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This upcoming spring I have decided to address my sticking clutch. It appears that when the car is hot occasionaly the clutch pedal will stick to the floor or the clutch might slip when hitting the nitrous. I know its really hard to bleed the clutch. I have done the ranger method, but it still sticks occasionally. I'm going to address the issues while its apart. Clutch, torque tube bearings, couplers, and master/slave cylinders.
I'm looking at the LS7 clutch and re-surfaced flywheel. Should I go with OEM or aftermarket Master/Slave Cylinder? Is there anything else that should be done while its apart?
I just did the clutch et al on my ‘99 FRC 2 weeks ago in my garage. It had 80,000 miles on the stock unit.
I replaced the clutch with a monster level 2 and 18lb flywheel. The kit came with a pilot bearing, new bolts and a slave cylinder (measured and no shims were needed). Ordered from Tick.
I also installed a tick remote bleeder.
I had the transmission rebuilt by RKT Performance while it was out.
Rebuilt the torque tube with new bearings and couplers.
Replaced both axle seals and the driver’s side O-ring in the differential.
Was as a big job, but well worth the time and effort.
Please PM me with any questions. Feel free to PM your number and we can talk through any questions you might have including part numbers, tips, etc.
I was considering doing this job myself, but I just have some jackstands and I have a feeling that this job is just too big to do without a lift. I don't have any issues with my transmission today, although I would like to know if I should look at replacing linkage for my shifter or not. That was the only item that I had questions about. I have seen some other posts where someone replaced their linkage with a good aftermarket U Joint.
This upcoming spring I have decided to address my sticking clutch. It appears that when the car is hot occasionaly the clutch pedal will stick to the floor or the clutch might slip when hitting the nitrous. I know its really hard to bleed the clutch. I have done the ranger method, but it still sticks occasionally. I'm going to address the issues while its apart. Clutch, torque tube bearings, couplers, and master/slave cylinders.
I'm looking at the LS7 clutch and re-surfaced flywheel. Should I go with OEM or aftermarket Master/Slave Cylinder? Is there anything else that should be done while its apart?
The stock Master is the problem if install a stock one you'll be back were you started , the Tick one stops this sticking problem .. I have friend 2013 Z his will at times do the same thing so I thinking that sticking deal is not just the C-5s.. I fixed my 04 Z with a Tick master but it won't fix slipping.. If you ask why whey stick you'll get 20 answers.. GM says they don't stick..... RIGHT .. Not our problem ..
The job, while a big one, can be completed without a lift. I did it with heavy duty jack stands that I purchased on Amazon. I had the transmission rebuilt due to a leak between the trans and extension housing plus the higher mileage. I didn’t want to pull it out again. Once apart, it was in surprisingly good shape inside.
Now that I’ve had everything out once, I wouldn’t hesitate to do it again if I needed to.
Like you, I struggled with having a shop do it vs. doing it in my garage. A lift would have made it easier, but there’s nothing like the satisfaction of doing a major repair on your own.
I did not replace any component of the shift linkage.
Well Effen done. That is a huge job and you did it with "limited" infrastructure. You put me to shame when I complain about smaller jobs. from now on I'll just shut up and fix it.
Well Effen done. That is a huge job and you did it with "limited" infrastructure. You put me to shame when I complain about smaller jobs. from now on I'll just shut up and fix it.
Many thanks for the kind words. I contemplated this job for about 4 months before I decided to give it a go. I researched it to death and found everything I needed on this forum. It’s not my daily, so I had time to wait for parts and take my time. Although the wife lost her spot in the garage for about 2 weeks.
And watching Rick at RKT Performance tear apart my transmission in under 20 minutes was a real treat.
Not to mention the savings in labor cost. More money for more mods!
I had my drivetrain out 3 times in 2018 and all I used was jack stands. But I would recommend a different clutch. TheLS7 weighs a lot and for a little more money's you can get something better. I've had 2 corvettes, both with sinking pedals. Both times I replaced with monster clutches and never had the problem again. The last one I didn't already had an LS7 clutch in it.
Thank you, though I have to give an abundance of credit to the folks on this forum and this supportive community. They gave me the confidence and direction to proceed with this job.
I have heard a lot of good things about the LS7 clutch. I would maybe consider a lighter flywheel to offset the rotational mass.
Is there another clutch that handle 550 whp that isn't crazy expensive?
I went back and forth on which clutch to buy and install. It came down to the LS7 vs. Monster clutch. A phone call to a local performance shop with a well-known national Corvette race team pushed me away from the LS7 unit. I then called Tick Performance and had a nice conversation with a gentleman named Eli. He was very knowledgeable and helped form my decision on the Monster Level 2 package.
I have about 300 miles on the new clutch and flywheel and can report that the clutch pedal feels very close to stock. No issues to report at this time. I am satisfied with my decision. My car is putting down 380hp at the rear wheels.
There are several reputable aftermarket clutch manufacturers. If you do enough research you’ll find pros and cons for each and second guess yourself to the point of insanity.
If you don’t have a press, lineup a machine shop ahead of time to press the bearings off and on your torque tube prop shaft.
Also, I got lucky and my torque tube was the older style with bolts holding it together rather than the enormous snap ring. If you have the snap ring, inquire at a local GM dealer on whether you can rent or borrow the giant snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. GM designed this tool specifically for this task. Is it needed? No. Will it make the job quicker and safer? Yes.
Yea,, Rick Kim of RKT Performance is AMAZING at anything to do with C5/C6 drive trains.
If you want better shifting, replace the lower shift box with a modified shift box that one of the forum members makes. It has bearings instead of bushings and is MUCH more accurate. Its an amazing up-grade.
If the universal joints on the shift linkage are worn and have excessive slop, you can replace them with a replacement universal joint.
I do ALL my drivetrain work on jack stands. Works fine if you don't have a LIFT!!
Yea,, Rick Kim of RKT Performance is AMAZING at anything to do with C5/C6 drive trains.
If you want better shifting, replace the lower shift box with a modified shift box that one of the forum members makes. It has bearings instead of bushings and is MUCH more accurate. Its an amazing up-grade.
If the universal joints on the shift linkage are worn and have excessive slop, you can replace them with a replacement universal joint.
I do ALL my drivetrain work on jack stands. Works fine if you don't have a LIFT!!
Bill
Whats the shift box called if you don’t mind me asking?
I already have a tModz box. I would like to get the u joints replaced on the shift linkage but I don't know how I could do that. I will be having a shop do this job
Clutch replacement
That's the one! 