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Oil pressure sender replacement

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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 02:52 PM
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Default Oil pressure sender replacement

What did you guys use the disconnect the plug from the original oil sender because I can’t seem to get it?
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry D Sanders
What did you guys use the disconnect the plug from the original oil sender because I can’t seem to get it?
best way is to take manifold off
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 04:08 PM
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Here is a video on removing the Oil Sender. I believe 1.21 minutes into the video shows how to do it. Hope this helps.

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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 01:05 PM
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Remove the intake. Takes 30 minutes and give you the opportunity to clean everything.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 03:24 PM
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+10 , i have previous to replace my oil pressure sensor unit by removing the intake manifold
I go to an hydraulik professionnal to built an relocated system with 2 fitting :: M16 X 1.5 male at one extremity and M16X1.5 female at the over extremity
I put some pics when it was made
PS : Sorry for my bad writting
Fred
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Old Oct 30, 2019 | 01:28 PM
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There is a giant thread here on relocating the sender with an extension. I run one on my daily 99 and just ordered another for my newer Z. If the sender ever goes again, you can replace it in less than 5 minutes. Search my handle and oil relocate and the thread will come up. Cost is about 100
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Old Oct 30, 2019 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Robrote
Remove the intake. Takes 30 minutes and give you the opportunity to clean everything.
Is it really that easy? If so, I'd probably just do that. Assuming you leave the throttle body, injector rails, etc. all attached and just lift off the manifold. Do you replace gaskets each time you remove the manifold?
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Old Nov 2, 2019 | 03:30 AM
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
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Old Nov 2, 2019 | 11:07 PM
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Neither of the links work anymore.
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Old Nov 2, 2019 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by roegs
Is it really that easy? If so, I'd probably just do that. Assuming you leave the throttle body, injector rails, etc. all attached and just lift off the manifold. Do you replace gaskets each time you remove the manifold?
Unless you are pro or have done it several times before it will take a lot longer than 30 minutes to do the job. You will need to remove all the air cleaner and mass air flow sensor and all other assorted electrical connections and tubes. Most people remove the throttle body for better access but it is only 3 or four bolts. The fuel rail can stay attached and you can usually reuse the same gaskets several times if they are in good shape. Don't forget to extend the vacuum line at the back of the manifold to make installation easier. I'm sure there are u-tube videos of this if you do a quick search. I suggest you take the time to view some of them.
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 12:39 PM
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Here's a good write up with pictures. It should be very helpful if you have never done this job.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...n-dummies.html
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 03:45 PM
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Thank's for this How to
But i don't understand why we must dry the coolant for this operation ??
fred
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by fred of france
Thank's for this How to
But i don't understand why we must dry the coolant for this operation ??
fred
A small coolant line runs thru the throttle body. The line is not needed unless you drive in really cold weather. Many people simply by pass it by connecting the ends or just plug the ends up with a screw while you work. If there is no pressure in the coolant system only a small amount will drain out even if you don't do anything but it can make a mess.
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 11:41 PM
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I just stuck my hand down there and replaced it without removing the manifold, a little tricky, but doable. Was quick
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Old Nov 21, 2019 | 02:03 PM
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Hello ,
Here is my oil sender relocation , only made with M16 X 1.50 fitting
I will show you how i'll install it in the engine compartment


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Old Nov 24, 2019 | 05:02 PM
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Years ago I relocated my OPS to the left cylinder bank and added a OP gauge before the sender. A friend told me to find a repro yard and by the OPS from a low milage C5 if the opportunity was available. I was able to do that and put it in a safe place. When my original finally when nuts, I could not find it so bought a bronze on at AutozZone. Eventually found the good one that I hid on myself and this week, the AZ one first showed low OP and then went to 80+. Dropped the OEM one back in and it shows about 2 lbs higher pressure than the aftermarket. Now I am back looking for another low mileage HM OPS. The relocation made it a dream, unscrew old,put in new and 3 minutes later your done.
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