Hey kids, I'm looking in to swapping my trans to a TR6060, and I'm curious what parts I should look into swapping while I'm in there while also trying to keep a budget in mind? What's necessary and what's not? My car is nearing 180k so I would think there would be things in need of replacement.
The clutch and flywheel are some obvious ones. Also should I just re-surface and lighten the old flywheel?
Once all is said and done I'm aiming to make 700whp. So I need to make sure it all holds up. Not a drag car, but I do enjoy the occasional launch on some sticky street tires.

Thanks for the help!

Also pic for attention. Computer case I built themed after my car. Even has yellow LED'S, but they're not hooked up yet

 

At that mileage I would strongly consider selling and buying an already built car if you really want 700hp, If you found a properly built car it would save thousands of dollars. I know what I spent to get far less than that and would do it different if I could do it over.

 

I was expecting the worst so that comes as no surprise. I suppose that my biggest goal is to get an itemized list of the things that I need so I can order them
and have minimal time set backs. Most of the cars parts are either in good shape or have been serviced, drivetrain aside. Is there a solid way to check the diff and axles? Nether show an external distress. What about the torque tube as well? Do they get damaged or something?

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

Oh but where's the fun in that? I kind of enjoying taking things apart, and this car has measurable sentimental value to me.

 

what kind of budget?... for the power you want make the 08+ z06 or zr1 6060 might be a better choice for the gearing, the grand sport 6060's have the same gearing as the c5z and it tends to be too short the more power you add... the 08+ z06, zr1, and grand sport also have 30 spline output shafts (instead of 27 spline on the base and z51) so they will naturally be stronger which is what you want, you will obviously need a matching diff otherwise the trans and diff won't mate properly... also keep in mind that your current drivetrain parts are still worth money in good working condition so you can recoup some of the loss on the new stuff

 

What model do you have? Is it stock? If so you will have to have a pretty decent size budget to get to 700rwhp and build the drivetrain.

I just did a built TR6060 swap to my C5Z over this winter and I can tell you first hand that it is not budget friendly at all.

If you have a C5Z you wont have to touch the axles but here is a short list of drivetrain components.
New clutch/flywheel
New slave cylinder
New master cylinder
New remote clutch bleeder
New Quicktime bellhousing(be ready to grind the **** out of it)
Upgraded aluminum or CF driveshaft
New torque tube bearings
Built TR6060 trans(whatever ratio meets your needs)
Built C6Z rear(3.42)
C6 rear cradle
RKT offset trans mounts
C6 lower rear A arms and leaf spring(not needed if you have coilovers)

 

Everything he said is true. I helped pay for most of my swap with the sell of my built trans and diff from my other c5.
I used offset mounts from a guy on fb, and a c6 cradle. reused my c5 lower arms and used coilovers in the rear.
I used a custom gearset in my tr6060 c6z1-4 zr1 5th 6th. I used a 07 base diff from a auto car, drilled for speed sensor and had the pinion gear machined for the 30spline.
Reused the flywheel that came on this car looked amazing the motor was replaced by gm prob 5k before i bought the car. Installed the rxt twin i had on the shelf
So happy i did it. Feels super solid even tho the c5z m12 had triple sycros.

 

My car is currently torn apart for the swap. Waiting on my flywheel to come back from McLeod (stock open injector ended up locking the motor and chipping a flywheel tooth off when the motor stopped, no engine damage thankfully) and time to get back to completing it. I have a steel flywheel.
My car already had a twin disc clutch and is lower mileage (87k). I am the insane guy building the drivetrain with C6Z goodies with just a head/cam setup as I want to do it and not worry about it again.

I went with a New TR6060 as I didn't want to deal with other people's misshifts
Used C6Z differential
C6 cradle
RKT56 converison kit with cooler delete. (Debating if I am selling the C6 cover or putting it on the shelf for later use if I decide to add back a cooler)
Also adding "while I am there"

• Full torque tube rebuild (ARP hardware, bearings, etc) to 12mm (had a 10mm) with DSS couplers
• ECS Torque Tamer and trans/diff bracing
• DEI tunnel heat shield
• Energy suspension poly control arm bushings (Going with C6 lowers and leaf spring. Reusing my DRM C6 Bilstein shocks)
• Replacing the Pilot bearing and slave cylinder/TOB. I just did it in August of 2017 but don't want to tear it apart again. Also my remote line was apparently near a header and melted a bit, so that is getting replaced.
• New starter assembly with more torque and proper heat shielding/exhaust wrap everything to avoid heat.
• New intake setup to remove some restrictions noted on the dyno

Everyone's goals are different. I want to be able to drag race my car and use the power it makes (445/411 right now)

The only thing I have to do is swap some parts over, grind some bits, and figure out the exhaust routing and re-assemble. As others have mentioned. It is NOT budget friendly, but you make your own decisions. For me the odds of finding another good condition White FRC that had the power I have (or goals I do in the future), slim to none, plus I had this car here and have dreamed of building one for years. I know the financial decisions I am making on this car are not sound but cars are rarely an investment and for me this is fun (the build, the customization, the optimization of the setup).

I should probably make a build thread....

 

I mean I'd like to spend not much more than 3k, assuming everything goes as planned, but does it ever? I can do nearly all labor myself which saves me a lot, as well as fabricating and machining anything I need for free, though I may not have the tools required to build a diff.
The transmission I'm looking at is a off a 2013 base model with 20k miles on it. From what your saying it sounds like it should be a near straight mate up to my OEM diff with a 27 spline count?(yes I know the tail housing has to be machined). It might be a little bit weaker but wouldn't it be a potentially way less expensive option? As well as it has better gearing right?
Hard to say what anything is worth without pulling it apart, but yes that does sound like a good plan.

 

Hard to say what I have could be worth much, but I'll try.
If you don't mind me asking what was the purpose of doing the gearing in the trans and diff the way you did?
I plan to run a modified 2.2 Eaton M112, so gearing may be important due to the low end torque output.

 

Imo
I'd rather have a c5 t56/ c6 diff vs tr6060 / c5 diff
I think the c5 diff is garbage strait up garbage. The size of the c6 case, the stronger design and the better mounting are points that should push you to a c6 diff. The MAN up near east Dallas convinced me to get rid of that before I went FI.
The c5 diff is weak af!

 

With boost coming in hard. I wanted a 1st and 2nd gear I also have a turbo so the added load will help. The 2.97 and 342 combo is a tire fryer.
If your going positive displacement / roots just look at the gearing of the zr1 with a pd blower. Roots are instant tq.
If it was me and you have a base c5 trans not a z06 I'd get a 315 or 342 c6 diff mated to your c5 trans. Or keep street tires with your c5 diff.

 

That sounds like a really fun build man! I'd definitely fallow your project.
That's some crazy bad luck with the injector though! I didn't even know that could happen haha!
I will look into doing some of those modifications and services as well. I'm sure my car needs it.

 

My transmission is near toast, I can either rebuild it or upgrade it, so the later makes more sense, especially since I'd be getting the transmission for a steal.
It seems the diffs are prone to cracking from what I've looked up recently? I'd love to upgrade the diff, probably one out of a ZR1 would be the best bet since I still hear complaints about regular C6 diffs. But I might just run the one I have till I can find a good deal on one. Those bad boys are stupid expensive! Not to mention all the other parts that are required to pop it into my car..

 

Meaning that you wanted to build boost faster? Aren't the Z06 gears slightly more aggressive than the Z06 gears?
I have the Z06 transmission and gear set, but the diff is probably the only thing I'd dare keep. Maybe running the base C6 transmission is the best happy medium between my current gear set and the ZR1? I don't do and drag racing, just a little bit of autocross and hopefully some regular track time soon.
Running 345 200AA tires in the back though which is kind of a scare though, even if they are street tires. I hope my diff will forgive me.

 

the early c6 diffs are like the c5 diffs.
I would get the reccomendations from other people, imo. I think I would still rather have a rebuilt c5z trans because of the triple sycros and what not paired with a c6 diff than tr6060/c5 diff.
I went thru 3Breaks in my old 03z, 1. spider gears and carrier case 2. oem 27spline trans shaft and split the c5z case and broke ears off the pinion support. 3. 30spline trans shaft. On the Rebuild from time 2 I installed the c6z pinion support and thats what saved the case when the mainshaft broke. After break 1 I put c6z shafts in and never broke those. Now I have zr1 tr6060 case with c6z 1-4 ratios and zr1 style 5th and 6th with oem 07 base diff with 30spline pinion. Over next winter im going to do new 3.42s or 3.15s and bigger pinion support.
I drove my car last night for the first time with the hotside complete and turbo and oil lines and tested for leaks. I had my manifolds and turbine housing ceramic coated and the whole ypipe wrapped with header wrap and the turbo powered red. The Fuel Pump should come out tomorrow to go to bret for a custom intank sys then to his place few weeks after for the tune.
Here are some pics of the c5 vs c6 tailhousing to diff mount and pics of a c6 vs c5diff. You should be able to see why i suggest the c6 diff vs anything else. c5<c6<c6z,zr1

5 vs 8 bolds

 

I'm not sure I catch your drift on the transmission diff combo. It was the TR6060 that got the higher synchro count no?
That's unreal that you managed to break that much stuff, but it definitely changed my ideas on my build.
I have to ask though, what is it that you use your car for? fragile or no you have to be putting an insane load on your drive train to break stuff like that?
I love the turbo setup! That's pretty wicked. What are the turbo specs?

 

I could be wrong but my total understanding from a tr6060 to m12 c5z t56 is the physical size of the gears. But they both use triple cone syncros.
I use my car for fun and beating on it.
I laugh when people make 500 600 plus hp and run street tires. Just being honest. I just dont get it why you would want traction in partial 3rd and 4th gear where is the fun.
My problem is my clutch foot needs to be slower on launch and little slower when hitting 2nd.
I still think that if your wanting power and traction, send your trans to Jason@texasdrivetrain or Jared@muricaperformance and fix what wrong with your trans and do new syncros and keys and pads. Sell your diff for 400-800 and get a c6diff and c6 t56 tailhousing
You can make your diff a stg x x x blah blah blah but the design and case is still weak!!!!

 

Everything that I've read up suggests that the t56 ran dual synchros, but I'm not an expert in these.
I'm glad that you drive it like it was meant to be driven. In my case, I just street drive my car and rarely hit the track, so drag slicks are a big no no haha!
Slower? Nah! Sounds like you need some straight cut gears!
The TR6060 is just so much better, no sense in spending more just to get an outdated trans rebuilt IMO. I'll definitely get the diff though. Won't my internals fit into an auto C6 diff? They seem to be much cheaper