I have a 2000 Coupe 6 speed. Currently the oil pressure gauge just sits fully pegged, as high as it will go. The reading in the DIC stays at 130. From what I gather, this is the oil pressure sensor, which requires pulling the intake manifold. Debating if I want to pick up an LS6 intake manifold if I have to pull the old one anyway... But while I have it off, is there other stuff that I should do while I'm in there? New intake manifold gaskets for sure. New knock sensors? Or just the seals for them? Pop the injectors off and clean them? Is that even a thing people do? In case it's not clear, I'm pretty new to Corvettes and LS motors in general, lol. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks yall.

if it's running good leave the injectors alone, I would re-locate the oil sender and add a steam line conversion kit, eliminate the throttle body coolant lines, (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-306sb601) plugs and wires ???

more suggestions

change the pcv system to the 2004 version you will need a new valley cover, a pigtail hose and a plug for the driver side valve cover

Clean the oil that will be in the intake runners

​​​​​​​be careful of the vacuum connections at the back of the intake. The little plastic hose going to the vacuum accumulator can crack easily,or pull out of the rubber fitting.

check the knock sensors for crud around them. Be careful, the connector latches to a ceramic flangers that will break if you don’t squeeze the electrical connector releases correctly

Not to hijack this thread but what is the purpose of and benefit to the steam line conversion kit. I've not seen this upgrade talked about here before.

it stops the air pockets that the stock system creates, makes refilling the coolant easy, no big deal to add the coolant, coolant system more efficient !!!!

also add a longer piece of vacuum hose to the small vacuum hose for the back of intake, makes install much easier !!!

This is some great info, and I really appreciate it. So far it looks like the following items would be in order:

1. Steam line conversion
2. Throttle body coolant bypass
3. Upgrade to 2004 PCV
4. Clean the bejeezus out of the intake manifold
5. Extend the vacuum line for easier connectivity
6. Relocate oil pressure sender
7. New intake manifold gaskets

That's a lot to take in, but I think I can handle it. Still have a few questions. With the Steam line conversion, would that make it so you can swap on an LS6 intake without flattening the ridges on the underside of the manifold? And with the upgrade to the 2004 PCV system, anyone have a link to a comprehensive guide for that one? I'm just not familiar with it at all. Really the steam line and PCV systems are the only things I'm a little iffy on. The other items I got, no prob.

Yes the main reason I did mine, then found out it's just a better system than stock, now do it to all my vettes !!!!!

this is fairly easy the line from the valley cover with the pcv valve goes to the intake rear of TB, the right valve cover line goes to the TB, plug the drivers side valve cover.

I have a catch can so the pic is the best I can provide !!!

Replace the passenger side AIR system check valve. It is only accessible with the intake off. The check valves are known to stick shut and toss a code. There is one on the driver's side as well but that is out in the open.

Throttle body gasket GM 12552542
Valley cover with gasket GM 12577927
PCV pigtail GM 12594779
Left Valve cover plug 12568011

Coolant crossover line 12602544
Crossover plugs (2) 12602540

Ok, I think I got a grasp on all this stuff, lol. I see the red line from the passenger valve cover to the TB. And theres a red line from your valley cover to the catch can, and then catch can to intake?

As for the steam vents, I think I figured that out... basically the kit ties together all four vents in the cylinder heads and then routes to the radiator. Is your steam line the red one on the radiator, just next to where the black radiator hose connects on the drivers side of the radiator?

Sorry for playing 20 questions, lol. I'm new to the platform, but I think I'm picking it up quick.

Also, thanks K24556 for all the part numbers. That's awesome

there will be an endless debate over routing. from the “”steam” connections at the back of dash head. They are blocked off on the LS6 and 2, so GM does not think them necessary. Those connections represent a high point vent for the cooling jacket. I think the reason you can safely block them (not the front,though) is that the engine tilts to the back slightly, so as a high point, the nod goes to the front two vents

My experience is I blocked them off on a Y2K C5 FRC, tracked the car hard for over 12 years, sold it to another person in ‘17, and he has continued the pounding. Never had a cooling issue, 395 RWHP, ran advanced/instructor at various tracks. It still has the stock radiator. Keeping it clean is #1

Once you go to the valley new cover, adding a catch can is much easier. Not needed for street so much, but on tracks with lots of lefts will fill the RT rocker cover with oil that can’t drain back to the crankcase fast enough, so on courses like VIR Patriot, the CC will fill quickly. . A big left high speed sweeper turn is the worst. Then, that nipple on the passenger VC in drowning in oil. A little crankcase pressure (normal blow-by), and the oil either ends up in a catch can, or the intake.

many who had #7 cyl fried might tend to disagree ????

I can’t speak for others about not enough cooling, and whether #7 going caused by an inadequate radiator. I’ve owned C5’s since 2000, and don’t recall many #7 failures until the C6Z came along. The C6”s ls7’s and later ls3’s #7 different story. Most of them dropped a valve first.

The 2004 PCV system was the best version available on the C5, but unfortunately the new valley cover won't drop into your 2000 (or my '99) LS1 block without grinding on it first. The 2004 PCV upgrade is plug-and-play for the '01-'03 LS1/LS6 guys since they all have the LS6 block.

Here's more info on the conversion: 2004 PCV on LS1 block

HTH

for the tube that comes off the crossover, where does it go? Is it under pressure?

thanks, Clint

Oh dang, thank you a ton for linking that guide. That is super helpful, I appreciate it.

In addition to relocating the oil pressure sender, consider adding an under hood mechanical pressure gauge on a "T" with the sender unit. When the new sender dies you will know whether the engine actually has oil pressure and of course changing the sender is a short job.




Rather than just replace the auxiliary air check valve, consider relocating it to a location where it is easily changed:

No problem. I just realized that guide uses the '01-'03 valley cover, rather than the '04. However, the key point is that the LS1 blocks need some grinding to make either of the new valley covers fit.