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You can spay contact cleaner and insert and pull the key several times, many forum members have cleared the pull key message by doing this and do it as a preventive measure a few times a year.
I found an old thread in my research that listed the following instructions, basically what mmartinez is suggesting, I believe the forum member that posted it goes by Goose:
"Basically the plunger in the switch, (which the key depresses sticks in the depressed position when the key is removed).
With the car door open and the chime activated, do the following;
Using some electrical contact cleaner, attached spray straw to spray nozzle. Place spray straw in the ignition key slot and give the switch a couple of quick spray bursts, remove spray straw and quickly insert key and remove key a few times to see if you can free up the plunger. Note do not rotate the key, simply move the key in-and-out of the switch.
If the plunger was the issue and you did free it up, the chime should turn off as soon as you remove the key with the door open.
If you are successful, follow up with a quick spray burst using the spray straw of WD40."
Keep us posted, I'm still chasing my gremlins! I think my ignition switch may not be recognizing when the key is pulled out, leaving the door chime on, radio, interior lights etc which draws the battery down. I think the low voltage is prompting my "pull key wait 10 seconds" issue but I guess I will find out once I clean the ignition switch and get my battery charged back up.
Faced similar challenges not too long ago. I already had the factory bypass as well as the locking mechanism removed. Took the car out for a ride, stopped for fuel and almost got stuck at the gas station. Multiple attempts to start the car without the "pull key" error and I was able to get her home.
Once home...I tried cleaning my primary key pellet, no change. Then my two never used spare keys and the issue did not go away. Installed the LMC5 bypass with brown wire mod and issue was fully resolved. Have not had a reccurence of this problem since. Same battery since the change as well. Always trickle charged of course.
Last edited by Johnny Hardcore; Sep 17, 2019 at 09:28 PM.
Faced similar challenges not too long ago. I already had the factory bypass as well as the locking mechanism removed. Took the car out for a ride, stopped for fuel and almost got stuck at the gas station. Multiple attempts to start the car without the "pull key" error and I was able to get her home.
Once home...I tried cleaning my primary key pellet, no change. Then my two never used spare keys and the issue did not go away. Installed the LMC5 bypass with brown wire mod and issue was fully resolved. Have not had a reccurence of this problem since. Same battery since the change as well. Always trickle charged of course.
Thanks for the info Johnny... What year is your C5? I understand that the "brown wire mod" is not possible with 97's, and early 98's ??
Originally Posted by deuceroadster2
I found an old thread in my research that listed the following instructions, basically what mmartinez is suggesting, I believe the forum member that posted it goes by Goose:
"Basically the plunger in the switch, (which the key depresses sticks in the depressed position when the key is removed).
Deuce - thanks for that info. I may try to clean the inside.. although shooting the cleaner into the key slot full strength makes me a little nervous.
I may try a "shoot and wipe" method first.
SDVette: Any update on your progress? I replaced my ignition switch, let the car sit all weekend on the battery tender and got the "pull key, wait 10 seconds" when I started it. I'm running out of hair to pull out!! Fun with cars, right?
SDVette: Any update on your progress? I replaced my ignition switch, let the car sit all weekend on the battery tender and got the "pull key, wait 10 seconds" when I started it. I'm running out of hair to pull out!! Fun with cars, right?
I've had a number of 'pull key' messages in the last couple of months, finally resulting in 'service column lock'. Not fun. Installed an LMC5 on Saturday, seems to have corrected both issues in one hour long installation.
The VATS reader in my switch went bad. I measured resistance in my keys = 681 ohms. Disconnected VATS at the switch and patched in a 681 ohm resistor. No more problems.
SDVette: Any update on your progress? I replaced my ignition switch, let the car sit all weekend on the battery tender and got the "pull key, wait 10 seconds" when I started it. I'm running out of hair to pull out!! Fun with cars, right?
Deuce-
I just returned from a 2 week vacation....
After cleaning the keys and the lock, I've driven the car 4-5 times and have not had any issues.... Although, it's been cooler also... so I guess it's a wait-and-see situation for me.
I have a 2000 auto with the lmc5 . The car is kept in an indoor storage with instructions to keep it on my battery tender.
every time I pick the car up to drive it I get the pull key message and it dies when trying to drive it. The last time this happened I went to a very near by napa auto and found the battery to have 12.3 volts
does not happen after it has been driven
I have a 2000 auto with the lmc5 . The car is kept in an indoor storage with instructions to keep it on my battery tender.
every time I pick the car up to drive it I get the pull key message and it dies when trying to drive it. The last time this happened I went to a very near by napa auto and found the battery to have 12.3 volts
does not happen after it has been driven
It makes perfect sense that a low voltage will cause a mis-read of the key pellet.. Basic electronics; E=IR.. If the voltage changes, the resistance will vary.
I don't think that is my problem, though... as most of my "pull key" messages happened after long runs, after a short stop (like for gas).
Just to reference what I have and the temp issue. I have a little module from Midwest Corvette or Houston Corvette. I can't remember it was so long ago. But it's a little black box that sits on the bottom of my steering column and is a lock bypass. I'm in Texas and street temps get into the 110s easily during the summer. I've never had a "pull key" message. Although I notice other little things, like my door dinger tone being different if it's really hot or cooler hahaha. Gotta love 90s era cars. I really do love them though.
It makes perfect sense that a low voltage will cause a mis-read of the key pellet.. Basic electronics; E=IR.. If the voltage changes, the resistance will vary.
I don't think that is my problem, though... as most of my "pull key" messages happened after long runs, after a short stop (like for gas).
same issue with my 2000. Starts up fine in the garage, but won't restart after the first stop until I disconnect and reconnect the battery. I installed the LMC5 several years ago.
I have a 2000 auto with the lmc5 . The car is kept in an indoor storage with instructions to keep it on my battery tender.
every time I pick the car up to drive it I get the pull key message and it dies when trying to drive it. The last time this happened I went to a very near by napa auto and found the battery to have 12.3 volts
does not happen after it has been driven
same issue with a 2000 6 speed. Starts and runs fine the first time, but won't restart after the first stop until I disconnect/reconnect the battery. What does that do?