Clutch replacement
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 518
Likes: 36
From: Indiana
Also, I got lucky and my torque tube was the older style with bolts holding it together rather than the enormous snap ring. If you have the snap ring, inquire at a local GM dealer on whether you can rent or borrow the giant snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. GM designed this tool specifically for this task. Is it needed? No. Will it make the job quicker and safer? Yes.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 50
From: Clayton, NC north carolina
Did mine last week... Mcleod RST, remote speed bleeder, revised rear main seal cover, Sac city vette barbell Driveshaft shop poly couplers SKF bearings, sac city vette rear dif mount.... had it out in about 3 hours... (understand that I have been a prelesional mechanic 29 years) as fgar as the big snap ring.... the correct tool for the job makes all the difference.... get this....
Last edited by ASRoff; Jan 17, 2019 at 02:39 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 169
Likes: 16
When doing this on jackstands, what are you guys doing with the front engine mounts and/or front cradle, anything?
I know its not much at front and to keep an eye on firewall but...It’s not clear to me how you can pivot the entire driveline down without potentially stressing the rubber in motor mounts. Are you guys loosening motor mounts or dropping the front cradle slighting to ease removal of TT and get to clutch?
I know its not much at front and to keep an eye on firewall but...It’s not clear to me how you can pivot the entire driveline down without potentially stressing the rubber in motor mounts. Are you guys loosening motor mounts or dropping the front cradle slighting to ease removal of TT and get to clutch?
Last edited by tungstenfoot; Jan 21, 2019 at 06:58 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 50
From: Clayton, NC north carolina
the engine is balanced really well... you can move it with your hand with the belhousing in place to get the angle right.. I just drove the car onto race ramps so I did not really have to worry about any C.G. issues...
one more "pro tip" if you are rebuilding the Torque tube, Install the clutch before you put the T.T. Back together.. then you can just use the T.T. input shaft to line up your clutch disc (or in my case Disc's) much better than a plastic tool....
one more "pro tip" if you are rebuilding the Torque tube, Install the clutch before you put the T.T. Back together.. then you can just use the T.T. input shaft to line up your clutch disc (or in my case Disc's) much better than a plastic tool....
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 145
Likes: 8
From: Nashville, TN
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 335
Likes: 139
I was dealing with knocking under the floor. It turned out to be my x-pipe hitting the passenger side floor pan. After adjusting the exhaust, all was well. Do you have aftermarket exhaust? When does the knocking/tapping occur? What other mods do you have?
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 145
Likes: 8
From: Nashville, TN
I rebuilt the TT as preventative maintenance. However, upon inspection both of my couplers were bad and needed replacement and I had a crunchy leaking bearing that needed a replacement too. So I decided to do all of the bearings as well.
I was dealing with knocking under the floor. It turned out to be my x-pipe hitting the passenger side floor pan. After adjusting the exhaust, all was well. Do you have aftermarket exhaust? When does the knocking/tapping occur? What other mods do you have?
I was dealing with knocking under the floor. It turned out to be my x-pipe hitting the passenger side floor pan. After adjusting the exhaust, all was well. Do you have aftermarket exhaust? When does the knocking/tapping occur? What other mods do you have?
I checked the exhaust to see if it was loose, but felt secure. Didn’t check for side to side play though. I’ve had this exhaust on for 3 years now. The tapping noise just started a month ago.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 335
Likes: 139
Something you can do to eliminate the mid pipe as the source is to place a shim between the mid pipe and the floor and take it for a drive. The shim will act as a buffer and fill in the gap to absorb any contact. If the sound persists, it's likely something else. But at least you can eliminate the mid pipe. I have found that the process of elimination will help to pin point specific issues.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 145
Likes: 8
From: Nashville, TN
Something you can do to eliminate the mid pipe as the source is to place a shim between the mid pipe and the floor and take it for a drive. The shim will act as a buffer and fill in the gap to absorb any contact. If the sound persists, it's likely something else. But at least you can eliminate the mid pipe. I have found that the process of elimination will help to pin point specific issues.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 90
Likes: 10
Master cylinder
I don’t agree with the earlier post that the master cylinder causes the sticking clutch issue, at least not in my case. I Had a very bad sticking clutch issue and it completely went away when I replaced my worn out clutch with a new monster LT 1S and slave cylinder. Since the master cylinder can be replaced without dropping the rear again you can always do it later if it becomes an issue but I don’t think it will as long as you keep up on fluid changes. I’ve been hitting my car with a 150 shot and it still doesn’t stick now. Now my biggest issue is trying to keep the rear end together !
Racer
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 335
Likes: 139
Great! Glad you found the source of your issues. Chasing down sounds can be a bit of a wild goose chase sometimes.
You were correct, the noise ended up being the exhaust hitting the under side of the car. It happened again today when I a sparkplug wire come loose, dropped a cylinder, making the motor run rough. Thus it made uneven exhaust pulses, which made the exhaust vibrate and hit the tunnel.