Z06 motor trouble
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 102
From: Virginia
with the LS3 block I need to change intake, injectors and TB due to having to use LS3 heads correct?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 102
From: Virginia
Welcome to the club, but mine happened at 450whp level on road course. I had similar symptoms of a tapping noise, thought it was top end, but it ended up being cracked piston and actually the cylinder liner was cracked too, which is where the water came from. Give the cylinder wall a really close look. In my case, it's hard to say for sure, but I believe the issue was heat and caused the piston rings to butt up and eventually crack the piston/liner. Hard to say exactly how it happened or what came first, but heat was likely the cause, and weak pistons/tight ring gap didn't help the situation.
Should be fine to re-use the crank assuming no bearing/journal damage.
I did a basic rebuild with Weisco forged 4032 pistons and Scat I-beam rods. Bottom end was done by Schwanke engines and sent to local shop. My heads were OK and reused. Schwanke did a pretty good job I think, at first I had lots of blowby but over time it went down and I ended up upgrading the pcv system anyways. Now car is supercharged and engine doesn't burn any oil and doesn't seem to have any issues at all.
https://www.schwankeengines.com/coll...um-short-block
Their site seems have changed a bit since I used it... it was like 700 or 800 more for piston+rod upgrade option. I forget total price and I can't find the invoice but I want to say it was in the 4k range for assembled shortblock alum 5.7.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
Throttle body change it or not change it. A velocity stack port wouldn’t hurt lol there’s a place in So Cal I read about does this unique port! It all depends man how much power and fast you want to go. My goal is 1k to 1500 on a aluminum built block! Although I just want the power to have if I need it
Last edited by Speedy007; Jan 14, 2020 at 12:32 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
I actually could kick my self in the *** once or twice for getting the AA and not a complete ls3 525!
Im going 243 heads ported iridium valves / Btr intake / AA kit 6.2 ls3 and I have all the other little trinkets as well
Im going 243 heads ported iridium valves / Btr intake / AA kit 6.2 ls3 and I have all the other little trinkets as well
Last edited by Speedy007; Jan 14, 2020 at 12:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 102
From: Virginia
part of me thinks I should just sell the A&A kit and just go back to N/A to avoid all these damn problems
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
I was thinking to sell it and put in a whipple 3.3. or magna so I could run my vara true air ram again. ! I fell it would make more power live and learn right . I really don’t see much over the vara ram at 100+ anyways so I bet boost is just about equivalent at that speed ! 9lbs of forced true air ! So I dunno I’ll prob get rid of my blower package after I get some more use out of it. I’ve had it less then 10k miles on the car . I like the sound of the BoV that’s about all that gets me .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jan 14, 2020 at 12:00 PM.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 102
From: Virginia
Ok, so got the call the block is good to go.
Next question. keep at 347 or stroke to 383?
The builder really likes MOLONAR Cranks and rods. I don't know much about them but there reviews are really good.
Next question. keep at 347 or stroke to 383?
The builder really likes MOLONAR Cranks and rods. I don't know much about them but there reviews are really good.
Last edited by KT35; Jan 15, 2020 at 11:26 AM. Reason: need to change
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 102
From: Virginia
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
A 6.125 ls forged rod will get rid of your piston slap!
weisco professional performance piston there’s a fellow using the on a de stroke 5.7! To a 5.3 ls boat engine making 3k hp! -12cc to -15cc will be needed to keep compression lower for boost! Either way you go make sure it’s all forged ! Crank,piston,rods,pushrods/dual valve springs/1.82 rockers ! What about the cam? Another piece of the puzzle ...lol oil pump / timing gears it all adds up! Get a new block assembly it’s cheaper! Good luck whichever way you go We are all here watching!!!
How much power do you actually want to make and how much power are you capable of handling! 735 crank hp on my 5.7! isn’t enough to keep my adrenaline fed ! I run a stock bore and crank!
Speaking of which where is Lary,Tom & Moe haha
weisco professional performance piston there’s a fellow using the on a de stroke 5.7! To a 5.3 ls boat engine making 3k hp! -12cc to -15cc will be needed to keep compression lower for boost! Either way you go make sure it’s all forged ! Crank,piston,rods,pushrods/dual valve springs/1.82 rockers ! What about the cam? Another piece of the puzzle ...lol oil pump / timing gears it all adds up! Get a new block assembly it’s cheaper! Good luck whichever way you go We are all here watching!!!
How much power do you actually want to make and how much power are you capable of handling! 735 crank hp on my 5.7! isn’t enough to keep my adrenaline fed ! I run a stock bore and crank!
Speaking of which where is Lary,Tom & Moe haha
Last edited by Speedy007; Jan 15, 2020 at 12:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 102
From: Virginia
Ok so here is the setup after talking with the builder
383CI
9.8-1 CR
LS6 Block bored to 3.905
ARP Main Studs and mains line bored
Molnar Forged 4.00 stroker crank
Molnar Forged (boost) 6.125 rods with ARP 2000 bolts
Mahle 14cc Dish Forged pistons
Cam Motion 225/236 591/598 114CL
Melling H/V oil pump
Rollmaster Timing Chain
Johnson 2110 lifters
Stock 243 heads .003 milled, port and polish, valve job, new seats and .660 springs
LS9 Head gasket
ARP head bolts.
Trunion Upgrade for LS6 rockers
KT
383CI
9.8-1 CR
LS6 Block bored to 3.905
ARP Main Studs and mains line bored
Molnar Forged 4.00 stroker crank
Molnar Forged (boost) 6.125 rods with ARP 2000 bolts
Mahle 14cc Dish Forged pistons
Cam Motion 225/236 591/598 114CL
Melling H/V oil pump
Rollmaster Timing Chain
Johnson 2110 lifters
Stock 243 heads .003 milled, port and polish, valve job, new seats and .660 springs
LS9 Head gasket
ARP head bolts.
Trunion Upgrade for LS6 rockers
KT
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 409
From: Portland OR
Good pile of parts. That will run nice!
Question for you since you just yanked the engine out the top. I will be installing a 6.2 in mine in the near future, in a 1 car garage. TT will have to remain in place.
Do you think unbolting the oil pan while the engine is in the car would have helped? I'll most likely be using the LS3 pan on the 6.2, and of course it isn't a batwing design.
Ron
Question for you since you just yanked the engine out the top. I will be installing a 6.2 in mine in the near future, in a 1 car garage. TT will have to remain in place.
Do you think unbolting the oil pan while the engine is in the car would have helped? I'll most likely be using the LS3 pan on the 6.2, and of course it isn't a batwing design.
Ron
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 102
From: Virginia
Good pile of parts. That will run nice!
Question for you since you just yanked the engine out the top. I will be installing a 6.2 in mine in the near future, in a 1 car garage. TT will have to remain in place.
Do you think unbolting the oil pan while the engine is in the car would have helped? I'll most likely be using the LS3 pan on the 6.2, and of course it isn't a batwing design.
Ron
Question for you since you just yanked the engine out the top. I will be installing a 6.2 in mine in the near future, in a 1 car garage. TT will have to remain in place.
Do you think unbolting the oil pan while the engine is in the car would have helped? I'll most likely be using the LS3 pan on the 6.2, and of course it isn't a batwing design.
Ron
You could unbolt the pan but I don’t think that would give you enough room. Leave the Torque tube attached to the trans. You will need to drop the front subframe about 8 to 10 inches!
KT
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 532
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
I don't think I'd want to trust the pan not to leak if I installed it from underneath with limited room anyway. One way or another, I'd be doing that pan install where it's out and easy to get to.