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Vacuum supply for HVAC

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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 05:26 PM
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Default Vacuum supply for HVAC

I've read the posts about fixing the vacuum leaks to get the HVAC from blowing our of all vents... I can find the vacuum canister behind the passenger side front quarter panel. What I can't find/see is the supply from the back of the engine. I can't even get my hand to the back of the engine to feel for it.

What am I missing?
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 06:53 PM
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It comes off the rear of the intake manifold and enters a wire loom with various wires to go down to below the battery. Black plastic tube less than 1/4" OD. Check this thread:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...with-pics.html
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jim993
It comes off the rear of the intake manifold and enters a wire loom with various wires to go down to below the battery. Black plastic tube less than 1/4" OD. Check this thread:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...with-pics.html
Thanks Jim.

I am familiar (by way of posts and pics) on where is originates off the back of the intake manifold. My problem is I just can't see it or feel it or even get my hand to the back of the manifold. . Wondering if there is some sort of trick that I am missing other than pull the intake manifold...
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 11:12 AM
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I don't know of any way to get to it there other than to remove the manifold. I've had mine off twice, once for the oil pressure sender, the second to relocate the oil pressure sender, add insulation under the manifold and to add rear coolant air bleed lines. A good time to do everything back there including extending the vacuum tube enough to make re installation of the manifold easier.
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 11:25 AM
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You really need to remove the intake. Be prepared to extend the vacuum line to make it easier to work with. That short line that the factory provided sucks!

The line is nylon and can crack/rot and leak. If that's the case, be prepared to run all new line.

You can test the vacuum supply line to the canister with the engine running. Should have VACUUM at that line if its properly connected to the manifold and not damaged..



Bill
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 11:25 AM
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You really need to remove the intake. Be prepared to extend the vacuum line to make it easier to work with. That short line that the factory provided sucks!

The line is nylon and can crack/rot and leak. If that's the case, be prepared to run all new line.

You can test the vacuum supply line to the canister with the engine running. Should have VACUUM at that line if its properly connected to the manifold and not damaged..



Bill
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jim993
I don't know of any way to get to it there other than to remove the manifold. I've had mine off twice, once for the oil pressure sender, the second to relocate the oil pressure sender, add insulation under the manifold and to add rear coolant air bleed lines. A good time to do everything back there including extending the vacuum tube enough to make re installation of the manifold easier.
Thanks Jim. Appreciate the feedback. Other than ease of access, is there any other real reason to relocated the oil pressure sender? And what insulation under the manifold are you referencing?


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You really need to remove the intake. Be prepared to extend the vacuum line to make it easier to work with. That short line that the factory provided sucks!

The line is nylon and can crack/rot and leak. If that's the case, be prepared to run all new line.

You can test the vacuum supply line to the canister with the engine running. Should have VACUUM at that line if its properly connected to the manifold and not damaged..



Bill
Thanks Bill. In reviewing the write up, I didn't see where there was a specific reference to removing the intake manifold. I was hoping that I could reach without taking off the manifold. The process does not look terribly difficult and is well documented on the board. And it looks like I will need a new set of intake manifold gaskets and a new throttle body gasket.
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:18 PM
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When I relocated the sender, I added a mechanical pressure gauge which can be read with the hood open. If a sender fails in the future I will be able to confirm (or not) that the engine still has oil pressure. And, of course changing the sender is a simple 5 minute job.

I'll send a picture if you wish-

Here is info on the insulation:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...SABEgI2NfD_BwE
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