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C5 DIC codes, help needed

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Old Apr 1, 2019 | 11:43 AM
  #1  
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Default C5 DIC codes, help needed

Hello to the folk of corvette forum and greetings from Finland

Little bit of me; i´ve bought my first vette in late 2017, founded nice shiny black one and falled for it, no regrets... i had several american cars before, but this is my first vette.
Started solving few problems in 2018 when the car was starting to feel bit familiar... broken AC, FOB didn´t react at all with the car, small oil leak with transmission ( by the way this one is manual, like all sports car should be, in my opinion) those all take care of nowdays, but i have few DIC codes that keep´s coming back...

Codes are:
10-pcm p0113
10-pcm p1111
i understanded that these codes refer to IAT sensor, and more precisely hi-voltage...?
so i changed new IAT sensor that obiously didn´t do the trick, i feel like it´s related to power cable of the sensor is hitting ground and shortcut, so the hi-voltage ??

28-TCS c1241 i don´t know what this is ?

and

B0-RFA c2120 ( i have changed my rims and tires to 20" and didn´t done programming) this i believe, is wheel sensor problem causing this..?

Is the first 2 codes ones to light the engine light in dashboard? or does the c1241 cause it ?

Is there any known "usual" fault with this description ?

I know, it´s hard to read this text, but i try my best to write it correctly, since my language is finish...treat me gently, will ya ?
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Old Apr 1, 2019 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by paasse
Hello to the folk of corvette forum and greetings from Finland

Little bit of me; i´ve bought my first vette in late 2017, founded nice shiny black one and falled for it, no regrets... i had several american cars before, but this is my first vette.
Started solving few problems in 2018 when the car was starting to feel bit familiar... broken AC, FOB didn´t react at all with the car, small oil leak with transmission ( by the way this one is manual, like all sports car should be, in my opinion) those all take care of nowdays, but i have few DIC codes that keep´s coming back...

Codes are:
10-pcm p0113
10-pcm p1111
i understanded that these codes refer to IAT sensor, and more precisely hi-voltage...?
so i changed new IAT sensor that obiously didn´t do the trick, i feel like it´s related to power cable of the sensor is hitting ground and shortcut, so the hi-voltage ??

28-TCS c1241 i don´t know what this is ?

and

B0-RFA c2120 ( i have changed my rims and tires to 20" and didn´t done programming) this i believe, is wheel sensor problem causing this..?

Is the first 2 codes ones to light the engine light in dashboard? or does the c1241 cause it ?

Is there any known "usual" fault with this description ?

I know, it´s hard to read this text, but i try my best to write it correctly, since my language is finish...treat me gently, will ya ?
Welcome. You speak English better than some of the US Forum members!!

Always provide the year and model of your C5. There are big differences in the information that you need.

As for the DTCs that you have

The P-0113 &1111 Carefully inspect the connector, the wiring harness at the connector AND the entire engine wiring harness that runs down the drivers side of the engine along the area where the heads and manifold join. At the very back of the engine just behind the driver side fuel rail is a black metal bracket. That wiring harness BENDS AROUND that bracket and can chafe and damage the wires in that location and cause what you are seeing.

C-1241. Its the MAGNASTEER Sensor performance code (Variable Effort Steering Circuit Malfunction). There is a sensor on the steering rack. It has a small pigtail and connector. It can get oil soaked and or damaged easily Start by finding the connector on the rack (near the steering box part of the rack). Inspect the connector and wiring harness and get back to us.

C-2120 means that you have a TPM System Malfunction. Start with the fuse for the RFA Module and make sure that you have power on that fuse. There are TWO small test points on top of each fuse. Measure the test points to chassis ground (KEY ON). You should see full battery voltage on both test points.

Give us an up-date on the findings.

Bill C
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Old Apr 1, 2019 | 01:57 PM
  #3  
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Hei !!
To expand on what Bill said the IAT is a simple 2 wire thermistor...hotter the intake air temp the less resistance and the more voltage you will see with a DVOM...don't know what year but my '01 IAT wire colors are TAN (sensor signal) and purple (low reference-ground)...with the MAF sensor UNPLUGGED and key ON you should see 5 volts on the TAN wire and LESS THAN 100Mv on the purple wire..mine reads .02 volts plugged in...with the connector reinstalled you can see in the picture my voltage on the signal wire is 2.80 volts (intake temp on my scan tool was around 72 degrees Fahrenheit...let me know what you see !!…


Last edited by C5 Diag; Apr 4, 2019 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2019 | 02:41 PM
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Hey, thanx for quick reply on matter, i forgetted THE most essential info regarding car manuafactory year with´s is 2000 LS1.
If it matters, car has seen some tech modifications via former owner, bbk intake/headers and full exhaust system by same brand, these i know for sure cause i´ve seen em. dyno braking gives 430 hp. ( IAT sensor was original when compared to new stock part)

Offtpic: It was truly helpfull topic what bill wrote about grounding points and cleaning them properly, i got my central lock working properly after grounding maintenance and some soldering inside the fob... Tried to find some hacks in local vette forum, but i tought that maybe you guys know American cars best and found this forum and it´s awesome, full of knowledge... have to give credit for that.

I will be testing those advices and report back when done...





Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Hei !!
To expand on what Bill said the IAT is a simple 2 wire thermistor...hotter the intake air temp the less resistance and the more voltage you will see with a DVOM...don't know what year but my '01 IAT wire colors are TAN (sensor signal) and purple (low reference-ground)...with the MAF sensor UNPLUGGED and key ON you should see 5 volts on the TAN wire and LESS THAN 100Mv on the purple wire..mine reads .02 volts...with the connector reinstalled you can see in the picture my voltage on the signal wire is 2.80 volts (intake temp on my scan tool was around 72 degrees Fahrenheit...let me know what you see !!…

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Old Apr 4, 2019 | 12:52 PM
  #5  
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paasse
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Well, found that IAT sensor wire was broken near the connector, invisible to eyes, wire was lookin good on the out side but when bended a little bit it broke, dunno if it fixed the problem cause i haven't test drived yet. I reseted codes ( there was also for the first time ever even more codes ex. U0116, U1064 and U1096) AFTER wire was fixed... don't know if it' related...
Got rational and consistant number when measuring the IAT sensor afterwards.
Those codes dissapeared after reset except one, that magnasteer related code, it just pop right up when trying reset. Over and over again.

Tryed to look for steering related sensors and found one in foot room, over the pedals. There was connector and it was looking good, not really sure what i was looking for, bill you mentioned pigtails and a connector ? I couldn't understand what it meaned so don't know what to look exactly...

Same thing with the fuses for rfa and testing points... is it in under the hood fusebox or inside the car fusebox or somewhere else... ?

Kinda stuck right now with the issue...

sensor i found is in the picture, green and round lookin on steering column.
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