Last night about 8pm,was Going out for a drive, to my surprise no crank, lights in dash, lights pop up. I just went again this am, with both keys and nothing. A month ago did the same at Doctors office, left it there a couple of hours, roadside showed up to tow, I arrived with other key started right up. Ignition switch, security?

 

Could be either the ignition switch which then means security. Check the codes on the car and see what it's complaining about. Did you notice any DIC messages when it happened? Did you notice the security light?

 

When using the "suspect" key does the security light go out after a few seconds after you turn the key on ??

 

Complaining does nothing but vent your anguish. All we can do is GUESS and point you in general directions.

The NEXT time this happens, without turning the ignition off, "clear any DIC Messages" by pressing the "RESET" button on the IPC . Once any and all the messages are gone, use the built in DTC reading function to read the DTCs that are present. Post all of the DTCs that you have including the U series DTCs and any comms messages.

That way we can properly direct you in a good resolution sequence.

Bill

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)



This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)

3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button

4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.



Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.



There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.



Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.



Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.

NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.



If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.



Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?

First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.



NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.

WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.



These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs



Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:



http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php



http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

 

Codes HVAC 6 codes need blend doors
B 0361H, 0363H, 0365H,0367H, B0441HC
AO LDCM, B2282H,2284H,2272H,2264H U1064

AI RDCM, B2253H,2283H,2285H,2265H U1064
I cleared all, HVAC came up again. I pulled fuse 18, 23, 25 work with BCM. Can the security disable ignition?

P0327 and0332 HC knock sensor
P0171H, 0174H, P1221H, P1626H
U1160 H
My 9nly means of transportation, I just got a job offer too 🙏🙏

 

Bill Curler I didn't even think of that. In a very rough spot 8n my life right now, any and allassistance will be appreciated. 🙏

 

Yes check that the security light goes off before you turn the key to start, the security or VATS as we call it will not allow the car to crank over that is it's function. Next time it fails to crank check the TDR relay located above the BCM in the passenger footwell area, when you turn the key to the start position you should be able to hear that relay click on if it is being energized.
The TDR is what sends power to the starter solenoid, if that is working then you may have loose battery cable connections at the battery and or bad connections at the starter solenoid, or a starter solenoid that is starting to fail.

 

CALL ME ASAP!!

PM SENT!!!

Bill

 

Bill Curlee, thank you very much for your advice over the phone. It's nice to see out here in the Forum, members as yourself that share prior experiences with other Forum brothers. Car started right up after clanking the starter with a rod. You made my day, God bless and thanks again. Gonna keep number handy.
Nelson L

 

Is that the click that you can hear for example after the security light goes off and you turn the key to start but the car won't start?

 

That is the click you hear you hear when you turn the key to start and the car doesn't crank over, the click you never hear when everything is working correctly because it is drowned out by the starter cranking the engine over.

 

That's the click I get once in a while when the car won't start. I am going to re-tighten all my battery cables. If no change, I will start a new thread to try to repair it before I take it to my mechanic. Thanks for the help.

 

Your Welcome, make sure you disconnect your battery's negative cable when checking the cable connections at the starter solenoid.

 

Thanks for the reminder. I always disconnect the negative cable. Not a fan of fireworks under the hood.