Bose Amp troubles
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Bose Amp troubles
AC FIXED, Now BOSE AMP/PROCESSOR giving trouble.
When I was tearing apart the dashboard to get to be left side blend door actuator I had to unplug and remove the Bose Amp. After I had completed the left side actuator I bolted the amp back up and plugged it in. I am now barely getting a sound out of my radio. Unplug the harness from the amp and partially slid the plug back in and while moving it from side to side I would get sporadic power to the amp and the speakers would work. Fully insert the plug and I get absolutely nothing other than the radio working without the amplifier. The two fuses that power the radio and the amplifier are both good. Swapped the amp relay with the rear defroster relay thinking the relay was bad. Side note both relays are identical. So anyway swap the relays still no power coming from the radio. I even went as far as replacing the amp plug with another pigtail. Cut wires from old and soldered to new, 1 wire one color at a time. The Bose amplifier still does not work. Any ideas?
And NO, I DO NOT want to swap over to an after-market radio or go with a double din set up. I'm happy with the Bose system and just want it to work.
Also....had a spare Bose Amp, tried it. Doing the same thing so it's not the amp.
When I was tearing apart the dashboard to get to be left side blend door actuator I had to unplug and remove the Bose Amp. After I had completed the left side actuator I bolted the amp back up and plugged it in. I am now barely getting a sound out of my radio. Unplug the harness from the amp and partially slid the plug back in and while moving it from side to side I would get sporadic power to the amp and the speakers would work. Fully insert the plug and I get absolutely nothing other than the radio working without the amplifier. The two fuses that power the radio and the amplifier are both good. Swapped the amp relay with the rear defroster relay thinking the relay was bad. Side note both relays are identical. So anyway swap the relays still no power coming from the radio. I even went as far as replacing the amp plug with another pigtail. Cut wires from old and soldered to new, 1 wire one color at a time. The Bose amplifier still does not work. Any ideas?
And NO, I DO NOT want to swap over to an after-market radio or go with a double din set up. I'm happy with the Bose system and just want it to work.
Also....had a spare Bose Amp, tried it. Doing the same thing so it's not the amp.
Last edited by SG Lou; Jul 17, 2019 at 04:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
...I am now barely getting a sound out of my radio. Unplug the harness from the amp and partially slid the plug back in and while moving it from side to side I would get sporadic power to the amp and the speakers would work. Fully insert the plug and I get absolutely nothing other than the radio working without the amplifier. The two fuses that power the radio and the amplifier are both good. Swapped the amp relay with the rear defroster relay thinking the relay was bad... ...still no power coming from the radio. I even went as far as replacing the amp plug with another pigtail. Cut wires from old and soldered to new, 1 wire one color at a time. The Bose amplifier still does not work. Any ideas?...
This module receives the 4 main channels Pre-Amp Outputs from the headunit through connector C4 , applies a 2-way crossover filter to the signals, feeding the lows to the door-mounted powered subwoofers, while the mids and highs are further "conditioned" and then returned to the headunit's built-in 4-channel Amp inputs via connector C3.
In other words, if the DSP Module stops working there should be no sound from any speaker, including the subwoofers.
The DSP Module receives power from Fuse 24 through Pin A12, ground from the headunit through Pin B1 and the ON/OFF trigger from the headunit through Pin A8. Could you verify with a multimeter those 3 points?
Perhaps a wire was damaged while fixing the a/c.
Last edited by GCG; Jul 16, 2019 at 10:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
I take it you are actually referring to the Bose Digital Signal Processor (DSP) Module.
This module receives the 4 main channels Pre-Amp Outputs from the headunit through connector C4 , applies a 2-way crossover filter to the signals, feeding the lows to the door-mounted powered subwoofers, while the mids and highs are further "conditioned" and then returned to the headunit's built-in 4-channel Amp inputs via connector C3.
In other words, if the DSP Module stops working there should be no sound from any speaker, including the subwoofers.
The DSP Module receives power from Fuse 24 through Pin A12, ground from the headunit through Pin B1 and the ON/OFF trigger through Pin A8. Could you verify with a multimeter those 3 points?
Perhaps a wire was damaged while fixing the a/c.
This module receives the 4 main channels Pre-Amp Outputs from the headunit through connector C4 , applies a 2-way crossover filter to the signals, feeding the lows to the door-mounted powered subwoofers, while the mids and highs are further "conditioned" and then returned to the headunit's built-in 4-channel Amp inputs via connector C3.
In other words, if the DSP Module stops working there should be no sound from any speaker, including the subwoofers.
The DSP Module receives power from Fuse 24 through Pin A12, ground from the headunit through Pin B1 and the ON/OFF trigger through Pin A8. Could you verify with a multimeter those 3 points?
Perhaps a wire was damaged while fixing the a/c.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Anyway, Question on this testing of leads you asked to do. Can I do it with the plug to the processor out or does it have to be plugged in and back probed ?
Lou
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Melting Slicks
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Since this test basically involves battery power and ground you can do it unplugged first, and if everything is fine, then plugged and back-probed to make sure voltages don't drop under load.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
It would certainly help if this IDIOT who's writing this
would have put FUSE 24 back into it's proper slot.
I checked voltage from pin A 12 to B 1 and had zero volts. Checked pin A8 to B1 and had 13.3v.
So I checked Fuse 24 and noticed is was missing. After looking over the list on the inside of the fuse box lid I noticed there is NO FUSE for #22 yet I had a 20 amp fuse in it's slot.......DUH.😝
Swapped fuse positions and guess what? 👍👍
🎵🎶🎵🎶🎸🎸🎼🎵
Thanks for your help and guidance. 🍻
would have put FUSE 24 back into it's proper slot.
I checked voltage from pin A 12 to B 1 and had zero volts. Checked pin A8 to B1 and had 13.3v.
So I checked Fuse 24 and noticed is was missing. After looking over the list on the inside of the fuse box lid I noticed there is NO FUSE for #22 yet I had a 20 amp fuse in it's slot.......DUH.😝
Swapped fuse positions and guess what? 👍👍
🎵🎶🎵🎶🎸🎸🎼🎵
Thanks for your help and guidance. 🍻
Hey, no worries, stuff like that has happened to the best of us! 