compensate for it.
I made a thread in my Norwegian Corvette Club forum with a lot of photos . If you use google translate , you should understand most of my words
Hope this info helps http://www.corvetteclub.no/forum/10/7738?p=50785#p50767
I have been researching this issue myself. Besides a Seville, the Eldorado has the same top board (down to the number stamped on the board). I was wondering why you swapped out relays, The board is the same, you could just unsolder the Seville one and install that board in your corvettes EBCM when the time comes if needed. You are using the correct de-soldering tool for these boards. I messed one up using a soldering iron and separate solder sucker. Bought one of those pictured in your link and it's so easy to de-solder the top board from the EBCM. Can have it out in 5 minutes. You are correct though. Pulling those relays is a pain. Wide pins, lots of solder. I picked up as much solder as possible and then used a heat gun to soften the solder that was left on all 4 pins at once and then pulled the relays. Makes it a bit easier.
Some of these early EBCMs failings have to do with issues on the top board. Cheap Cadillac EBCMs with the same top board can fix some of them cheaply.
This one below is out of a 99 Cadillac ElDorado.
Last edited by RedRiderZR1; Jan 10, 2019 at 08:40 PM.
I swapped one of the relays on the cheap Cadillac just to see how it could be done and to get the experience .
To desolder the relay card and replace these relays is not the hardest part I think .
The challenge is to get enough solder on the lower side of the printcard when resoldering the card into the EBCTM again .
I think you have use enough heat on each pin to allow solder to flow down to the lower solderingpoint (lower side of card) , but at the same time avoid to fry the card with solering iron.
I am not afraid to get code 1214 and 1217 on my car after this little practice
I swapped one of the relays on the cheap Cadillac just to see how it could be done and to get the experience .
To desolder the relay card and replace these relays is not the hardest part I think . The challenge is to get enough solder on the lower side of the printcard when resoldering the card into the EBCTM again. I think you have to have enough heat on each pin to allow solder to flow down to the lower soldering point (lower side of card), but at the same time avoid to fry the card with the soldering iron.
I am not afraid to get code 1214 and 1217 on my car after this little practice
That is not an issue. There is continuity through the board to the bottom of the card. The trace runs through the holes. So all you have to do is make sure you have it soldered on the top of the board ok and it will be fine.
Thanks for that info , I was not aware that there is continuity through the holes . Then it it should be no problem to replace these relays or replace the relaycard if needed
I had the same code and while attempting to exercise the pump I blew the 40 amp fuse under the hood. Put in a 50 amp fuse and exercised the abs with my tech 2 around 10 times. Been about a month and haven’t had any abs issues since! After the code went away of course I put a new 40 amp fuse back in
Last edited by skittlenips; Jan 12, 2019 at 01:56 PM.
So my vert is a 2000 with 179000 Miles roughly. I got the car in August as a birthday present. Yes a birthday present. My wife has known my passion for one since we meet 18 years ago with that being said let’s talk about the problem. I got the car home drove it for a couple days and the shift cable broke. Got that fixed wasn’t terrible. So then I get code 1243 pump failure. Checked my google machine it brought me here back then. I found lots of suggestions on fixing it here from using a wire to jump it to lifting the rear and Letting the tires roll in gear. That somewhat worked till it blew the fuse and causing code 1217. Couldn’t reset it after that. So that brings me to yesterday. I took the car out it the rain stopped I knew the roads were slick so I ate out on a little test I went to an empty lot I brought up codes as I tried to have the abs/tc codes clear I mashed the brakes doing about 25-30 mph to try and engage the abs and I couldn’t believe it it actually was working I could feel my abs working it took like 10-15 times of doing this but since the light has gone off I now have tc and abs even tried the competing driving mode and it’s working. Anyone have any other suggestions if this doesn’t last. I know my EBCM isn’t one that can be soldered.
Just guessing here. That code indicates the pump motor isn't turning or is turning too slowly. That can be caused by a high impedance short in the pump motor which then lowers the source voltage, a low voltage source coming from the EBTCM due to a relay problem in the EBTCM or a mechanical problem with the pump that is slowing the motor. Based on your results it sounds like there may have been a mechanical issue with the pump restraining the motor (when a motor isn't turning at its proper speed it draws more current thus dropping the source voltage). By activating the ABS you caused it to turn sufficiently to free it up so it reliably passes the ABS self test that is run every time you start the engine and get the car speed above 6 mph. How long has it been since the brake fluid has been replaced? How long has it been since an ABS Automated Bleed has been done to get old brake fluid that can be caught behind valves inside the modulator valve out of the pump. For now, keep activating ABS or TC to keep the pump working.
The relay in the EBTCM could be failing as well. Usually the relay fails when the pump shorts or starts turning more slowly thus consuming more current which then burns the relay.