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Plug Wires
New Plugs
New Oil Pressure Sensor (manifold is already off)
Lengthen the small nylon vacuum line at the back of the manifold for easier reconnect.
New coolant
Recommend flushing the block with clean distilled water till it runs clean before the head removal. Then you can just add DEXCOOL for a fresh coolant fill.
Plug Wires
New Plugs
New Oil Pressure Sensor (manifold is already off)
Lengthen the small nylon vacuum line at the back of the manifold for easier reconnect.
New coolant
Recommend flushing the block with clean distilled water till it runs clean before the head removal. Then you can just add DEXCOOL for a fresh coolant fill.
Bill
Bill, thanks for your time. The plugs and wires are somewhat new so I’ll skip those, but the oil sensor I’ll definitely replace.
Looking back at the stock cam that came out of the car, 2 of the lobes are fairly torn up. I wish I would have examined them sooner, but I didn’t even think to since the shop didn’t mention anything about it.
This has me nervous that my new cam might be chewed up from the bad lifter. Is there any way to inspect the cam (maybe from the valley cover?) without removing it all the way? Removing it would obviously create much more work in regards to the radiator, timing chain, etc.
Any suggestions? I’ve driven about 1K miles on the new cam.
Here’s a picture of the original cam that came out of the car;
Last edited by CapslockAnt; Jul 20, 2019 at 04:02 AM.
If you remove the valve valley cover, there are two windows into the block that grants limited access to the cam. They ONLY show the cam area at cylinders 1/3 & 7/8 If it were ME, and I knew that the cam had damage, I would remove the valley cover to see that cam on that one damaged cylinder and if it is now damaged. Go from there.
Sad that your shop guys weren't more proactive. It would have saved you a LOT of time and money!
IMHO, you are in for a head removal and lifter swap. If that happens, contact me for some valuable lessons learned on heads and cam replacement ideas/...
If you remove the valve valley cover, there are two windows into the block that grants limited access to the cam. They ONLY show the cam area at cylinders 1/3 & 7/8 If it were ME, and I knew that the cam had damage, I would remove the valley cover to see that cam on that one damaged cylinder and if it is now damaged. Go from there.
Sad that your shop guys weren't more proactive. It would have saved you a LOT of time and money!
IMHO, you are in for a head removal and lifter swap. If that happens, contact me for some valuable lessons learned on heads and cam replacement ideas/...
Bill
The heads are in the process of coming off. I need to grab a fuel line disconnect tool today to get the intake manifold off, but almost everything else is pulled. I have a bunch of parts on the way, the head gaskets don’t come til Friday and the ARP head studs I ordered from Summit are back ordered until the end of the month.
I’m hoping by some miracle that the cam isn’t damaged. On the old cam it appears that the damage is coming from 1, so hopefully if there is any damage on the new cam I can see it in valley cover windows.
Originally Posted by Robrote
There is no way I would run a new cam on lifters that were riding on that cam.
Unfortunately I’m new to all of this, so I didn’t know any better (until now, boy do you learn fast with the help of the forums **thanks everyone!**) but looking back I had known how terrible of a decision that was.
Does anyone have any tricks to turn the engine over? I’ve searched every local auto parts and tool store, and cannot find an angled box wrench that’s a 15/16 or 24mm. I ordered one on Amazon that will be delivered on Monday, but I’m extremely eager to turn the engine over a few times to inspect the cam from the valley cover.
I purchased a strap wrench, but don’t see how that’s going to turn the engine over. All spark plugs are out and it’s still very hefty.
Also, the passenger side exhaust manifold lower heat shield bolt just lost it's head while I was trying to break it loose. What the hell do I do now? If I leave it unbolted, I’m assuming it will rattle like crazy.
Last edited by CapslockAnt; Jul 21, 2019 at 12:45 AM.
Does anyone have any tricks to turn the engine over? I’ve searched every local auto parts and tool store, and cannot find an angled box wrench that’s a 15/16 or 24mm. I ordered one on Amazon that will be delivered on Monday, but I’m extremely eager to turn the engine over a few times to inspect the cam from the valley cover.
I purchased a strap wrench, but don’t see how that’s going to turn the engine over. All spark plugs are out and it’s still very hefty.
Also, the passenger side exhaust manifold lower heat shield bolt just lost it's head while I was trying to break it loose. What the hell do I do now? If I leave it unbolted, I’m assuming it will rattle like crazy.
We discussed this over the phone and here's the options:
1. MN6/MN12 Trans= Put a socket on the rear wheel spindle nut and turn the wheel CW with the trans in 4th or push the car with trans in 4th If you have to push it backwards you have to use reverse. NOTE! IF,, You have A WEAK or broken Belleview Spring in the differentials limited slip unit, the opposite wheel will spin in the opposite direction and the engine will not rotate. You will have to lock down the opposite wheel!!
2, I personally use a very large strap wrench and put it around the dampener outer dia and it usually turns very easily. I also use the same strap wrench to hold the crank from spinning when I torque the ARP Dampener bolt to 190 ft/lbs. If you have a A4 (4L60E),, that is how you do it. You can also remove the starter and pry on the flex plate teeth. Or you can make a wrench adapter to reach into the dampener behind the rack.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 22, 2019 at 02:33 PM.
We discussed this over the phone and here's the options:
1. MN6/MN12 Trans= Put a socket on the rear wheel spindle nut and turn the wheel CW with the trans in 4th or push the car with trans in 4th If you have to push it backwards you have to use reverse. NOTE! IF,, You have A WEAK or broken Belleview Spring in the differentials limited slip unit, the opposite where will spin in the opposite direction and the engine will not rotate. You will have to lock down the opposite wheel!!
2, I personally use a very large strap wrench and put it around the dampener outer dia and it usually turns very easily. I also use the same strap wrench to hold the crank from spinning when I torque the ARP Dampener bolt to 190 ft/lbs. If you have a A4 (4L60E),, that is how you do it. You can also remove the starter and pry on the flex plate teeth. Or you can make a wrench adapter to reach into the dampener behind the rack.
BC
I propped one of the rear wheels up with a ramp and then spun the free wheel and the engine finally turned over. Here are some pictures from the cam. Let me hear everyone’s thoughts about replacing or leaving it in. The cam currently has about 1K miles on it unfortunately.
If it was me I would replace the cam, looks like some of the lobes have some damage also get some good lifters like Johnson 2110, those crappy ls7 lifters are no better than what was in it
If it was me I would replace the cam, looks like some of the lobes have some damage also get some good lifters like Johnson 2110, those crappy ls7 lifters are no better than what was in it
No way I would run that cam. You're in this far, just pull off the front and order a new cam and lifters. Good luck
No way I would run that cam. You're in this far, just pull off the front and order a new cam and lifters. Good luck
Thanks for the input, it sounds like everyone is in agreeance it should be replaced. Replacing the cam looks like a much more challenging job than the heads.
Originally Posted by 93Polo
Morel Drop In lifters or Johnson 2110s, new cam and measure pushrods.
I purchased some new LS7 lifters already. If I ordered the same direct replacement COMP Cams for the one that has gone bad, would there be a need to measure? Just wondering, it may be smart to measure anyways.
Originally Posted by 493lszosix
If it was me I would replace the cam, looks like some of the lobes have some damage also get some good lifters like Johnson 2110, those crappy ls7 lifters are no better than what was in it
I should have made this more clear, but this is just one lobe. The rest all look perfect.
There is no way I would run a new cam on lifters that were riding on that cam.
No way I would run that cam. You're in this far, just pull off the front and order a new cam and lifters. Good luck 
