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OK, so I might do this job on my 01" auto cpe. I understand u have to tighten down the balancer a little at a time to get it to the right depth on the crank, then once there torque it to 250ft.lbs. I think that's the spec as I remember. So, when u torque it down to 250, won't that push it further down on the crank? what am I not seeing here? Also, what can I use to lock the motor so it doesn't turn when tightening the balancer? Something cheap that I can pic up locally, thank you
The use of a new GM crank bolt is to torque it to 37 ft-lbs and they further torque another 240 degrees. If you use the APR bolt the 250 ft-lbs is the correct torque. Using a correct harmonic balance (HB) installation tool is the correct method of installing the HB. To hold the engine while tightening you can use a Kent Moore starter lock for an auto trans--requires moving or removing the starter. Some have used the old serpentine belt method (google is you fiend) is another. The HB installation tool will tighten it to the crank and the crank bolt will keep it from walking at high rpm's. Also replace the crank seal (GM part) when replacing the HB.
Run the balancer on until it bottoms out.....torque it to 250 and you are done. If you use a balancer with a keyway cut in it, make sure that you put some silicone in the slot. Wont hurt to put some on the washer part of the bolt also. Dont use the serpentine belt method. You are trying to twist that sleeve with 250 ft. lbs. of torque. You are changing the balancer becaust the old one came loose. Why would you try to get a head start on the new one?? Starter can be moved out of the way without disconnecting the wires. just make sure that the battery is disconnected. Use the flywheel lock. Pretty simple job really, just time consuming. Also, if you are up on jackstands,,, you can drop your exhaust down on the floor.,, and slide it out of the way. Your 02 sensor wires are plenty long to do this. Makes dropping the starter super easy.
You can go old school and hold a prybar on the flywheel/flex plate teeth to keep it from turning. I've done this a few times.
DO NOT reuse the stock crank bolt. They are torque to yield and you run a high risk of breaking it if you try to go to 37 ft/lbs plus 140°. I always recommend purchasing an ARP crank pulley bolt. You simply torque to 235 ft/lbs using arp moly lube. Simple and straight forward.
Last edited by Fastbird; Aug 28, 2019 at 03:52 PM.
OK, so I might do this job on my 01" auto cpe. I understand u have to tighten down the balancer a little at a time to get it to the right depth on the crank, then once there torque it to 250ft.lbs. I think that's the spec as I remember. So, when u torque it down to 250, won't that push it further down on the crank? what am I not seeing here? Also, what can I use to lock the motor so it doesn't turn when tightening the balancer? Something cheap that I can pic up locally, thank you
Summit racing has a tool that holds the balancer in place when turning the bolt. Its 36 bucks. I used it and posted about it about 6 months ago. You should be able to search under my name...
I would suggest the arp bolt. It comes with some lube with it as well which makes it easier to torque down and keeps it in place.
Some say you will need an install tool, but I used a heat gun to get the hub of the new balancer to about 270 degrees. This allowed me to slide on th balancer enough to use the original bolt to drive the balancer on. You just need to make sure you can turn the bolt in a few turns prior to driving it all the way in. Once bottons out you can swap the arp bolt in.
yea, the prybar is a little scary to me, fearing it might slip. And yes I've awar the stock bolt is one time use, thank you. Tab, I'm curious, why do you say use the old bolt to get the pully on then swap it for the aarp, why not just install it with the aarp in the first place, thank you all for the advice
Some say you will need an install tool, but I used a heat gun to get the hub of the new balancer to about 270 degrees. This allowed me to slide on th balancer enough to use the original bolt to drive the balancer on. You just need to make sure you can turn the bolt in a few turns prior to driving it all the way in. Once bottons out you can swap the arp bolt in.
You should never use a bolt to draw the balancer on - you can easily 86 the crank threads. You should use the install tool. Also, never listen to anyone saying to use the belt wrapped around the balancer to tighten the bolt. In addition to damaging the rubber ring of the balancer, this method fails to properly hold the crank while torquing the bolt to a very high number.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Aug 28, 2019 at 08:49 AM.
yea, the prybar is a little scary to me, fearing it might slip. And yes I've awar the stock bolt is one time use, thank you. Tab, I'm curious, why do you say use the old bolt to get the pully on then swap it for the aarp, why not just install it with the aarp in the first place, thank you all for the advice
You could do that for sure but just remove the washer that comes with the arp bolt. This will allow you to thread it further..
Another thing is that you should ne able to use the puller that auto zone lends out. It's the Chrysler one. I did not use this one as I had a borrowed one from a friend but the Chrysler one is said to work on the stock balancer.
I ended up installing the power bond balancer from summit racing as well....
NEVER use the old bolt to start the dampener on the crank. The old bolt or (new one for that matter too) is too short to properly engage the threads inside the crank enough to be able provide enough strength to force it in. The dampener bolt only threads into the first three of four threads in the end of the crank when you are trying to force the dampener on the crank. Some people have actually ripped the first few threads out of the end of the crank. NOT A GOOD PLAN!
Yes,,,Heating the dampener inner hub with a heat gun or small propane torch to about 200 deg F will significantly help it overcome that very tight interference fit when you install and or remove the dampener. .
NEVER use the old bolt to start the dampener on the crank. The old bolt or (new one for that matter too) is too short to properly engage the threads inside the crank enough to be able provide enough strength to force it in. The dampener bolt only threads into the first three of four threads in the end of the crank when you are trying to force the dampener on the crank. Some people have actually ripped the first few threads out of the end of the crank. NOT A GOOD PLAN!
Yes,,,Heating the dampener inner hub with a heat gun or small propane torch to about 200 deg F will significantly help it overcome that very tight interference fit when you install and or remove the dampener. .
Bill
I do agree with what bill says even though I used the old bolt. But, as I mentioned you need to heat the hub a good amount. My balancer slid on the crank pretty far and I was able to screw in the bolt a bunch of turns where I felt comfortable driving it home. I did screw it in slowly and with little effort due to the heat..
That being said, you really need heat. I used a temp gun to ensure how hot the hub actually was. Just be sure to wear gloves so you do not burn your hands and slide the balancer on the shaft asap...itcwill bot work if you give the hub time to cool.
Use the threaded rod......nut......and the 2 washers that come with it. Its cheap on E-Bay. Antisieze the threads on the rod and you dont have to heat anything. Knock the sharp edge off of the leading I. D. of the balancer with some 220 paper. I used a cartridge roll on a grinder. This will prevent the ballancer from galling the O. D. of the crank.. It cant kick up a burr.......Make sure that everything is spotlessly clean. A little oil wiped on the snout before starting also helps. Once you see how easy this project is....you will be hiring yourself out to do LS balancers......