JetJock

I have a 50th Anniversary coupe that has a bad ride since I bought it. The shocks were leaking so I replaced them. That did not 8mprove the ride quality at all. I just accepted it as it was. Last Saturday, I talked to Paul Koerner and he said check for the shock stuffers. I had the car jacked up and they were not there. The shocks were properly installed. The mechanic ran a diagnostic and found out the ride control was working properly. However, there were a bunch of codes that were shown.

Anybody else have have this problem ?

Roy

Tsumi

Is it lowered or otherwise modified in any way?

My Vette Life

look at your Bushings & tires

C5 Diag

What were the codes ??

JetJock

The codes were a result of a towing incident that severed a connector in the back of the car. The transmission shift cable had broken and they towed it to the shop by the tail end. After the wire was fixed, the codes were all in history and not applicable. There were codes for the ride control. I had a mechanic check out the car very throughly and found nothing wrong. The shocks aren’t leaking as they are relatively new and the computer was working correctly. All I know is that the ride sucks. My C4 rides better and so does my truck. No idea what is wrong. Shocks simply don’t work and the shock stuffers were removed.

Bill Curlee

Please post the DTCs that are present. You do know that you can use the DIC DTC reading function to CLEAR ALL THE HISTORY DTCs correct???

Here is how to use and interface with the DIC DTC functions:

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)



This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)

3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button

4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.



Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.



There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.



Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.



Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.

NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.



If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.



Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?

First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.



NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.

WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.



These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs



Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:



http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php



http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

JetJock

These are the codes that are present at this time:

10 - PO442 H C

P1 - RDCM B2263 H
P1 - RDCM B2265 H

fwiw, The guy that checked for shock stuffers did pull up a diagnostic sheet and erased the codes. I will take a quick drive and see if I can catch one while I’m driving. I work on C4’s and it took a while to catch one. I thought it was a bad injector and it turned out to be a camshaft position sensor on my ZR-1.

Roy

JetJock

I drove the car and no new codes. I cleared the history codes.

OneFast1

Just curious, did the mechanic check the ride selector switch and shocks to check for a voltage change between tour and sport mode? Do you think all four shocks are affected? If you can find a speed bump to drive over, it may help to see how it behaves with the tour mode setting? Should be fairly soft.

JetJock

I know that they didn’t do that. I think that the front ones are working, more or less. It’s the back ones that feel like he shocks are compressed. I’ve done the speed thing on the roads around here. Everything goes up in the air and comes down hard.

danmclaren

I went through this recently. It was a bad switch. I found one online and replaced the switch panel. Worth looking at.

Dan

Rick369

Just curious. You said you replaced all 4 of your F45 magnetic shocks. What was the total cost for them?

Smoken1

Your profile says you have an 04. So you have the F55 system not the F45 system

Rick369

He states he has an Anniversary Edition, so that would be a 2003, which is the F55. Interested in what he paid for 4 new F55 shocks.