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Was stuck in a parking lot for about 15 minutes. Car started and ran fine, but as soon as I started to let out the clutch and move forward it died. Tried reving it up, still dies. Waited a few minutes, tried again and was ok. Then my security light came on but went out.
Then went I was leaving for work this morning I noticed the doors didn't unlock when I put the key in. I pulled it out and tried again and it unlocked, but it wouldn't turn. Took a minute, then I was all good.
Not sure how old this key is, I will try the wife's new one tonight.
A few years ago, I had a similar experience. After reading many starting issues, I decide to do a passive fix/preventative procedure before I start replacing stuff. I wiped my key with alcohol and do so often. Every 6 months or so I spray electrical cleaner in the key hole. Today, no further issues. I also remove all the stuff on my key chain except the fob and house key. Hope your wife's key helps your situation.
A few years ago, I had a similar experience. After reading many starting issues, I decide to do a passive fix/preventative procedure before I start replacing stuff. I wiped my key with alcohol and do so often. Every 6 months or so I spray electrical cleaner in the key hole. Today, no further issues. I also remove all the stuff on my key chain except the fob and house key. Hope your wife's key helps your situation.
Electrical cleaner in key hole? I might try that as a preventative measure. Anyone have a reason why it should not be done?
It did it again at Safeway on the way home. I licked the key pill and wiped it off and got me home. I am taking the truck to work tomorrow anyway. I hope it's the key.
I had a similar experience, one of the tabs that the vats chip touches in the ignition broke in Wal-Mart's
parking lot. It would crank and drive for a few feet then die. I put some aluminum foil in the broke spot to get contact with the missing tab.
Last edited by 001pewter; May 9, 2019 at 10:55 PM.
My sensor contacts in the keyslot were bad. Got another whole ignition switch on Fleebay and had the lock tumblers rekeyed to match my ignition key, Locksmiths wanted a FORTUNE to do that.
Called around and found my Cheyy dealer would rekey it for $30. The cylinder is removable from the Ignition Switch but you still want it to be keyed to match the doors.
The problem that you are having is either a PULL KEY WAIT 10 seconds OR a VATS SECURITY ISSUE. You already stated that you have the LMC5 but, I'm pretty sure that you are seeing the fuel shut off due to the column lock issue. If the car starts and runs but shuts OFF when it is moved, that is a Column Lock Related fuel shut off. Are you sure that the LCM-5 is working correctly??
If it was security VATS issue the car would not crank at all. Look carefully at the DIC and at the security light in the IPC. Does it come on and go out when you insert the key and turn it to ON OR does it flash after the key is ON.
The very next time it happens,,,, Immediately "WITHOUT" turning OFF the Ignition, Clear any messages in the DIC by pressing and holding RESET until the message disappears and then read ALL the DTCs. Please post what DTCs you get. That will tell you what the cause of the problem is if, its VATs or Column Lock Related!!
The problem that you are having is either a PULL KEY WAIT 10 seconds OR a VATS SECURITY ISSUE. You already stated that you have the LMC5 but, I'm pretty sure that you are seeing the fuel shut off due to the column lock issue. If the car starts and runs but shuts OFF when it is moved, that is a Column Lock Related fuel shut off. Are you sure that the LCM-5 is working correctly??
If it was security VATS issue the car would not crank at all. Look carefully at the DIC and at the security light in the IPC. Does it come on and go out when you insert the key and turn it to ON OR does it flash after the key is ON.
The very next time it happens,,,, Immediately "WITHOUT" turning OFF the Ignition, Clear any messages in the DIC by pressing and holding RESET until the message disappears and then read ALL the DTCs. Please post what DTCs you get. That will tell you what the cause of the problem is if, its VATs or Column Lock Related!!
Bill
I agree with Bill if the resistor pellet wasn't read the starter would not engage and the security light would not go out. The problem you are having is in the BCM not seeing a keyin signal and shutting down the fuel pump and not releasing the column lock. The root cause is either a bad BCM or LMC5, to troubleshoot remove the LMC5 and see if the problem goes away (by the way in my case the LMC5 went bad).
Pass Key detection circuit is on the fritz... You have to troubleshoot and fix that first. Disconnect the ignition switch key chip sensor connector for the resistor pellet reader from the dash wiring connector under the column and see if you can read the resistance of the key chip on the key with the key in the ignition switch. Read the chip on the key with an OHM METER. The reading on the sensor connector must be the same resistance!!
If you can read the resistance on that side of the 2 wire connector, The ignition switch sensor is working. PS,,, The sensor contacts or the wiring out of the sensor is what fails 90% 0f the time..
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 13, 2019 at 02:24 PM.
Since the wife's key does the same thing, I will check the key reader to see if it shows 9 ohms to match the key and go from there. Thanks a lot for all the insight.
Clean the key chip thing with alcohol and replace battery in key fob. That literally might be it.
Also check the ground for the fob which if I remember per another thread is right driver's side rear wheel well. Look at the chassis , you should see the ground. Might have gunk or paint on it. Be sure it's clean and tight.
Last edited by SLO VETTE; May 15, 2019 at 12:23 AM.