It was a lot of damn work but I got the motor out. For those that said they pull the motor from the top without dropping the subframe do something special. I don't know how it's possible. I had to drop the subframe about 10 inches to get enough clearance. I'm not looking forward to putting the motor back in and lining up the input shaft to the motor.

As you can see lost a piston. I drained the oil and there was no metal in the oil. I'm waiting to hear from the machine shop on when they want me to drop the motor off.

Questions: If the stock crank is good should a reuse it or just get a forged crank.

KT

 

What are you plans to repair or add a more permanent solution?

 

If block and crank is good then I will reuse.
If block is good but crank is bad I will stroke the motor.

Will use forged rods and pistons, Johnson 2110 lifters, stud mains, arp bolt heads, new oil pump and chain. New cam and springs and trunion kit for rocker arms.

Going to have the heads (243) gone through as well.

 

Pushrods wouldn't have given you a coolant leak.
at the bottom of the image we are looking at the top lip of the bore. Is there an illusion being created by a piece of gasket that is no longer lined up or what am I looking at there?

yes I can see your piston is broken and some additional damage took place when the broken piece clobbered the top of the Piston again at around 12 oclock in the photo.

 

the tiny specs on that piston look like detonation, that's probably what caused the cracked ring land... might not be a bad idea to have your injectors cleaned and check out the rest of your fuel system when things go back together... if that all checks out consider another tuner... how much power was the car making and are you using meth or e85?

 

Yea its just an illusion in the pic, just a piece of old gasket.

 

I think the specs are part off the piston that broke up and got smashed on the piston. None of the other pistons have any signs. I was making 595rwhp no meth or E85.

 

not the chunks, the little tiny specs that look like pepper... that's what detonation looks like and will kill a stock motor fast... I'd guess that you either have an injector that wasn't spraying properly, bad gas, the tune was a little too aggressive, or a mixture of those things... it should have lasted a long time at that power level assuming everything was done correctly... you might look into adding a meth kit for a little extra insurance

 

injectors are new only 1000 miles on them.

 

doesn't mean they can't fail... just giving you some things to check, obviously you have an issue on that cylinder and something had to cause it

 

I was running 10psi. On a stock motor.

I wish I could pin point what happened.

 

that doesn't matter either, manifold pressure could have been 30psi but it should have lived a long time at 600rwhp

 

I may be able to help first we need to know what injectors ...was this the complete kit from AA with injectors and fuel pump? What could be a pre detonated charge of fuel or built up fuel either in the piston it’s self or somewhere in the head . Either way it’s solvable. If the cars running rich which it’s a great possibility either through your power enrichment setting or injector data is way out in left field here. A head gasket leak also could have cause your pistons not to burn all the fuel correctly which your piston tops indicate for a long time the car hasn’t been running correctly the brown tells me there a mixture of lean spots in the burn.Basically accumulation of fuel will ignite eventually and when it dispersed that load it was adnormal look at that split ouch it’s like Mike bit a chunk out of that pity! A normal piston which I regret now not picturing during my build was all black carbon layers of it to just how you center looks is how the whole piston should look the middle shall have more deposits then the rest. If your open look into a 6.125 rods and like you said forged pistons! I would say go at least -8cc for compression sakes even further to a -15cc might give you a 9.7 c/r on a stock std bore forged ! A 4.0 or a 3.75 forged crank isn’t bad idea either!

 

Yes it was the stock A&A kit with 60 pound injectors and BAP.

 

I dropped motor off at builder. He said he will get it torn apart and checked out. There are some marks on the cylinder wall that have me a little concerned since you can’t do much to these blocks when it comes to boring or sleeves.

May have to look for a short or long block.

KT

 

Top picture left to right 3rd valve in looks mushroomed. Some sort of lean conditions! Spark plugs could have been to tight also. Only hand tight with a quarter if that just snug! I would also flash back the stock file and get another reputable tuner to take over and re tune totally in SD !

 

6.2 blocks are cheap enough and it’s a great upgrade a built block might set you back 4500 ! A complete 525 ls3 prob around 7500 new ! Iron isn’t a bad choice if you want to make monster power but willing to take on a 88 lb more of a sinker lol!

 

I haven't found to many short blocks for 4500.

KT

 

This literally took me 5 seconds to find I’m sure with a in depth search you could save more ! Or haggle if your negotiation skills are at par !

 

Welcome to the club, but mine happened at 450whp level on road course. I had similar symptoms of a tapping noise, thought it was top end, but it ended up being cracked piston and actually the cylinder liner was cracked too, which is where the water came from. Give the cylinder wall a really close look. In my case, it's hard to say for sure, but I believe the issue was heat and caused the piston rings to butt up and eventually crack the piston/liner. Hard to say exactly how it happened or what came first, but heat was likely the cause, and weak pistons/tight ring gap didn't help the situation.

Should be fine to re-use the crank assuming no bearing/journal damage.

I did a basic rebuild with Weisco forged 4032 pistons and Scat I-beam rods. Bottom end was done by Schwanke engines and sent to local shop. My heads were OK and reused. Schwanke did a pretty good job I think, at first I had lots of blowby but over time it went down and I ended up upgrading the pcv system anyways. Now car is supercharged and engine doesn't burn any oil and doesn't seem to have any issues at all.

https://www.schwankeengines.com/coll...um-short-block

Their site seems have changed a bit since I used it... it was like 700 or 800 more for piston+rod upgrade option. I forget total price and I can't find the invoice but I want to say it was in the 4k range for assembled shortblock alum 5.7.