Car issues and needed help
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 12
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From: North Carolina
Car issues and needed help
Hi everyone. I’m new to the forum and need some help with my 01 z06. It has 130,000 miles on it currently and i haven’t had any major issues until recently. My traction control and abs light were on and so I pulled the codes and sent my ebcm off for repair. Ebcm couldn’t be repaired so I purchased a rebuild one. Traction control and abs lights are still coming on when I move it and now getting the codes pcm-1041c, 1571h, 1638hc, TCS- c1228h, c1235h, c1277h, Adam-u1040h, radio-no comm, Ldcm-b2263h, b2265h, and scm-no comm. Any idea on what I have going on? Oh yeah I almost forgot that I have a charging fault message still showing even after I had the alternator rebuilt and re-grounded.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,320
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From: NW Chicago
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15
I would clear all your codes and see what comes back and take it from there. You can check the wiring harness and wires for the sensors at your wheels, for chaffed or frayed wires. Just an idea. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 12
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From: North Carolina
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
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From: Miami FL
Last edited by GCG; Apr 22, 2020 at 12:12 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
This is a well known problem and you can read more here. It is usually caused by bad contacts in a connector within the doors' rubber accordion that could corrupt the Serial Data Bus, impacting the normal data flow.
The Serial Data Bus goes through each rubber accordion to the corresponding door control module. The female pins of the connector on that wire harness get deformed (see picture below), causing bad contacts and loss of communication/corruption in the Serial Data Bus and affecting all modules linked by it.
Check the connectors for deformed pins. If bad pins are found you would need to repair the connector (disconnect the battery first), fixing the female pins so they have a positive grip, or replace it. If you want to replace the connector take a look at this post for some ideas.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
They just should have installed new brushes and kept the original regulator.
Last edited by GCG; Apr 22, 2020 at 04:05 PM.
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Instructor
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You may also want to check your wheel speed sensors. Take the tire off and you should see the sensor. Disconnect it and clean the electrical contacts, also make sure the wiring is not loose. Having just one of these without a good connection can cause problems with traction control and/or ABS.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 12
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From: North Carolina
You may also want to check your wheel speed sensors. Take the tire off and you should see the sensor. Disconnect it and clean the electrical contacts, also make sure the wiring is not loose. Having just one of these without a good connection can cause problems with traction control and/or ABS.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 12
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From: North Carolina
It seems they didn't use the right one, that's why you're having this problem now. I gave you a link with the correct voltage regulators above in Post 5.
They just should have installed new brushes and kept the original regulator.
They just should have installed new brushes and kept the original regulator.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
They should have kept the original one and just replaced the brushes. Most likely they already discarded it and that's not an option anymore, so the only solution would be to replace the voltage regulator again, but this time use the correct one linked in Post 5 above.
Take a look at this post for an in-depth analysis of the C5 alternator.
What makes this alternator so peculiar is that it is excited when its regulator receives a turn on signal of 10v at limited current provided by the PCM through the L wire. Not all regulators accept the turn on signal provided by the C5 PCM.
Another distinctive attribute described by Lionelhutz in this post:
The stock alternator has a soft turn-on regulator. You can watch how slowly the voltage increases when the engine starts. So, I suspect the message is caused by some aftermarket units that do not have a soft-start and basically jump to a high duty cycle until the voltage rises and the duty cycle drops again. The PCM is seeing the duty cycle go too high which triggers the charge fault message in the DIC.
Last edited by GCG; Apr 24, 2020 at 10:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 12
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From: North Carolina
They are missing the point. Is not that the alternator is bad, is that they used the wrong voltage regulator and your car's PCM is probably not able to turn it on, or it is turning on, but it doesn't have the required soft-start.
They should have kept the original one and just replaced the brushes. Most likely they already discarded it and that's not an option anymore, so the only solution would be to replace the voltage regulator again, but this time use the correct one linked in Post 5 above.
Take a look at this post for an in-depth analysis of the C5 alternator.
What makes this alternator so peculiar is that it is excited when its regulator receives a turn on signal of 10v at limited current provided by the PCM through the L wire. Not all regulators accept the turn on signal provided by the C5 PCM.
Another distinctive attribute described by Lionelhutz in this post:
They should have kept the original one and just replaced the brushes. Most likely they already discarded it and that's not an option anymore, so the only solution would be to replace the voltage regulator again, but this time use the correct one linked in Post 5 above.
Take a look at this post for an in-depth analysis of the C5 alternator.
What makes this alternator so peculiar is that it is excited when its regulator receives a turn on signal of 10v at limited current provided by the PCM through the L wire. Not all regulators accept the turn on signal provided by the C5 PCM.
Another distinctive attribute described by Lionelhutz in this post:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
[QUOTE=GCG;1601391302]Let us know how it goes. This is the link again to the post with the correct voltage regulators, including more details and additional links, I compiled back in 2016:
Thanks for your help.They replaced the voltage regulator with the correct one and now it’s working fine without the charge system fault message.
Thanks for your help.They replaced the voltage regulator with the correct one and now it’s working fine without the charge system fault message.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
