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So I have no questions on actually installing a balancer or torqueing the bolt as I have done it numerous times, but I noticed something odd last night.
Car has been on jack stands getting a multitude of things done this winter. I went to torque the balancer bolt last night. Mind you, the heads are off the car. I put the car in 6th gear, parking brake set, I even took a small board and put it between the back wheels to wedge against the caliper just in case the parking brake didn't hold... When I tried to torque the bolt, the crank would just spin, the rotating assembly would do its thing, but the rear wheels didn't move. I believe I may have attempted this in 5th as well, and maybe 4th gear. But I ended up using 2nd gear and it worked just fine..
Anybody have a thought to why the wheels wouldn't turn at all in the higher gears? Maybe I am just having a brain fart right now and the answer is obvious, but I like bugging everyone once in awhile LOL..
Anybody have a thought to why the wheels wouldn't turn at all in the higher gears? Maybe I am just having a brain fart right now and the answer is obvious, but I like bugging everyone once in awhile LOL..
Wouldn't a higher gear have less mechanical advantage?
I have always heard to put the car in 6th when torqueing the bolt. Essentially the motor should spin 1.9 times for every revolution of the rear end in 6th.. 1st would turn the motor 10.16 times for every revolution in the rear.
JUST A WILD GUESS: Did the opposite rear wheel spin??? You would have to lock BOTH rear wheels.
Your thinking " I have a Limited Slip Diff. How could that happen?" It can and does.
Try this. Lock down one rear wheel so it CAN NOT turn. Trans in N. Attempt to rotate the opposite rear wheel. A brand new diff will be very difficult to break free It will take some where near 100 ft lbs + to rotate it against the limited slip clutches. Repeat the same procedure for the other wheel.
A well worn diff will be down near 50-60 ft/lbs ~ If you have broken Belleville washers in the diff, it will be really easy to break that wheel free.
Just trying to figure where the slippage was... Let us know what you find..
JUST A WILD GUESS: Did the opposite rear wheel spin??? You would have to lock BOTH rear wheels.
Your thinking " I have a Limited Slip Diff. How could that happen?" It can and does.
Try this. Lock down one rear wheel so it CAN NOT turn. Trans in N. Attempt to rotate the opposite rear wheel. A brand new diff will be very difficult to break free It will take some where near 100 ft lbs + to rotate it against the limited slip clutches. Repeat the same procedure for the other wheel.
A well worn diff will be down near 50-60 ft/lbs ~ If you have broken Belleville washers in the diff, it will be really easy to break that wheel free.
Just trying to figure where the slippage was... Let us know what you find..
Bill
Bill,
You may be on to something. I only had a piece of wood wedged between one wheel and the caliper... But as I said, the parking brake was set. So essentially both wheels were locked. One just a little more than the other.
If its still in the air,, Give that break free test a go just to see how your differential fairs with equal break away torques for both rear wheels. One of my springs were broken One side was 75 ft lbs and the broken side was 38. Did some strange things on hard launches.
If its still in the air,, Give that break free test a go just to see how your differential fairs with equal break away torques for both rear wheels. One of my springs were broken One side was 75 ft lbs and the broken side was 38. Did some strange things on hard launches.
Bill
Before I even put a torque wrench on the axle nut, I could somewhat easily turn both sides with my hand.. Put the torque wrench on both sides and it was maybe 20 ft lbs...
Before I even put a torque wrench on the axle nut, I could somewhat easily turn both sides with my hand.. Put the torque wrench on both sides and it was maybe 20 ft lbs...
IF,,,,, The trans is in N and the opposite wheel is actually secure (from rotation), that my friend tells me that you have a BROKEN SPRING/s! You should STRUGGLE to rotate the wheel that you are testing.
If it were me, I would plan on doing some differential work. Its easier than you think! If you really want to play, you can do the C6 Differential parts install..... If not, get the C6 clutches and Belleview Springs, new seals and output shaft seals along with the BIG O RING between the trans and TT and get that diff back to square one. Doing this repair will NOT do anything to disturb the differential set up!
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 28, 2019 at 04:08 PM.
IF,,,,, The trans is in N and the opposite wheel is actually secure (from rotation), that my friend tells me that you have a BROKEN SPRING/s! You should STRUGGLE to rotate the wheel that you are testing.
If it were me, I would plan on doing some differential work. Its easier than you think! If you really want to play, you can do the C6 Differential parts install..... If not, get the C6 clutches and Belleview Springs, new seals and output shaft seals along with the BIG O RING between the trans and TT and get that diff back to square one. Doing this repair will NOT do anything to disturb the differential set up!
Bill
Well good thing is that all of the seals in the diff are only a year or so old. Bill, is there any good write up on changing the clutch packs and washers?
So just to update everyone.. I purchased 2 new C6Z clutch packs as well as 2 new C6Z HD Belleville springs. Dropped the diff off to my buddy who had a 25-30k mile diff from our friend's C6Z. He swapped out the clutch packs, springs, and all the gears/shafts from the C6Z diff. Below are some pictures of the bad stuff that came out.. You will notice the incredibly uneven wear on the clutch discs from the springs breaking and deforming.
Bill, thanks for the help on this one!! Car is going to feel brand new I bet haha
Why the HELL can't GM build something right the first time. Seems like every model update or earlier they improve things like Transaxle parts and make them a little stronger because it wasn't right in the first place. To me that's a false economy to do nickel and dime improvements all the time. Porchea came out with the G-50 Transaxle in late 85 and it was supposed to hold 600 HP and it was a long time before they ever got close to that. GM could have given us a 2008 Z06 style transaxle and clutch in the 1997 Corvette.
Last edited by curtbriggs; Apr 23, 2019 at 04:40 PM.
...If you really want to play, you can do the C6 Differential parts install..... If not, get the C6 clutches and Belleview Springs, new seals and output shaft seals along with the BIG O RING between the trans and TT and get that diff back to square one. Doing this repair will NOT do anything to disturb the differential set up!...
Originally Posted by mykream
...I purchased 2 new C6Z clutch packs as well as 2 new C6Z HD Belleville springs. Dropped the diff off to my buddy who had a 25-30k mile diff from our friend's C6Z. He swapped out the clutch packs, springs, and all the gears/shafts from the C6Z diff...
Replacing all gears and shafts should have definitely disturbed the differential setup. Did you guys followed the procedures to correctly set it up again?
Replacing all gears and shafts should have definitely disturbed the differential setup. Did you guys followed the procedures to correctly set it up again?
Plenty of people replace the output shafts and what not without needing to reset the ring/pinion.
With that much churned up metal in the diff, I would definitely replace the gear set and all the bearings. Those chunks are hardened spring steel (from the belleville washer) that don't just get flattened out when they pass through the gear mesh. When they get caught between the teeth of the gears, it will slightly deform the differential carrier moving the gear set out of position and causing whine. Often times this can crack the diff carrier, so I would inspect it thoroughly for cracks before reusing it.
With that much churned up metal in the diff, I would definitely replace the gear set and all the bearings. Those chunks are hardened spring steel (from the belleville washer) that don't just get flattened out when they pass through the gear mesh. When they get caught between the teeth of the gears, it will slightly deform the differential carrier moving the gear set out of position and causing whine. Often times this can crack the diff carrier, so I would inspect it thoroughly for cracks before reusing it.
There are no cracks in the diff. I check every time it comes out of the car. It has been out more times than I care to count, whether something happened or it just needed to come out for other reasons.
It is all back together and full of brand new amsoil.. ring gear looks good still. Bearings felt good as well, and didn't hang up. Bearings are maybe a year old and I would put my money on the washers being like that for at least a year and a half up to the point of Bill making me aware of this issue/cause.
Crank Bolt Torqueing Concern
