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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 09:41 AM
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Default I need help please

I bought a 00 c5. The car ran great. Then one day I was driving normally, and the car randomly lost power but came right back on. It happened three or four times that day. The next night, the car shut off and would turn over and start, but would not stay on unless I held the key halfway between the on position and the starter engage position. Then it would stay running. Today, the car would not even turn over. Battery and starter are both good. I can’t think of anything. Any help? I bought a starter switch, but it hasn’t came in yet. Also, should I take the switch to a Chevy dealership to get the key made? Or where? The car has long tubes, and a nitrous express plate kit installed. The nitrous kit is not wired yet, so that’s not it.

These were the codes:
PCM

PO134 H C

Po137 h c

Po154 h c

Po157 h c

Po161 c

Po1571 h asr determined torque

Po1689 h c

TCS

C1245 h

BCM

Bo432 h

B2578 h

B2583 h

B2647 h c

B2723 h pass key detection circuit

SDM

U1016 h

U1040 h

U1096 h

IPC

B1543 h oil temp circuit open

HVAC

U1096 h

U1160 h

Bo338 h c

Bo348 h c

LDCM

U1016 h

RDCM

U1016 h

SCM

U1016 h

RFA

U1096 h

U1064 h

U1016 h

Last edited by SkylarP; Feb 27, 2019 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 09:58 AM
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Seems like you have a bad ignition switch contact block, so you do not need to have a new key made as the ignition switch contact block can be replaced with out having to replace the key cylinder.
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 10:01 AM
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SkylarP
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
Seems like you have a bad ignition switch contact block, so you do not need to have a new key made as the ignition switch contact block can be replaced with out having to replace the key cylinder.
Gotcha, I do believe the contact block is what I ordered. That’s the part that’s on the back of the cylinder that gets clipped to the two connections, correct?
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 10:18 AM
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You don't need another key made !!...when you remove the switch the key lock cylinder is removed from the ignition switch and reinstalled into the new switch !!...this is from my 2001 FSM....and DOES sound like a bad switch !!...if you want to verify a bad ignition switch connect your voltmeter red lead to battery positive and the black lead to PCM fuse #16...turn the key to START and read the voltage drop...should only be a few tenths of a volt max...try it again now between battery positive and the CRK fuse #14 (IP Fuseblock)...you are testing the voltage drop across the ignition switch !!

Last edited by C5 Diag; Feb 27, 2019 at 10:22 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 10:24 AM
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Most of those are H=history codes... clear all your codes so you get C= current codes
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 04:49 PM
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Bad ignition switch

Hopefully this .,..

Amazon Amazon

is what you ordered. And no, you will not need to rekey.

In the meantime, if you need to get down the road, you can actually take apart the switch and clean the contacts off. This is a temporary fix however, and they'll carbonize up again sooner or later. Get a new switch.
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