Hi guys, I'm doing a header install without a lift on my 98 coupe and I'm having a hell of a time. Has anyone jack up (lifted) the engine? How did you do it, how high, and was there any concern for the components under the hood? Did you remove the engine mount nuts from under the car or the mounts themselves? Also, did anyone wrap the wiring with heat shield material before the install? My Headers are LG Long tube street headers and were ceramic coated. LG does have a procedure but it assumes you have a vehicle lift.

A write up or procedure would be awesome.

Thanks

 

Here's a link, there's a bunch of others if you do a Google search
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=29

 

Thanks. My car is not high enough.

 

Success, I jacked up the car to 20 inches, loosen the motor mounts and raised to engine about an Inch. Both Headers slipped in with no real problems. Thanks, Feeder82 for the Link.

 

ALSO Whenever you install LT headers I would also reccomend a retune As without re tuning LT headers will make your engine run very rich and make very little more HP or evn less Often the louder exhaust makes you think you are making more HP but you are NOT
Reason being With LT's the front 02 bungs are moved further aft--as much as 3 ft and the 02's end up not readiing correctly and rarely heat up correctly---This is why the are illegal in most states
A competent tuner and adjust your front 02 switching points to try and correct the P/T fueling back to 14.68-1
Also because of the thinner walls on the tubes the knock sensors will mis interpret this extra nosie as detonation where in fact there is none --Not uncommon with LT's for the ECM to deduct 5* of timing due to this false kock reading---A tuner can "desensiize" your kncok sensors to eliminate this false kncok timing deductions--Properly tuned LT's can make from 20-30 more RWHP

 

Glad you got them in. These long tube threads tempt me sometimes!

IIRC, the illegal nature also comes from these systems usually deleting cats or pushing the cats down farther from the manifolds decreasing the cat's catalyzation properties. (One reason I love the JBA long tubes so much is they retain the factory main cats, and their factory position. This is close to ideal especially for the 02 Z06 for reasons I'll explain below.)

On the early C5s, they only had 2 main cats, but year 2000 had stricter emissions in some states. The flash point where the cats would start catalyzing wasn't quick enough on cold starts, partially do to materials used, and the distance they were from the manifolds. This brought about additional pre cats or pup cats, that were placed closer to the manifolds that begin to catalyze earlier. In 2002, the Z06 got redesigned cats with Rhodium metal, and a special dual brick design which got both an early flash point on cold starts, while keeping the same far distance from the manifolds as early cars, thus eliminating the pup cats and increasing flow.

Interestingly, looking at the C6 exhaust system, they moved the cats almost directly beneath the headers, and tilted sideways to fit. My guess is the Rhodium got expensive, so they used early cat technology, but placed them where the pup cats where, but allowing only 2 main cats to be necessary. This increased the catalyzing flash point, while maintaining emissions, and the cheaper design of the earlier 1997-2000 year cats.