Gotta love emissions
Next problem is if I disconnect the pump from the check valves at the connection on the driver side by the alternator, I get vacuum from the check valve side. Is this normal?
Because I refuse to purchase another air pump yet again just to pass smog, I decided to cheat. I took a few inches of some soft soldering wire & bent it in a way that its jammed the "out" port plunger open in a way that it wont come out & go into the motor. Its also hooked around the nipple of the "out" port. So when the vacuum hose goes on the nipple, it's also going around the solder wire holding it as well in case something does go wrong & the solder wire gets dislodged, the hose holds it from going anywhere. This would be much better explained with pictures which I'll get later, but for now, I just wanna get this stupid CA smog done.
I failed a few days ago for high NOx @ 15mph. I've had long tubes on the car since the last smog test so the stock exhaust has been sitting for 2 years. The worst part is the max is 430. I failed at 444. 14 over! The original shop I went to was a bunch of a holes. If you live in Northern California, more specifically, Placerville, CA or surrounding areas, do not go to G&S smog. Horrible people. Fast Freddie's is much much better. Fred there is an honest guy & very knowledgeable & helpful. He said if the car had failed for 14 over, he would have just retested cuz it's so close, the catalytic converter probably wasnt hot & it would have passed a second go around.
Anyways, first shop advised to seafoam it, which I did. Just ironic that in order to pass emissions more efficiently, I have to put a chemical which releases more toxins into the air, as well as drive like I stole it to burn out as much carbon deposits & what not as possible just to pass. God I hate this state. Cant go back home to CO either. That's just CA 2.0 ugh. Anybody in Idaho want a roommate?





The vacuum source originates at the very back of the intake manifold. It runs inside the main wire harness at the back of the engine and goes down to a vacuum reservoir in the passengers fender well near the PCM/TAC module. Those vacuum lines are notorious for splitting/cracking and or getting eaten by battery acid.
Do you have control over where the air comes out in your HVAC System Vents?? Like defrost, high vent outlet, floor outlets, ect. Loss of that vacuum signal also effects or can effect those functions in the HVAC air box.
See if there is vacuum at the small nylon vacuum line on that AIR control valve. The reason that valve is there is to prevent any exhaust from entering the pump and getting into the intake tract if on or both AIR check valves fail on the exhaust system.




