The trac control light and abs are on and I checked codes.
c1232, 1233,1248,1283 were only codes.

i replaced the battery, it was 9 years old, I replaced both front wheel speed sensors wiring harnesses ( came with the car)
cleared the codes and when I restart all looks good.
drive around the block and all codes and lights are back.
2002 coupe with 26k miles. Any ideas how to troubleshoot?

 

I have now checked and cleaned all grounds, checked every wiring connection I could find and still no resolution.
read every thread I could find on here. Now at my whits end???????? Any advice out there at all?

also service vehicle soon is now displayed

 

Which harnesses did you replace ??...just both short harnesses ??...I would disconnect the harness connector at both ends (EBCM and WSS) and check for an intermittent open or short to ground using the "wiggle test"....then remove the connector at the WSS and see what you're seeing with a DVOM on both wires key on...the 1232/1233 are more of an electrical issue (an open, short to ground or voltage) than a speed sensor one...the 1248 set because of the 1232/1233 setting !!

 

I’ll give that a try, thanks

 

Sorry, yes both short harnesses at the wheels

 

OK !!...you still have the rest of the harness up to the EBCM to check !!

 

Just throwing this out there. If all else fails, you may need to clean or replace you ignition switch. It was the cause for a lot of strange and seemingly unrelated codes on my 03 vert.

 

Thanks and tour right, the HVAC didn’t work and I was getting several other codes but when I replace the ignition switch everything went away minus these codes. Good insight

 

Ok folks
i unhooked the WS at the wheels and checked the wiring between there and EBCM for short to ground, wiggles all connections even unplugged and plugged back in connections and no issue. I hooked the EBCM back up, Unhooked the harness at WS turned on ignition and have 3.98 volts On one wire and .02 on the other on left front and 4.0 and .02 on the right front.
based on what I have been told this far this is all as expected.
ANY guidance on what’s next?

 

3.98 and 4.0 volts are NOT what you should be seeing across both WSS wires !!!...There is a 5 volt bias on the signal wire (that bias voltage is how the PCM detects that you have a wiring issue) and the other wire is a low ref (ground)...you should be reading 5 volts with sensor unplugged key ON and reading across both WSS wires with DVOM if you have no opens or shorts to ground and this basically says that BOTH signal and ground are OK......if not 5 volts test the signal wire with red voltmeter lead and negative lead of voltmeter to a GOOD ground...do you see 5 volts now ???...if so your ground is bad !!...what you NEED to do is check the signal wire AT the EBCM and see if you have 5 volts there...if you DO you have an issue in the wiring from the EBCM to the harness connector. I would check for that bias voltage at the sensor harness closest to the WSS then check for same at the short harness at the frame rail and see where the 5 volts may be getting dragged down...how exactly did you check for a "short to ground" ?????...to check that ground wire hook 12 volt test light to battery POSITIVE and touch the tip to the WSS low ref. ground wire...test light should be BRIGHT !!!...pictured is reading my signal wire and black DVOM to a c

lean ground...as you can see 5 volts !!!

 

I will unplug ebcm, key on and see what I have there on WS pins. I rechecked the voltage and it is as explained before at the WS end of harness. Checked across both pins and removed black and grabbed a good ground, same result.

 

If you checked the way I show in the picture and you don't have 5 volts you have to go upstream and see where you are dropping that voltage...if you have 5 volts at EBCM start checking the signal wire !!...make sure ref. ground is good going back to the EBCM !!...HOW did you check for a short to ground ??????...BTW, I would leave the EBCM harness connected and back probe the signal wire with key ON...do you have a T pin or similar to back probe ??

 

Look at EACH WSS Female Pin connectors. The female pins in those connectors spread apart and that's where you get the bad readings. The connector that is attached to the frame is where there can be an unseen issue. (That's where the replacement jumper harness plugged into!) You should do a pin PUSH PULL test on any of the female pins. If the male test pin has little to no PUSH /PULL force resistance when the male pin is inserted and extracted in the female pins, there's your issue.

Fix or replace the pins.

Bill

 

Used an ohms meter to check the wiring by unplugging at ebcm and WS and checking the appropriate pins to ground. Also checked for resistance from pins in harness at both ends. WiggleD and moved wiring and connectors To be sure it was not a loose connection. Wiring checked good.

I have a pin to check voltage at ebcm with everything connected so I will go out and check that to see what voltage I have there.

 

With key on and everything connected I checked the voltage at the EBCM through the back of the lsensor pins and the voltage is 3.8 and 4.0. Ran an additional ground to the ground on the module ground but no change.

have checked all body grounds , loosened cleaned and retightned.

cleared codes, started car and soon as I pulled down the street lights came back on and when I checked codes they all returned.

 

The 5 volt bias isn't required for the WSS sensors to work but only used by the PCM in monitoring the bias voltage for setting the DTC...I would remove the EBCM harness connector and check the pins for corrosion if you haven't already !!...you back probe the harness side but the EBCM side may be OK...have you load tested the WSS low ref. wire with a 12 volt test light ??...let me look at my FSM when I get home later to see what the conditions are for setting the DTC !!….how did you check for a short to ground ??...well, BOTH ends of that circuit (EBCM harness and WSS wiring) are disconnected and isolated and using OHM function one lead goes to the signal or ground at either end and you should see on your ohm meter is 0 or OL...anything reading other than this is a short to ground !!...do me a favor...back probe the steering wheel position sensor 5 volt ref. on the EBCM which is a on pin 27...a gray wire...see if you have 5 volts there ????

 

Yes I have 5 volts on SWP pin . Checked wiring for short as you described. I have not checked wheel sensors with test light as described. I have set of manuals as well and have been studying them to see what else I may be missing. Any insight would be appreciated.... and is!!!

i am beginning to wonder if it’s an issue with connection inside the EBCM?

I checked all of the pins and the harness connector and all looks ok. Clean and nothing bent or gaped open.

guess it could be both wheel sensors gone bad but that seems unlikely. Have been trying to follow troubleshooting in manuals but have not come to a section on how to test the wheel sensors themselves.

when I purchased car it had these and several other codes but TS les me to replace ignition switch and that corrected everything else.

I appreciate all of the input and guidance. Don’t want to just replace parts as I am learning much as we go here. Very very helpful advise thus far!!!!

 

The DTC you have is a "wiring" one so I don't think it is a WSS issue...you can use an ohm meter and read across the 2 WSS wires....should be 850-1350 ohms. If you spin the wheel hub hooked up to the 2 WSS wires you should see about 1 volt AC...not DC !!...when I spin my cars hub fast I can read about 1 volt !!...I haven't looked at an EBCM in a while but I believe it has 2 harness connectors...is it a 6 wire connector and the other a 20 ??...if so the 6 wire connector is your power and ground basically so remove the 20 wire harness connector and see if you see 5 volts on pins 11 (light blue) and 10 which is a dark green ??...to TS this issue I'd have my scope hooked up to both WSS wires and reading AC volts I'd monitor that voltage going down the road and see when it drops out...I know it's way less than 1 second...you won't be able to see this with a DVOM...it's refresh rate is to slow...my scope takes millions of voltage samples every second so you will see the tiniest drop in voltage !!

 

It’s a single connector with a 29 small pin section and a 7 larger pin section that has the power and ground.
I will jack it up and check the WSS on each wheel as described by spinning and looking for AC voltage

 

Do not have a scope or scan tool