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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 08:23 PM
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Default Pull Key, Wait 10 seconds

I recently completed a 5600 mile trip (Route 66 from LA to Chicago, and beyond) in my '98.
The car ran perfectly, with the exception of numerous "Pull Key.... wait 10 second" events.
The car crossed 90K while on this trip.. Low mileage for a 21 year old car, but no garage queen either.

In daily driving, I've probably seen this message 5-6 times over 20 years - very infrequently.
I installed a CLB kit 15 years ago - after I had an actual column lock event. So the CL motor is not operating.. and the CLB module is sending back the needed signals to the BCM.

I see there is a new gizmo that people seem to be using for this (LMc5)... however, I see that it also can still get "Pull Key" messages after installation.

I probably got 10 or 12 instances of "pull key" on the trip. In each case:

- It was HOT. Really hot.. Like 115 degrees hot.
- Pulling the key and re-trying would always work OK

I've read a lot of threads on this, and many say it's a power/battery problem. I'm not buying that. My battery is almost new.
I recall that it's actually a resistor in the base of the key that the car uses to determine if the key is correct.

Could it be as simple as the extreme heat changes the resistance of the chip resistor in the key???

Has anyone done a deep dive into this issue?

Thanks much,
Fred

P.S. - here is a link to my Route 66 trip photos if you're interested: https://photos.app.goo.gl/aZL334MQT9yQEe6o7

Last edited by SDVette; Sep 12, 2019 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 08:54 PM
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do you have the LMC5 with the brown wire ??????
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 09:27 PM
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No. As I said, I purchased and installed a "column lock bypass" 15 years ago. It's been no issue until this trip.
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 09:43 PM
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The resistor in the key is part of the VATS "vehicle anti theft system" if something is wrong with the resistor it will not allow the car to crank over. Majority of pull key problems is a low voltage condition and most people will tell you to install a LMC5, but sometimes it can be the column lock relay, and there are two grounds located on both driver and passenger side pillars that should be looked ensuring that they are clean and tight.
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Pounder
do you have the LMC5 with the brown wire ??????

You need to.

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Old Sep 13, 2019 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
The resistor in the key is part of the VATS "vehicle anti theft system" if something is wrong with the resistor it will not allow the car to crank over. Majority of pull key problems is a low voltage condition and most people will tell you to install a LMC5, but sometimes it can be the column lock relay, and there are two grounds located on both driver and passenger side pillars that should be looked ensuring that they are clean and tight.
Are you sure about that? I've never heard of a car not 'cranking over'. I thought it did the 2MPH limit thing???

I'm hoping someone has a more in-depth understanding of the "pull key" error.
If it was a ground issue, it would happen at home too.. not just when it's hot.

What exactly causes the "pull key" error?

Last edited by SDVette; Sep 13, 2019 at 12:25 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2019 | 09:25 AM
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Yes the resistor in the key identifies the key as the correct key, the BCM module then provides a ground to the TDR relay whose contacts send power to the starter solenoid. Can't explain why it happened when it's hot, maybe you should remove the column lock bypass and install the LMC5 with the brown wire mod.
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Old Sep 13, 2019 | 10:39 AM
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Just install the LMC5 and be done with it. Its like 40 bucks. I put one in mine even though I wasn't having any problems, just didn't want to get stuck somewhere with a stupid problem like a pull key message.
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Old Sep 13, 2019 | 12:12 PM
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Just a warning, the LMC5 doesn't always fix the pull key issue. The brown wire mod doesn't work on my car seeing how it's a 97.
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Old Sep 13, 2019 | 05:41 PM
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Yeah, I don't know if the LMC5 is anything different than what I put in 15 years ago..
At that time, I 'retracted' the locking pin and disconnected it (rendering it unable to lock the steering)... and the module I installed (we called it CLB back then - Column Lock Bypass) sent the proper handshake to the BCM so it was happy.

Anybody know the details on this?

scameron78: How often do you get the "pull key" message? Any correlation to heat?
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Old Sep 15, 2019 | 06:25 PM
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SDVette:

I will be curious to see what your problem turns out to be. I too have been having the "pull key, wait 10 second" message. In my case, I do believe mine is related to low voltage issue. Two weeks ago my HVAC condensation backed up and got my BCM wet. Since I dried and cleaned the BCM I keep getting door chimes that never stop, interior lights that stay on, radio stays on so I'm leaning towards the ignition switch.

I also have the LMC5 and spoke with Richard at Compliance who produces the LMC5. We pretty much ruled the LMC5 being the issue in my case.

Good luck and I'll follow along to see what you find!
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Old Sep 15, 2019 | 07:16 PM
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deuceroadster2,

I was reading this FAQ: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ky-please.html

Specifically, this section:

Q I still get the "Pull Key and Wait 10 Seconds" message and "Service Steering Column Lock" message? What do I do now?

[some other answers deleted here]

A6: If you get the "Pull Key and Wait 10 Seconds" message but no "Service Column Lock" message, it can sometimes be a symptom of your security system and related to your key pellet.


--
I never get the "service column lock" message.. Only "Pull Key"

For my case, I'm really suspecting the key 'pellet'. Both my keys are original - 21 years old!
I'm going to start by getting a new key made to see if that has any effect on my problem.

I'll post back when I learn something.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SDVette

scameron78: How often do you get the "pull key" message? Any correlation to heat?
I receive the message 90% of the time. No correlation to heat.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by scameron78
I receive the message 90% of the time. No correlation to heat.
I would be thinking about the key pellet too if I were you.. Do you have more than 1 key? Do they both do this?
I recall a detailed post many years ago about the pellets and their values... Going to do a deep dive to try to find that info.
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SDVette
I would be thinking about the key pellet too if I were you.. Do you have more than 1 key? Do they both do this?
I recall a detailed post many years ago about the pellets and their values... Going to do a deep dive to try to find that info.
Is this the info you're looking for?
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 01:46 AM
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Nice pics by the way.
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by laurent_zo6
Is this the info you're looking for?
Yes! Thanks much!
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by roelkers
Nice pics by the way.
Thanks. I see you are in Kansas. One of my fav stops was the Cosmosphere in Hutchinson.. I real gem for a space-nerd like me!
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 03:53 PM
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So I measured both my keys.. The backup key is dead on. My main key is slightly low, but within the range.
I also noticed the edges of the "pellet" were dirty, with a few nicks and scratches.
I cleaned them with contact cleaner as best I could..

My best guess is that the pellet makes poor contact with whatever is reading the value of it... causing my problem.
It makes sense that heat makes it worse.

Still hoping a guru who fully understands the PULL KEY and VATS connection may jump in here.
I wonder if it's possible to clean the inside of the mechanism?? It must be dirty after 21 years.
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 05:22 PM
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You can spay contact cleaner and insert and pull the key several times, many forum members have cleared the pull key message by doing this and do it as a preventive measure a few times a year.
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