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Gotta love emissions

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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 04:48 PM
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Default Gotta love emissions

Hey guys. So I've been fighting my car, it's a 97. I'm receiving code P0410. Air pump. Well, the pump works. Sorta. When the car is first started, it moves & does something, but no air is pumped or sucked in. This is confirmed directly at the pump. However, the pump has a plunger on the "out" port. This stops air from being delivered. Not sure how this is supposed to open, but it's not. If I take a screw driver & push the plunger down, boom, air flow.

Next problem is if I disconnect the pump from the check valves at the connection on the driver side by the alternator, I get vacuum from the check valve side. Is this normal?
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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 07:11 PM
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I really don’t know what you mean by it moves and does something ???...which way is it moving and what something is it doing ??...the engine computer tell the pump to pump air through 2 one way check valves into the engines exhaust manifold and If the computer doesn’t see the O2 sensors on BOTH banks react a certain way it sets a P0410...a solenoid valve allows the air from the pump through the solenoid valve and into the exhaust !!
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
I really don’t know what you mean by it moves and does something ???...which way is it moving and what something is it doing ??...the engine computer tell the pump to pump air through 2 one way check valves into the engines exhaust manifold and If the computer doesn’t see the O2 sensors on BOTH banks react a certain way it sets a P0410...a solenoid valve allows the air from the pump through the solenoid valve and into the exhaust !!
Ok, so when I say it moves & does something, I mean exactly that. When the car is turned on, I can feel the pump whirring & I can hear it. However, no suction from the "In" port & so blowing from the "Out" port. However, if I push on the plunger that's inside the "Out" port of the air pump, them voila: air flow. The "In" port has vacuum & the "Out" port is now blowing air.

Because I refuse to purchase another air pump yet again just to pass smog, I decided to cheat. I took a few inches of some soft soldering wire & bent it in a way that its jammed the "out" port plunger open in a way that it wont come out & go into the motor. Its also hooked around the nipple of the "out" port. So when the vacuum hose goes on the nipple, it's also going around the solder wire holding it as well in case something does go wrong & the solder wire gets dislodged, the hose holds it from going anywhere. This would be much better explained with pictures which I'll get later, but for now, I just wanna get this stupid CA smog done.

I failed a few days ago for high NOx @ 15mph. I've had long tubes on the car since the last smog test so the stock exhaust has been sitting for 2 years. The worst part is the max is 430. I failed at 444. 14 over! The original shop I went to was a bunch of a holes. If you live in Northern California, more specifically, Placerville, CA or surrounding areas, do not go to G&S smog. Horrible people. Fast Freddie's is much much better. Fred there is an honest guy & very knowledgeable & helpful. He said if the car had failed for 14 over, he would have just retested cuz it's so close, the catalytic converter probably wasnt hot & it would have passed a second go around.

Anyways, first shop advised to seafoam it, which I did. Just ironic that in order to pass emissions more efficiently, I have to put a chemical which releases more toxins into the air, as well as drive like I stole it to burn out as much carbon deposits & what not as possible just to pass. God I hate this state. Cant go back home to CO either. That's just CA 2.0 ugh. Anybody in Idaho want a roommate?
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 10:53 AM
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My recommendation to you is take your car to a good “diagnostic” shop...let them scan your car thoroughly and see what ails it !!...good luck !!
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 11:24 AM
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That AIR "CHECK VALVE" utilizes a vacuum signal to operate it. The small nylon vacuum line on that valve provides that vacuum.

The vacuum source originates at the very back of the intake manifold. It runs inside the main wire harness at the back of the engine and goes down to a vacuum reservoir in the passengers fender well near the PCM/TAC module. Those vacuum lines are notorious for splitting/cracking and or getting eaten by battery acid.

Do you have control over where the air comes out in your HVAC System Vents?? Like defrost, high vent outlet, floor outlets, ect. Loss of that vacuum signal also effects or can effect those functions in the HVAC air box.

See if there is vacuum at the small nylon vacuum line on that AIR control valve. The reason that valve is there is to prevent any exhaust from entering the pump and getting into the intake tract if on or both AIR check valves fail on the exhaust system.
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