LS1 Front End Mods
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 279
Likes: 77
From: Granby CT
LS1 Front End Mods
Hey guys, My '00 FRC with 100K on the odometer has developed a wobble in the harmonic balancer. (Yes this was something I saw coming and was keeping an eye out for) Needless to say this winter I plan to swap the OEM balancer for an ATI Balancer with 10% under-drive pulley. I do all my own work on my cars and plan to tackle a few other items while i have access to the front end of the engine. Here's my to do list:
- ATI Balancer
- Tick Performance Street Heat Stage 1 Cam
- Tick Performance Dual Valve Springs
- Hardened Chromoly Push Rods
- C5 Z06 Timing Chain
- C5 Z06 Oil Pump
- Melling Timing Chain Damper
- New OEM water pump
- Tick Performance Rocker Trunion Kit
- All New Gaskets, Seals and Belts for anything removed
Is there anything else that i'll have easy access to that I'm missing? The car is my daily driver durring the summer, but takes a beating on the track and mountain roads, so i want to make sure that im covering my bases as i plan to put many more tough miles on her in the future.
Any suggestions or comments on the selected to do list items would be appreciated. Charlie
- ATI Balancer
- Tick Performance Street Heat Stage 1 Cam
- Tick Performance Dual Valve Springs
- Hardened Chromoly Push Rods
- C5 Z06 Timing Chain
- C5 Z06 Oil Pump
- Melling Timing Chain Damper
- New OEM water pump
- Tick Performance Rocker Trunion Kit
- All New Gaskets, Seals and Belts for anything removed
Is there anything else that i'll have easy access to that I'm missing? The car is my daily driver durring the summer, but takes a beating on the track and mountain roads, so i want to make sure that im covering my bases as i plan to put many more tough miles on her in the future.
Any suggestions or comments on the selected to do list items would be appreciated. Charlie
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Leave the stock pump. Just a new pickup tube gasket. You’ll never see the difference except your wallet.
Do a stage 2 cam. You’ll wish you did later.
Upper/lower radiator hoses.
I like a 160 thermostat (I tuned my fans with hp tuners).
Put a new factory PCV hose assembly. They run about $125 for the LS1 and get clogged with crusty oil buildup causing oil pan and/or rear seal oil leaks from pressure buildup. 100k is ripe for changing.
Add an oil catch can if you don’t already have one.
I prefer stock pushrods. If you miss a shift the weak pushrods will bend before the valves. You aren’t running gorilla springs to keep up with your .640 lift cam. Stock pushrods are just fine, lighter too which fights valve float.
If you ever think you’ll add a supercharger, get a stock diameter pulley and pin the crank now. Save hassle 5 years from now. If you stay under drive know idle rpm parking lot will have your steering wheel tougher to turn unless you strategically blip the throttle.
Clean the leaves from your radiator while it’s out, fins will still be full of gritty gravel, you’ll see. They’re cheap, consider a new one.
Blue loctite your rocker & oil pickup bolts.
Do a stage 2 cam. You’ll wish you did later.
Upper/lower radiator hoses.
I like a 160 thermostat (I tuned my fans with hp tuners).
Put a new factory PCV hose assembly. They run about $125 for the LS1 and get clogged with crusty oil buildup causing oil pan and/or rear seal oil leaks from pressure buildup. 100k is ripe for changing.
Add an oil catch can if you don’t already have one.
I prefer stock pushrods. If you miss a shift the weak pushrods will bend before the valves. You aren’t running gorilla springs to keep up with your .640 lift cam. Stock pushrods are just fine, lighter too which fights valve float.
If you ever think you’ll add a supercharger, get a stock diameter pulley and pin the crank now. Save hassle 5 years from now. If you stay under drive know idle rpm parking lot will have your steering wheel tougher to turn unless you strategically blip the throttle.
Clean the leaves from your radiator while it’s out, fins will still be full of gritty gravel, you’ll see. They’re cheap, consider a new one.
Blue loctite your rocker & oil pickup bolts.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 279
Likes: 77
From: Granby CT
Thanks Josh.
Do you have experience with Tick's cams? The stage 1 street heat was their suggestion. Just wondering what your rational is to go for a stage 2.
The radiator and hoses were changed over the summer as my OEM radiator had started to leak. otherwise it would defiantly be on my list.
PCV hose and catch can are great ideas, those will be added to the winter project.
My only reason for swapping the oil pump is just that I don't wan to have to pull the balancer and timing cover if it goes in the future. I figured 100$ is worth the piece of mind.
Do you think it's worth pinning the balancer even if I never plan to supercharge the car? Also how tough is it to tune with HP Tuners? I've done a bit of research on the possibility of tuning the car myself rather than bringing it to have it tuned. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade and understand the concepts behind tuning but have never played with the software and ultimately don't want to risk damaging my engine.
Thanks for your input, Charlie
Do you have experience with Tick's cams? The stage 1 street heat was their suggestion. Just wondering what your rational is to go for a stage 2.
The radiator and hoses were changed over the summer as my OEM radiator had started to leak. otherwise it would defiantly be on my list.
PCV hose and catch can are great ideas, those will be added to the winter project.
My only reason for swapping the oil pump is just that I don't wan to have to pull the balancer and timing cover if it goes in the future. I figured 100$ is worth the piece of mind.
Do you think it's worth pinning the balancer even if I never plan to supercharge the car? Also how tough is it to tune with HP Tuners? I've done a bit of research on the possibility of tuning the car myself rather than bringing it to have it tuned. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade and understand the concepts behind tuning but have never played with the software and ultimately don't want to risk damaging my engine.
Thanks for your input, Charlie
Racer
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 449
Likes: 158
From: Aiken, SC
You could always hang a Procharger off the front too. Ya know, while you're there 
I had the Tick SNS stage 3 in my old LS1 camaro. Loved it. My tuner described it as one click short of a max-effort cam, and even being cam-only I didn't mind driving it around town at all. The sound was amazing and the way the power came in around 3500 was intoxicating. I'm probably a good bit more tolerant of what I drive on the street and don't like compromises, so I bought it for power and that's what I got.
IMO, if you're going to go through the effort of changing the PCV hoses, go ahead and do the ls6 valley cover and system if you don't already have it. Add a catch can to that and you won't have anything else to worry about.
I like to use a high pressure, standard volume oil pump. At least a ported LS6. The cost vs peace of mind is worth it to me.
I agree with Josh about the pushrods and pinning the crank. People have beat the hell out of unopened stock motors, banging off the limiter and missing shifts and the pushrods aren't the weak link. Pinning the crank is another peace of mind item and one less thing to have to do later, just in case.
I had the Tick SNS stage 3 in my old LS1 camaro. Loved it. My tuner described it as one click short of a max-effort cam, and even being cam-only I didn't mind driving it around town at all. The sound was amazing and the way the power came in around 3500 was intoxicating. I'm probably a good bit more tolerant of what I drive on the street and don't like compromises, so I bought it for power and that's what I got.
IMO, if you're going to go through the effort of changing the PCV hoses, go ahead and do the ls6 valley cover and system if you don't already have it. Add a catch can to that and you won't have anything else to worry about.
I like to use a high pressure, standard volume oil pump. At least a ported LS6. The cost vs peace of mind is worth it to me.
I agree with Josh about the pushrods and pinning the crank. People have beat the hell out of unopened stock motors, banging off the limiter and missing shifts and the pushrods aren't the weak link. Pinning the crank is another peace of mind item and one less thing to have to do later, just in case.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
1. What are your engine power GOALS???
2. What is your budget?
3. X2 on a quality catch can and replacement PCV pluming and all the other suggestions that Josh recommended.
Answers to #1 & #2 will better define any further recommendations and improvements.
Bill
2. What is your budget?
3. X2 on a quality catch can and replacement PCV pluming and all the other suggestions that Josh recommended.
Answers to #1 & #2 will better define any further recommendations and improvements.
Bill
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 786
Likes: 46
From: Tucson, AZ
I was in your situation on my track car, 110k miles. Went with a mild BTR truck cam 224/230 w/ .550 lift using LS6 springs... with stock exhaust manifolds feels great to me on track hitting 6500 rev limit regularly.
Dyco stock pinned balancer... mainly so I didn't have to torque to 250lbs
ARP balancer bolt
LS2 chain (I think)
Melling oil pump with high pressure spring
5/16 7.40 pushrods (although I like the idea of stock fuse)... measure your cam base circles though, may need slightly longer pushrod
New water pump
tick chain dampener
DRM solid steering rack bushing
I did comp cams trunnion awhile ago and seems fine but if I was to do it again may go bushings or updated OE (think design was revised from early LS1).
I also did LS6 2004 valley cover before... I vent both valve covers using 5.3L drivers side due to better baffle design and metal hose nipple. With 2 ebay catch cans.
I do all my own tuning, so I'd say go for it. If you understand tuning parameters its not hard, just tedious learning the software and all the different tables.
Dyco stock pinned balancer... mainly so I didn't have to torque to 250lbs
ARP balancer bolt
LS2 chain (I think)
Melling oil pump with high pressure spring
5/16 7.40 pushrods (although I like the idea of stock fuse)... measure your cam base circles though, may need slightly longer pushrod
New water pump
tick chain dampener
DRM solid steering rack bushing
I did comp cams trunnion awhile ago and seems fine but if I was to do it again may go bushings or updated OE (think design was revised from early LS1).
I also did LS6 2004 valley cover before... I vent both valve covers using 5.3L drivers side due to better baffle design and metal hose nipple. With 2 ebay catch cans.
I do all my own tuning, so I'd say go for it. If you understand tuning parameters its not hard, just tedious learning the software and all the different tables.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 279
Likes: 77
From: Granby CT
Hi Bill,
1. I don't really have a power number or 1/4 mile time or anything in my head that I aim to hit necessarily. What i want is a car thats solid, reliable and fun/enjoyable to drive spiritedly. Track time is minimal compared to the time i spend on the street. I don't really like the idea of sacrificing low end torque as in my experience thats really that makes a car "feel" fast when your not winding it out on a track. I know that in reality a good set of heads is probably the way to go for what I'm looking for but I'm pulling the balancer anyway so figured I'd tackle anything I might want to down the line while i have access.
2. This winter's project I'd like to keep in the $2000 range. (parts only, ill provide labor) But long term my budget is pretty flexible, but over a period of time. Next year I'll most likely be doing something with the heads, last year i rebuilt the driveline, clutch and rear diff, the year after Im sure i'll have another equally full to do list.
What i know is that I want to be able to push the car without worrying about how my mods have gone too far and are over stressing countless components that are just waiting to break. Upgrading things in stages so that i don't create an obvious week link is important.
Look forward to hearing your suggestions.
1. I don't really have a power number or 1/4 mile time or anything in my head that I aim to hit necessarily. What i want is a car thats solid, reliable and fun/enjoyable to drive spiritedly. Track time is minimal compared to the time i spend on the street. I don't really like the idea of sacrificing low end torque as in my experience thats really that makes a car "feel" fast when your not winding it out on a track. I know that in reality a good set of heads is probably the way to go for what I'm looking for but I'm pulling the balancer anyway so figured I'd tackle anything I might want to down the line while i have access.
2. This winter's project I'd like to keep in the $2000 range. (parts only, ill provide labor) But long term my budget is pretty flexible, but over a period of time. Next year I'll most likely be doing something with the heads, last year i rebuilt the driveline, clutch and rear diff, the year after Im sure i'll have another equally full to do list.
What i know is that I want to be able to push the car without worrying about how my mods have gone too far and are over stressing countless components that are just waiting to break. Upgrading things in stages so that i don't create an obvious week link is important.
Look forward to hearing your suggestions.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 279
Likes: 77
From: Granby CT
Thanks for the Info Joshboody.
How to you like that solid steering rack bushing? I was thinking about doing that a while back when i replaced all of my suspension bushings but never got around to it.
My concern is starting tuning for the first time with a car with a new cam in it. I bet with some trial and error that i could tweak the tables slowly through an iterative process of data-logging and making changes. But starting with a car that may not even want to idle is a bit nerve racking.
How to you like that solid steering rack bushing? I was thinking about doing that a while back when i replaced all of my suspension bushings but never got around to it.
My concern is starting tuning for the first time with a car with a new cam in it. I bet with some trial and error that i could tweak the tables slowly through an iterative process of data-logging and making changes. But starting with a car that may not even want to idle is a bit nerve racking.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 786
Likes: 46
From: Tucson, AZ
Thanks for the Info Joshboody.
How to you like that solid steering rack bushing? I was thinking about doing that a while back when i replaced all of my suspension bushings but never got around to it.
My concern is starting tuning for the first time with a car with a new cam in it. I bet with some trial and error that i could tweak the tables slowly through an iterative process of data-logging and making changes. But starting with a car that may not even want to idle is a bit nerve racking.
How to you like that solid steering rack bushing? I was thinking about doing that a while back when i replaced all of my suspension bushings but never got around to it.
My concern is starting tuning for the first time with a car with a new cam in it. I bet with some trial and error that i could tweak the tables slowly through an iterative process of data-logging and making changes. But starting with a car that may not even want to idle is a bit nerve racking.
Steering bushing... eh, not sure I felt anything. I changed shocks recently and eh, didn't really feel a diff either. Maybe I'm oblivious.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
This is what I run
243 heads z06 originals
zz performance push rods.
c7 high performance lifters.
2 bar gm map
AA Trickflow balancer std size with pinned crank.
high out put coils and wires/ tr6 plugs gapped low as possible!
60 lb injectors
Stock z51 cam - Ls9 going in next month!
vararam plenum
AA v3si 3.8 ( 6 rib) with 8 rib brackets and sub pulleys on a 6 rib belt.
New gm idler driver side
Ls3 timing swap. Cover,chain&gear
Racetronix 58 psi jet pump. / Hotwire kit! Ends in 007
Kenbell Bap from Aa as well.
Stage 2.5 snow performance kit ( barley need it actually)
Aem x series 334 . Yup
Upcoming khaos spacer with 3/8 side port for your Nos or whatever you like to put there! 4 inch piping as much as possible.
Debating 100mm ls3 maf. I just don’t know on that part better support 1400 if I do give it go.
Sending throttle body in for velocity stack port and a few mm up on the the blade. The little things that prob make the difference how many G’s your feeling! Grab the 100 off the dash! If ya can
Also during the cam I would to order some forged -10 std bore forged pistons with forged connection rods and high performance bearing. This is when my dual coils spring are coming into play.
Its just a little 346!
243 heads z06 originals
zz performance push rods.
c7 high performance lifters.
2 bar gm map
AA Trickflow balancer std size with pinned crank.
high out put coils and wires/ tr6 plugs gapped low as possible!
60 lb injectors
Stock z51 cam - Ls9 going in next month!
vararam plenum
AA v3si 3.8 ( 6 rib) with 8 rib brackets and sub pulleys on a 6 rib belt.
New gm idler driver side
Ls3 timing swap. Cover,chain&gear
Racetronix 58 psi jet pump. / Hotwire kit! Ends in 007
Kenbell Bap from Aa as well.
Stage 2.5 snow performance kit ( barley need it actually)
Aem x series 334 . Yup
Upcoming khaos spacer with 3/8 side port for your Nos or whatever you like to put there! 4 inch piping as much as possible.
Debating 100mm ls3 maf. I just don’t know on that part better support 1400 if I do give it go.
Sending throttle body in for velocity stack port and a few mm up on the the blade. The little things that prob make the difference how many G’s your feeling! Grab the 100 off the dash! If ya can
Also during the cam I would to order some forged -10 std bore forged pistons with forged connection rods and high performance bearing. This is when my dual coils spring are coming into play.
Its just a little 346!
Last edited by Speedy007; Nov 15, 2019 at 01:33 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 144
From: Miami
Some are saying no new oil pump. I vote for yes, put a new higher pressure Melling oil pump for just extra piece of mind. They're probably right you don't need it, but this will be the opportunity to get to it; that's what I did at least. I also vote for 160F thermostat. If you're having issues with your power steering rack (if Magnasteer took a cr*p), then this is the opportunity too. My Magnasteer just died at exactly 100k on my 99FRC; still works but I get more steering effort now at slow speeds. Another tip, unless she's been a garage queen, you can expect to replace the knock sensor seals/grommets and maybe even the sensors and harness while you're at it. If the TSB on the 're-sealing' of the grommets hasn't been done, it would be good to just get new knock sensors, new grommets, and new knock sensor harness and just replace them while the intake is out. One of my knock sensors was super corroded when I did the build and harness was in bad shape. Also, the oil pressure sensor if it's never been changed. Again, this is all what I did when I did my cam and was totally worth it for peace of mind. I didn't do the catch can but now I'm regretting that I haven't done it yet. Also you didn't mention new lifters. You really must/should put new lifters with the new cam.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
Some are saying no new oil pump. I vote for yes, put a new higher pressure Melling oil pump for just extra piece of mind. They're probably right you don't need it, but this will be the opportunity to get to it; that's what I did at least. I also vote for 160F thermostat. If you're having issues with your power steering rack (if Magnasteer took a cr*p), then this is the opportunity too. My Magnasteer just died at exactly 100k on my 99FRC; still works but I get more steering effort now at slow speeds. Another tip, unless she's been a garage queen, you can expect to replace the knock sensor seals/grommets and maybe even the sensors and harness while you're at it. If the TSB on the 're-sealing' of the grommets hasn't been done, it would be good to just get new knock sensors, new grommets, and new knock sensor harness and just replace them while the intake is out. One of my knock sensors was super corroded when I did the build and harness was in bad shape. Also, the oil pressure sensor if it's never been changed. Again, this is all what I did when I did my cam and was totally worth it for peace of mind. I didn't do the catch can but now I'm regretting that I haven't done it yet. Also you didn't mention new lifters. You really must/should put new lifters with the new cam.
Last edited by Speedy007; Nov 15, 2019 at 02:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 279
Likes: 77
From: Granby CT
Some are saying no new oil pump. I vote for yes, put a new higher pressure Melling oil pump for just extra piece of mind. They're probably right you don't need it, but this will be the opportunity to get to it; that's what I did at least. I also vote for 160F thermostat. If you're having issues with your power steering rack (if Magnasteer took a cr*p), then this is the opportunity too. My Magnasteer just died at exactly 100k on my 99FRC; still works but I get more steering effort now at slow speeds. Another tip, unless she's been a garage queen, you can expect to replace the knock sensor seals/grommets and maybe even the sensors and harness while you're at it. If the TSB on the 're-sealing' of the grommets hasn't been done, it would be good to just get new knock sensors, new grommets, and new knock sensor harness and just replace them while the intake is out. One of my knock sensors was super corroded when I did the build and harness was in bad shape. Also, the oil pressure sensor if it's never been changed. Again, this is all what I did when I did my cam and was totally worth it for peace of mind. I didn't do the catch can but now I'm regretting that I haven't done it yet. Also you didn't mention new lifters. You really must/should put new lifters with the new cam.
I do not plan to pull the heads or intake this year to do the cam install. My thought was to hold off on lifters for a year until i pull the heads. I think I'm going to have texas speed rebuild and port mine next winter. At that time ill do another set of push rods, lifters, knock sensors, oil pressure sensor ect.
This was actually the suggestion of the guys over at Tick Performance. They said that leaving the stock lifters 5 - 10K miles wouldn't seriously negatively effect the cams life. I was pretty surprised by that as i had alway been told that a new cam required new lifters but when looking into it many guys said the same thing about cam swaps in the LS engines.