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Key dying or ignition issue?

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Old May 15, 2019 | 09:36 AM
  #21  
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From: Anthony TX
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Originally Posted by SLO VETTE
Clean the key chip thing with alcohol and replace battery in key fob. That literally might be it.

Also check the ground for the fob which if I remember per another thread is right driver's side rear wheel well. Look at the chassis , you should see the ground. Might have gunk or paint on it. Be sure it's clean and tight.
As far as i know, there is no ground for the FOB. That rear wheel well ground (G-401) is for the FUEL PUMP.
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Old May 15, 2019 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SLO VETTE
Clean the key chip thing with alcohol and replace battery in key fob. That literally might be it.

Also check the ground for the fob which if I remember per another thread is right driver's side rear wheel well. Look at the chassis , you should see the ground. Might have gunk or paint on it. Be sure it's clean and tight.
The wife's key and fob are both pretty much brand new. I got them after I bought the car and she has driven it less than 5 times in 5 years. It behaved the exact same as my key, so I'm not sure that would be it.
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Old May 28, 2019 | 08:34 PM
  #23  
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So I am now getting the security light full time. I also got a charging fault and have had a no start condition a couple times (might be a separate issue).

Current codes:
BCM B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
IPC U1255 Generic Loss Communications
RDCM U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC

I had the traction control/abs go off randomly. Not sure of all these are related, or if my car is just getting long in the tooth. I noticed an oil drip, too.
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Old May 28, 2019 | 10:29 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 66dts-v
So I am now getting the security light full time. I also got a charging fault and have had a no start condition a couple times (might be a separate issue).

Current codes:
BCM B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
IPC U1255 Generic Loss Communications
RDCM U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC

I had the traction control/abs go off randomly. Not sure of all these are related, or if my car is just getting long in the tooth. I noticed an oil drip, too.
I re-refer you to post 17 You have a VATS issue B2723 WILL NOT allow the car to crank!!! Period! You must solve that issue before you go ANY further.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 28, 2019 at 10:34 PM.
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Old May 29, 2019 | 12:10 PM
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Ok Bill, just so I am clear, the VATs can cause BOTH a "Start and no go" AND a "No start" condition? The no start seemed like a battery type issue, but if they are both VAT related, that's my focus now.

Drove to work with no lights and no issues today, so that was nice.
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Old May 29, 2019 | 12:31 PM
  #26  
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You have an INTERMITTANT issue. The SECRET to figuring out what is causing your PROBLEM/S is/are:

Reading the DTCs immediately when the issue happens (BEFORE YOU TOUCH THE IGNITION SWITCH!!!!) Do NOT turn the ignition switch off and back on to read the DTCs

If you have ant messages on /in the DIC, press reset till they disappear and then read the DTCs. Post up ALL that are posted including the "H" & or "C" suffix's

NO, the VATS will not cause the 2 mph fuel cut off. If you have a VATS issue and attempt to repeatedly try to start the engine (after 3 attempts), the PCM will LOCK out future attempts for 12 mins!

YES, the VATS will cause NO CRANK issue.

The VATS and Column Lock have two completely different DTCs. That is why I stress that you read the DTCs when the problem/s is / are occurring.

Bill
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Old May 30, 2019 | 09:47 AM
  #27  
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Thanks a lot, Bill. That is how I usually run codes, at time of code, and clear if I can

Yesterday I had no messages and no lights (I had cleared everything the night before) to and from work. When I got home, I ran codes and the only one was the BCM 2723-H. It allowed me to clear it before I shut it off.

This morning the Security light has returned. No message was displayed on the DIC at start up, but the light stayed on once running.
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