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I've owned my 2002 Lingenfelter C5 Z06 Twin Turbo for about a year and a half. The car just turned 9,000 miles and have never had a problem with it until now.
I let it sit for a few months over winter due to traveling for work and poor weather, without a battery tender on it. I would start it every week or two and just let it run to keep the battery up.
Well it died about 6 weeks ago, so I jumped it and let it run in the garage for about 20 minutes. It hasn't moved in about 5 months. No problems whatsoever. Went out of town for another month, came back and the battery was dead again, jumped it again and now I'm having the famous, "Reduced Engine Power", "SES", "low fuel" etc. etc. etc. warning lights. All of the gauges are pegged and it intermittently wont start, radio doesn't work, windows don't work, etc.
There are no codes, but it says "NO COMM" with 10-PCM, 28-TCS, 40-BCM, 58-SDM, 60-IPC, 80-RADIO, 99-HVAC, AO-LCDM, A1-RDCM.
Replaced the battery with a brand new one and still having the same issues.
Having researched this for a few days, I've exhausted my efforts and tried all of the possible fixes that I've read about. No luck.
YEP,,,,,, I DO! OPEN the doors and find the rubber accordion tube that connects the door with the A pillar. Grab the tube and collapse it and feel for the wire harness inside. Once you have that harness pinched, shake the crap out of the tube and then see if you get the indications back. If you do or don't let me know and I have a couple other quick checks you can try.
Talked to Bill Curlee. Checked all fuses, checked for corrosion on the connectors next to the BCM, (sorry for my lack of technical defintions), replaced the battery, checked for corrosion on all of the grounds.
When you turn the key to on do you get all of those DIC warning...the service vehicle soon, low fuel, reduced engine power and the fuel gauge goes to empty and the water temp gauge maxes out ??...or does this happen while driving ??...if it happens with the key on the car will either not start or start and stall...if you either have a short to ground or power on the serial data line (the single wire that allows all of the cars modules to communicate with each other) you will see all those messages. There is most likely one of the modules that either has a bad ground or power...the serial data line is looking for a place to "get back home" as it were so jumping on the data line is it's easiest path... Are you proficient with a multimeter ??….if you get those messages with the key on take your multimeter and see if you either have 12 volts or ground on pin 2 (pictured) on the DLC with key on (where you plug a scan tool into)...if the serial data lines is OK the multimeter will fluctuate between .3 to .5 volts...in reality it is 7 volts but you won't see that number with a multimeter...a scope is needed here... if you feel this troubleshooting is a little over your head take it to a diagnostic shop in your area (Express Auto Electric would be a good bet)...tell them you may have an issue with your data line...if they are a good shop they should have a scope and a CAN test box to diagnose this issue...if they plug their scan tool into the car and can't "communicate" with any module that is the first tip off..I don't know what else to tell you !!