I had to replace a dead HID ballast assembly for the ACA projectors I have. Got a pair of 55W Morimotos and figured might as well replace both while I'm at it. To do this I had to raise and lower the light buckets manually a number of times. First was the fitment difference, since I had to determine how to mount the unit and remote igniter to not conflict with the bucket movement but still have everything reach (ended up needing an extender from the car wiring to the ballast). Then they wouldn't work. After some head scratching, I determined that the polarity of the wiring on my car is backwards from that of the ballast. So flipping the connector, everything lit up nicely. Also popped in some new bulbs while I had everything apart.

Now I have that fabulous buckets-up on parking lights scenario. Happens on both sides. Go to parking lights and the buckets pop up. Turn to headlights and everything lights up nicely. Go back down to parking lights and the buckets stay up. Go to off and they stay up (which I didn't see mentioned in older posts I searched). So I have to manually lower them - which is not super convenient. No noise or grinding - they both raise and lower smoothly.

Last night after a drive, when I tuned everything off, and took the key out, with the driver's door open it chimed like I left the lights on. Same thing this morning when I opened the door - chimed like the lights were on, but were not. That is odd. So it thinks the lights are on?

I know the whole deal about replacing the gears with brass or turning them 180 degrees as a temporary fix, which I will probably end up doing. But my first question is has anyone else switched from one type of ballast to the Morimotos and seen this? I saw elsewhere that sometimes a load resistor is needed with a separate relay harness that connects the lights right to the battery (this is the setup on my truck with a different ballast mfr). My original 55W kit from Radioflyer plugged directly into the existing wiring with no relay or harness, so I just swapped the replacement ballasts in the same way.

My second question is,... is it possible with all those manual ups-and-downs and light tests, did I "confuse" the controller? If that is possible, how can it be "reset"?

Thanks.

 

You should ask username tsunami or something like that on here. He’s the self proclaimed headlight expert.

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

Sound like the issue is stable amperage draw. Just because an HID ballast claims 55w draw, it's not always accurate. HID Ballasts draw more power on a cold startup then stabilize to a lower current draw a few seconds later. The headlight control module is looking for a current change when the headlights shut off to trigger the headlight doors to close. This is why on startup, they open with no problem, but closing, the ballasts are pulling the lower "stable" current.

Our ballasts are carefully selected to be "True 55w" ballasts and maintain a stable amperage draw within the range required to trigger the headlight control module.

The "quick fix" has been to turn on your high beams, and turn off your headlights, this should trigger the doors to close.

 

[QUOTE=

The "quick fix" has been to turn on your high beams, and turn off your headlights, this should trigger the doors to close.[/QUOTE]
Yup I second that on the quick fix.

 

Does yours use the stock harnesses or do you have to run new harnesses up to the fuse box by the batter etc.?

 

Our harness plug into the factory harness. No need for additional relay harnesses.

 

Ok. Thanks. So you don’t have to install these long external harnesses towards the end of this video with your lights? Also, what is the difference with your lights? They look almost identical. Thanks.

 

I don't see a video. Link please?

 

 

The differences:

1) Our headlights feature Bi-xenon Projectors (The HID projectors have a low and high beam HID function using the same bulb. The low and high beam pattern is also substantially wider and sharper than the "stock" version)


"Stock" ACA low beam

Radioflyer Bi-xenon ACA low beam

"Stock ACA Low+ High beam

Radioflyer Bi-xenon ACA Low+ High beam


2) The "stock" ACA headlights have an inherent design flaw where the high beam is mis-aligned with the low beam causing the high beam to be aimed too low. Since the housing is a solid piece, there is nothing that can be done to change this. Our system corrects for this by using a flood-type pattern with the bi-xenon projector and the dedicated LED high beam making the mis-alignment hardly noticeable.

3) Our kit is completely plug-and-play to the factory connectors with no need to run separate relay harnesses from the headlights to the fuse box. A hi-4 harness is included to keep the low beams on with the high beams, but this is much less of a mess to install than the giant relay harnesses that normally come with the kit.

 

Thank you.

 

So you have an installation instructions pdf/link you can post?

 

https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/89d...bl7s_44396.pdf

It's an older install guide and the ballasts may look different, but the instructions are the same.

 

So phase 3 is running a harness to the fuse box. So it’s basically the same as the video and it’s not a “plug and play.” If you’re running harnesses and wiring in the engine bay it is NOT plug and play.

 

Yes, and no. The Hi-4 harness "plugs-into" the factory fuses. The term "Plug and play" commonly refers to not needing to cut, splice or solder any wires together. The "hi-4 harness is also not nearly as huge or difficult to run as the other harnesses as it stays completely within the battery compartment area.

 

This statement is misleading, sir. Your instructions LITERALLY require harnesses from the headlights to the fuse box.

 

I think there is a misunderstanding. The harness in our kit does not go from the fuse box to the headlights, the harness stays completely within the fuse box area.

 

In my ACA headlights, since they are bi-xenon I've had low-power LEDs installed in the high beam sockets for the "look". Never had a problem with the buckets acting like they are now.

I'll have to test the "highs on" turn off quick fix. I've probably done that a few times by accident as I was trying to figure it out, and didn't see a different result.

If that doesn't work with the LEDs as the highs, I'll plug in some halogens and see what happens. Thanks.

 

So what causes those led to not let the headlights go down?

Just not enought power to it?