High Coolant Temps
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
Yeah, My a/c doesn't work, when you push the button it goes off, I give up figuring it out, but when I changed out the water pump, I noticed the compressor freely spins, but the part right at the beginning of the belt seems like it was very loose. Do you know if the front of the compressor is supposed to be loose, its like separate from the free spinning part? I thought it was going to come off.
Last edited by corvet786c; Jul 6, 2020 at 07:44 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
I just know the a/c light would blink since your thermostat may not be working as it should . As for the a/c compressor it’s self I’ve never had mine out never fiddled around with it during the time I was rebuilding I just know there is a separate belt . Maybe you have some bolts loose and it’s a pain to access it from the top maybe it’s easier underneath the vehicle to inspect it I would start by replacing the that thermostat and see where that got me it’s easy enough and it could solve your issue not saying it will but it could.
If it were loose I would almost think the compressor bearings are wore and the unit should be taken off rebuilt or replaced or deleted .
If it were loose I would almost think the compressor bearings are wore and the unit should be taken off rebuilt or replaced or deleted .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 6, 2020 at 07:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
I just know the a/c light would blink since your thermostat may not be working as it should . As for the a/c compressor it’s self I’ve never had mine out never fiddled around with it during the time I was rebuilding I just know there is a separate belt . Maybe you have some bolts loose and it’s a pain to access it from the top maybe it’s easier underneath the vehicle to inspect it I would start by replacing the that thermostat and see where that got me it’s easy enough and it could solve your issue not saying it will but it could.
If it were loose I would almost think the compressor bearings are wore and the unit should be taken off rebuilt or replaced or deleted .
If it were loose I would almost think the compressor bearings are wore and the unit should be taken off rebuilt or replaced or deleted .
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
wow that's really hot, yeah, if felt the same way. I just need to take mine on the hwy and see how it cools down, that will better help whats going on inside. Yeah replace, its not a hard job just time comsuming, take 1 step at a time.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
but then again I had some vacuum leaks going on I never attended before the clutch install. Will see later now that it’s solved but yeah I saw 260 and I was freaked. I will use a PRW water pump high performance same thing with thermostat and radiator all high performance stuff .! Reflush and not try to run full dexcool unmixed ya in the colder climates I guess it was ok not out here .
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
but then again I had some vacuum leaks going on I never attended before the clutch install. Will see later now that it’s solved but yeah I saw 260 and I was freaked. I will use a PRW water pump high performance same thing with thermostat and radiator all high performance stuff .! Reflush and not try to run full dexcool unmixed ya in the colder climates I guess it was ok not out here .
I don't all the requirements, cleaned the radiator blew out all the garbage, and it still seems to crep up fast.
Last edited by corvet786c; Jul 10, 2020 at 10:19 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,251
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix Arizona
YOU HAVE HAD GOOD ADVICE FROM A COUPLE SMART FORUM MEMBERS. IT IS TRAPPED AIR. KEEP DOING THE PROCEDURE EVENTUALLY IT WILL COME OUT.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
They just run hot in extreme hot weather climates where o2 is less dense driving the car at different times of the day bring in different temps . Air would have been pushed off a hose or line when it got that that hot since when is it good advice to heat up a car then unhook a radiant steam vent ? Your looking to get face burnt . Not good I’m telling you any idiot can read a label that clearly says don’t open hot . Purge the air the right way by over filling it will purge it self at the tank that’s why the tank is pressurized to begin with it’s like OMG People really you should stay away from a engine and put yourself into a relearn sequence lol .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 12, 2020 at 03:00 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 14,137
Likes: 2,984
From: Iowa
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
They just run hot in extreme hot weather climates where o2 is less dense driving the car at different times of the day bring in different temps . Air would have been pushed off a hose or line when it got that that hot since when is it good advice to heat up a car then unhook a radiant steam vent ? Your looking to get face burnt . Not good I’m telling you any idiot can read a label that clearly says don’t open hot . Purge the air the right way by over filling it will purge it self at the tank that’s why the tank is pressurized to begin with it’s like OMG People really you should stay away from a engine and put yourself into a relearn sequence lol .
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the draincock.
5) Open the radiator draincock.
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator draincock. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator draincock to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15) Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 682
Likes: 276
From: Cincinnati Ohio
If you think you have the correct coolant fill with air purged from your system and you have the air side cleaned of debris and your fans are working correctly, there is only one place left to look; the coolant side of the system. Back in the copper/brass radiator days, it was common for radiator tubes to plug up over time and use. There actually used to be radiator shops that would take off the radiator tank and rod out the tubes. I remember having a 1972 Celica and I could put my hand over sections of the radiator and they were cool to the touch because the tubes were plugged. With aluminum radiators and long life coolants, plugging the radiator tubes should not be a problem. Without knowing the service history of your car I can only speculate that perhaps you have radiator tubes plugged with corrosion.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
per the instructions in the 3 maintenance big books, heat the car to 210 degrees then take off the cap. I've personally done this and no explosion of radiator fluid came out, not a drop actually.
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the draincock.
5) Open the radiator draincock.
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator draincock. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator draincock to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15) Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the draincock.
5) Open the radiator draincock.
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator draincock. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator draincock to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15) Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.
Last edited by corvet786c; Jul 12, 2020 at 08:52 PM.
Acct Suspended APR 2026 by request
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,367
Likes: 1,272
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
do you have a top radiator cover with your supercharger setup?... I have seen some people leave those off and have high coolant temps because air will travel over the radiator instead of through it... if you do have a top cover then you might try making some panels to box in the radiator so air has to go through it and seal off any areas where air could easily escape... what about the lower air dam, is it still there?... what were the coolant temps on the high end before you switched pumps and what temps are your fans set to come on?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
do you have a top radiator cover with your supercharger setup?... I have seen some people leave those off and have high coolant temps because air will travel over the radiator instead of through it... if you do have a top cover then you might try making some panels to box in the radiator so air has to go through it and seal off any areas where air could easily escape... what about the lower air dam, is it still there?... what were the coolant temps on the high end before you switched pumps and what temps are your fans set to come on?
I guess I could try to use some of that coil cleaner for a/c units.
Also not sure if hoses should collapse or not, before they did now they don't, but I read that collapse hoses indicate a bad radiator cap??? I did replace the cap.
I know my temps aren't that bad but just wanted to make sure their were no issues, if anyone can help point them out Thanks Chris.
Last edited by corvet786c; Jul 12, 2020 at 09:36 PM.