today i went for a long 4hour drive when i came back home i notice my car was having a bit of trouble starting, its done that in the past but its usually early in the morning and on a cold day and it still starts on the second try. I tried to go somewhere just now and the car won't start at all i hear the crank when i turn the ignition but the car won't start?? what do you guys think it is???

probably going to need to get it towed to the shop tomorrow ...

i just changed the battery on it too...

 

No fuel or spark.

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

Do you have any codes on your DIC ?

 

Fuel, air, or spark !!...sure your mechanic will figure it out !!

 

Yeah 2 codes came up

 

Question ??...if you are taking it to a shop for repair why do you want suggestions from the Forum as to what it may be...just curious !!

 

C5 diag I was asking because if it was a simple fix I was going to try and do it myself, taking it to the shop was going to be my last choice..

 

Nothing is a simple fix on these cars sometimes...LOL !!

 

The 2 codes showing are HVAC codes and have nothing to do with a no start issue. Can you hear the fuel pump come on when you first turn the key on? Your fuel pump may have died!

 

Could very well be a simple fix. You first have to want to save your cash and do a little investigating/troubleshooting.

Do you actually have fuel in the tank????? Try this. There is a mechanical Schrader Valve on the front end of the drivers side fuel rail... Remove the fuel rail plastic cover, unscrew the cap on the valve. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN (engine off). Depress the small pintel valve inside the Schrader Valve.

NOTE/CAUTION!! If the fuel pump is working the system will be pressurized and fuel will squirt out with force!! Be ready to catch the fuel in a towel of container.

That will tell you if the pump is pumping fuel. Do you hear the pump prime the 2 seconds when you first turn the key to the RUN/ON position?

If the fuel just dribbles out of none comes out, your tank is empty or the pump is not pumping.

Bill

 

Thank you Bill,
this is really helpful is actually already in the shop!
But the shop just called me and told me they can’t figure it out they told me it wasn't the fuel pump thought!!!
I’m about to go to the shop right now..

 

Get it home , We will provide you all the assistance that you need.

The NEXT time that it cranks and wont start, you will be ARMED to at least figure out if its a Fuel or Spark issue.

The problem could just be intermittent and it didn't happen at the shop.

When ever your car has ANY issues, you should ALWAYS read the DTCs.

Do you know that you can read and clear your DTCs sitting in the drivers seat?? Here is how:

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)



This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)

3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button

4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.



Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.



There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.



Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.



Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.

NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.



If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.



Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?

First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.



NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.

WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.



These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs



Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:



http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php



http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.



Bill

 

If they can’t figure out a simple “cranking no start” get your car out of there !!...if you have a volt meter and a test light and know how to use it your chances of getting it running here are much much better !!...if your shop needs guidance you can pass on their questions to us here..LOL !!

 

Another LOL moment. I have an 02Z. I have had an issue that causes the same symptoms, I did figure it out and resolved it.

It has to do with a corrupted serial data buss, When that happens, the BCM and the PCM don't communicate properly and you get the NO RUN condition.

To help prove that, please read and post ALL of your DTCs using the C5 Internal DTC reading system. Please Post ALL of the data that you get.

Its expecially important to do it what the car is having one of its fits.

Bill

 

Jonyvette7, when you experienced the crank, no start-

After it would not start did you try turning the key to OFF and then retry the start? Sometimes a failing ignition switch will present a crank no start, but may, on the next try or a subsequent try, allow a start. A failing ignition switch can also generate a host of codes including LOW VOLTAGE, REDUCED POWER, SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM as well as a check engine light.

 

Spent over 2 months on a crank no start and finally changed the Ignition Switch.

If bad contacts and no or low voltage to PCM and or BCM car won't start

PITA to get to switch but was necessary

 

Not attempting to hijack this thread, but I have a similar problem - Car ('99, 6-spd, 42K miles) spins over just fine, but often will not catch/start on the first turn of the ign key. However, on the second ign key trun, it fires right off!! Thoughts?