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Yes, you’ll need to remove the power steering reservoir from up top, the hard lines at the steering box, PS rack mount to the subframe, and the tire rod ends to properly remove the rack. You’ll also need to remove the power steering cooler, if you have one. The hard line connections to the rack itself can be left attached.
Assuming you’ve got all the other components removed to swap the harmonic balancer, when you’re removing the rack you may find it easier to remove the bolts mounting the BCM/bracket to the subframe. That’ll allow you to pull the BCM bracket towards the front of the car, which will make maneuvering the PS rack out of the car much easier. Just be careful you don’t pull the BCM/bracket too hard since the brake lines will still be attached.
Thanks wscott62893. I'm doing this operation this September. I'm copying what you said and filing it.
helives4u2, Is there anything else you are going to do "while you're in there?" It was suggested to me to pin the crank, so I went and purchased the ATI pinning kit part #: 918993-1. Since you already have to pull the steering rack, there is a list of things that you might consider to do "while you're in there" like the following:
Replace the chain with a Katech C5R Timing Chain (never failed in C5R racing history)
BTR Timing Chain Dampener
New Timing Gears
DRM Steering Rack Bushing
Edelbrock Victor Series Pump 8896
Edelbrock Universal Water Pump Pulley 8898
New Thermostat (I haven't figured out which one yet)
Melling Oil Pump 10296 (high pressure spring if you are running an oil cooler)
New Belts and Coolant Hoses (If needed)
Perfect time to cam the car if not already done. (One mod I'm forgoing.)
I'm sure I'm missing something, but maybe someone else will chime in.
Just a thought.
Thanks wscott62893. I'm doing this operation this September. I'm copying what you said and filing it.
helives4u2, Is there anything else you are going to do "while you're in there?" It was suggested to me to pin the crank, so I went and purchased the ATI pinning kit part #: 918993-1. Since you already have to pull the steering rack, there is a list of things that you might consider to do "while you're in there" like the following:
Replace the chain with a Katech C5R Timing Chain (never failed in C5R racing history)
BTR Timing Chain Dampener
New Timing Gears
DRM Steering Rack Bushing
Edelbrock Victor Series Pump 8896
Edelbrock Universal Water Pump Pulley 8898
New Thermostat (I haven't figured out which one yet)
Melling Oil Pump 10296 (high pressure spring if you are running an oil cooler)
New Belts and Coolant Hoses (If needed)
Perfect time to cam the car if not already done. (One mod I'm forgoing.)
I'm sure I'm missing something, but maybe someone else will chime in.
Just a thought.
Good luck.
Spaggs
You're welcome. ARP balancer bolt also comes to mind. I'd add that to the "to-do" list. You've certainly got a good list already
Last edited by wscott62893; May 15, 2019 at 09:10 AM.
Thanks wscott62893. I'm doing this operation this September. I'm copying what you said and filing it.
helives4u2, Is there anything else you are going to do "while you're in there?" It was suggested to me to pin the crank, so I went and purchased the ATI pinning kit part #: 918993-1. Since you already have to pull the steering rack, there is a list of things that you might consider to do "while you're in there" like the following:
Replace the chain with a Katech C5R Timing Chain (never failed in C5R racing history)
BTR Timing Chain Dampener
New Timing Gears
DRM Steering Rack Bushing
Edelbrock Victor Series Pump 8896
Edelbrock Universal Water Pump Pulley 8898
New Thermostat (I haven't figured out which one yet)
Melling Oil Pump 10296 (high pressure spring if you are running an oil cooler)
New Belts and Coolant Hoses (If needed)
Perfect time to cam the car if not already done. (One mod I'm forgoing.)
I'm sure I'm missing something, but maybe someone else will chime in.
Just a thought.
Good luck.
Spaggs
I'm doing the timing chain dampner and the ARP Bolt with the Fluidampr SFI Spec 18.1,, doing silicone hose kit from HPS. And all AC-delco idle/tension pulleys.
I just dropped the cradle and only the rear is dropping down??? Anyone have a clue as to why? Everything is disconnected and rack is ready to come out
After the four cradle bolts are loosened, you will need to carefully/gently pry the front, then stick a wedge or shim in there until you are ready to bolt back up ( a 1/4 is about all to be expected to get from this)
After the four cradle bolts are loosened, you will need to carefully/gently pry the front, then stick a wedge or shim in there until you are ready to bolt back up ( a 1/4 is about all to be expected to get from this)
Awesome! I will do it in the morning, thank you, at least I'll be able to sleep tonight
The OEM GM damper is NOT pinned. Someone added that pin (normal procedure). Its important if you have major HP mods or are forced induction (belt driven)
You would need to get a damper pin kit and drill the damper and a new slot on the crank. The kit has a fixture that drills a 1/2 hole in the damper and in the crank so you can insert a new pin.
Unless there is a reason to add a pin as stated above, you can install the dampener without a pin. That's the way GM designed it. Was the dampener a real pain in the **** to get off??
The dampener is interference fit to the crank and the damper bolt just keeps it on the dampener so it doesn't walk forward.
The OEM GM damper is NOT pinned. Someone added that pin (normal procedure). Its important if you have major HP mods or are forced induction (belt driven)
You would need to get a damper pin kit and drill the damper and a new slot on the crank. The kit has a fixture that drills a 1/2 hole in the damper and in the crank so you can insert a new pin.
Yes, I was wondering why some of the bolts have wrench marks on them, now I know. So your saying not to use the existing half moon already cut into the crank? I'm wondering if it has a cam as well. Car will slide around at 90 going from 3rd to 4th gear. I found a kit for $80 for the stock hb
Unless there is a reason to add a pin as stated above, you can install the dampener without a pin. That's the way GM designed it. Was the dampener a real pain in the **** to get off??
The dampener is interference fit to the crank and the damper bolt just keeps it on the dampener so it doesn't walk forward.
You will be hard pressed to drill a half slot into the new dampener. You can get it machined in there but that would most likely cost you more than the new pin kit. LOL!
If you could drill or machine a slot into the new dampener that would fit the old pin, GO FOR IT.
Remember! DO NOT use the old bolt to try to press on the new dampener. You will strip out the first few threads in the crank!!!
I always use a heat gun to heat up the dampener HUB to approx. 120-130 degrees so that it goes on and or comes off a LOT easier.
So drill a new whole 180 from the other one, it should be fine?? I bought the balancer install tool along with the ARP bolt and timing cover tool from sac-city.