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Ebcm issues after doing plugs. Any input?

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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 08:39 AM
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Default Ebcm issues after doing plugs. Any input?

After I changed my plugs on my 98 a4 the traction, active handling and abs light and warnings came on. That tells me the ebcm most likely. Is there anything connected to it around the plugs and wires that I could have hit with my hands?
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 01:44 PM
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I wouldn't think so.

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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 03:38 AM
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Anyone?? I saw a post from years back that someone had the same issue. One of his plug wires wasn't fully engaged and the electrical somehow tripped the ebcm. I checked all of mine again but nothing. I just find it very coincidental that it happens the second I change my plugs and wires
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 06:18 AM
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Definitely no direct connection to your plug change. It seems unlikely you knocked the EBCM connector or anything but I suggest checking the connector and you must start by checking your grounds. You can also go ahead and pull codes from your DIC for the TCS/ABS and it may well guide us.

I'd disconnect your battery then unplug the EBCM connector and see if the contacts look dirty or in any way bad. I just checked and cleaned mine two days ago and they looked reasonable but I sprayed a lot of contact cleaner on the plug side and a lot of grimey dirt flowed out. Some people have had good results just by taking the connector on and off a few times- it must clean up the contacts a little.

Next check your ground points. The one on the frame to the back of the drivers side headlight (including inside it's splice pack) and there is a splice pack behind the battery (it is one not grounded to the frame but I believe it has a connection to the the function of the EBCM). Also check the grounds to frame that should be visible near the front of the battery on the frame.This may have been knocked I guess during a spark plug change. If your grounds and splice packs have not ever been cleaned up this is a MUST for the cars electrics generally. The other most likely bad ground and splice pack to the back of the passengers side headlight, on the frame. While this one may well be bad, I don't think it has EBCM involvement, but do it too.

Beware that the frame/body stud that grounds connect to may snap when you try to undo the 10mm bolt. I found this unavoidable on a couple of them regardless of how much penetrating oil was used for hours and days before! If one snaps just clean paint from the frame and drill a hole in the frame for a self tapping screw. Above all, make sure you've good grounds.

You can also disconnect and clean the ground contact bolted to the very back of the ebcm/brake pressure unit and check inside it's grey connector.

Last edited by silver50; Aug 17, 2020 at 06:25 AM.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by silver50
Definitely no direct connection to your plug change. It seems unlikely you knocked the EBCM connector or anything but I suggest checking the connector and you must start by checking your grounds. You can also go ahead and pull codes from your DIC for the TCS/ABS and it may well guide us.

I'd disconnect your battery then unplug the EBCM connector and see if the contacts look dirty or in any way bad. I just checked and cleaned mine two days ago and they looked reasonable but I sprayed a lot of contact cleaner on the plug side and a lot of grimey dirt flowed out. Some people have had good results just by taking the connector on and off a few times- it must clean up the contacts a little.

Next check your ground points. The one on the frame to the back of the drivers side headlight (including inside it's splice pack) and there is a splice pack behind the battery (it is one not grounded to the frame but I believe it has a connection to the the function of the EBCM). Also check the grounds to frame that should be visible near the front of the battery on the frame.This may have been knocked I guess during a spark plug change. If your grounds and splice packs have not ever been cleaned up this is a MUST for the cars electrics generally. The other most likely bad ground and splice pack to the back of the passengers side headlight, on the frame. While this one may well be bad, I don't think it has EBCM involvement, but do it too.

Beware that the frame/body stud that grounds connect to may snap when you try to undo the 10mm bolt. I found this unavoidable on a couple of them regardless of how much penetrating oil was used for hours and days before! If one snaps just clean paint from the frame and drill a hole in the frame for a self tapping screw. Above all, make sure you've good grounds.

You can also disconnect and clean the ground contact bolted to the very back of the ebcm/brake pressure unit and check inside it's grey connector.
Great info! I disconnected the connector behind the driver light at the ground and it looked fine so far. The others I didn't check because I didn't know about then. Such as the ones around the battery
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 07:41 AM
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Here are info on some of the groundpoints and spliceconnectors in engine room.
As the first photo illustrate , it's good advice to inspect splicepoint connectors in additions to the ground point and inspect/ clean








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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by oelarse
Here are info on some of the groundpoints and spliceconnectors in engine room.
As the first photo illustrate , it's good advice to inspect splicepoint connectors in additions to the ground point and inspect/ clean







Thanks!very helpful. I'll check in a bit. Like I said and not trying to be repetitive but it's too coincidental that once i finished the plugs, the lights came on. I can't check on the dash because my dic doesn't work.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 09:14 AM
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My passenger front splice pack. It was by far the worst one.



I found very small flat head screwdrivers best to hold tabs up to then withdraw pins. This splice pack was behind rear RH (inside of the two) tail lamp


The splice pack not shown above that I advise checking (because to the best of my knowledge it does have some relationship to the EBCM) was to be found on my ‘99 by removing the battery and battery tray. It’s a non bolted to chassis one.


The splice packs with cream/white caps are ones that don’t bolt to frame. Dark grey capped ones bolt to frame

Last edited by silver50; Aug 17, 2020 at 09:25 AM.
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